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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 5:41 pm 
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Hey Fellas,

Ive had an ongoing prob over the last couple of months with my drivers side CV pulling out from the diff. It will pull out on full droop, but not always? :roll:

I know the issue, too much droop and that wicked CV angle. The thing is the droop really helps out on the rutted stuff and I know not to sink the boot in when all flexed up and I am yet to brake a CV over the 10 odd months of wheeling.

Am I able to maybe pull the CV and install a bigger, stronger circlip on the CV shaft? Or is there anyone about with a solution without removing my goodies.

Or is it going to be a case of removing either the 40mm extended struts or the 50mm? extended calmini strut spacers? Which would you think would be best?

My setup is Calmini 3" Calmini Strut Spacers AND Ironman 40mm Extended Struts 8O

All input appreciated, feel free to toss ideas around. PS I would love your opinion Gwagon as I have heard you speak of this issue before.

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....waiting for the "FARK LOOK AT THE POOR CV!"

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 5:52 pm 
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If its pulling out then youve got too much droop. If you get a stronger circlip then your cv will become your droop limiting factor and you will then pull the other side out. Or you will start breaking cvs or housings n shit.

You need to control that hektik droop haha.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 5:58 pm 
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you need the bomb proof diff mod aka bolt in RHS cv.

there is a thread in goodtech.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 6:47 pm 
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I was thinking that Atari. But isn't the stub shaft still only set in the diff via the clip?
Or would the added length outward stop the shaft popping out?

I will look into that.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 6:50 pm 
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my stub axle is a snug fit on the bearing so i guess it's got a bit more staying power than the cut & shut CV stub + bush option.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:09 pm 
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How u havent broken a cv is amazing
U could take out the spacer and do a strut flip
Might reduce it enough

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:49 pm 
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http://outdoorauto4x4.com/p/650155/16l- ... kets-.html

Just thought it might be a good idea, I'm not a vitara man myself but that'd help a bit with the CV angle... Bloody ifs cars

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:50 pm 
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lockie the calmini kit has diff drop brackets already. :wink:

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:52 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
lockie the calmini kit has diff drop brackets already. :wink:

:lol: well you can tell I'm not a vitara man, get rid of the strut spacers. What are you trying to achieve with the car?

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:02 pm 
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double diff drop brackets? =)

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:08 pm 
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I've often thought about limiting straps in the front, just to take the load away from the struts topping out at full droop.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:09 pm 
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Hahaha. The diff is already rested on the crossmember.

Lockie the car has been setup this way for over 12 months and the suspension works just how I want it too. The front flexes/droops awesome but only recently has it acquired the talent of popping the CV out.

Im thinking I'll go down the bolt in CV mod and see how she goes from there.

Thanks for all the advice so far. This has reinforced my thinking towards the bolt in cv.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:15 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
I've often thought about limiting straps in the front, just to take the load away from the struts topping out at full droop.



I too have put some thought into this but there is no practical way of doing it from what I'd been thinking. I'm hoping this stub shaft mod will give me that Lil extra length to take the pull off the cv.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 8:34 pm 
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i don't know if its possible or not, but would some sort of uni joint setup work rather than a CV? (im assuming there would be a lot of fab involved though).

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 4:16 am 
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Joe was looking at it but u need a slip joint
If u can find some straps with long bolt at one end then u can just drill a hole next to the strut mount ob the tower
Then just weld a wedge on the arm to bolt to
I was looking at makeing some with a eye bolt but my sewing machine isnt set up yet

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 4:16 am 
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Dose ur pionion touch ur sump
If not make longer diff brackets
Mine just touches every now and again
A mate in out club lifted his motor up 20mm to get more drop in his diff
I dont know how but he runsa alloy diff with air locker and 33 and used to be supercharged
Its been this way for over 10 years and reconds he hasnt snaped a cv since he stoped comping it like 7 years ago

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 6:56 am 
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I have the same problem with a 3" lift kit in 96 swb vitara. Cv angle is severe and although hasn't popped out or broken....yet. It does some nasty clicking noises when front end flexes up. I have spoken to manufacturer of the lift kit and they are sending me another set of front springs a little shorter to combat this drama. Although the suspension is awesome and I don't want to lose any height, I also don't wish to break a cv!
We have the above mentioned diff drop brackets installed as well and we still have the dreaded cv angle thing goin on!!

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:13 am 
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Its strut lenght thats the problem not springs
The cv is fine running at a angle
Its only when u lift a wheel and the strut is to long that the angle becomes to much and the cv binds
Also it could be the calmini arms causing this a bit to.
I think they are a little wider to correct track with after lift but the cv is the same length still so it pulls out a bit

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:27 am 
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My diff is as low as she will go. It is resting on the cross member! The angle of the cv doesn't worry me as this set of cv's is yet to even start clicking.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:36 am 
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I reckon the circlip will likely be stuffed, they not real strong,
start with a new one and see what happens.
Mine only came out a few millimeters before it got stopped, so wasn't causing any dramas.

I replaced with 2nd hand ones 3 times before I got one to stay put.
I should have got a new one.

But a stubby shaft is worth doing anyway.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:38 am 
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Or some people leave out the clip on the outer cv, giving a bit more give,
and makes changing a cv easier.

?Not tried this myself, would need some proper thinking first

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:50 am 
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^^^ BAD idea, that will let crap into the back of the knuckle & stuff bearings etc.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 1:20 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
^^^ BAD idea, that will let crap into the back of the knuckle & stuff bearings etc.

good point, I knew there'd be a reason not to

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:12 pm 
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Worse than that, the CV can actually come right out of the hub - this is the problem I had on the drive over to Coffin.

Lose the spacers. Getting a wheel down in ruts is nice, but no use if there's no drive going to it. You'd lose that travel with limiting straps anyway, and you regain 50mm of uptravel so the other side can compress, sitting the chassis lower and therefore allowing the low wheel closer to the ground.

That's how I'm justifying it, anyway ;)

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Post Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 8:01 am 
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Well I had it apart last night and fitted a heavier gauge retaining clip on the inner shaft. I doubt it will hold on though.

If not its bye bye to the cal strut spacers.

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