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rick1970
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:39 pm Posts: 303 Location: Dungowan
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 Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 5:08 am |
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Any tips on making a fuel tank? What matirial? Thichness? Design tips?
Thinking about a sub tank for the LWB Sierra, and maybe a couple of sill tanks for the Rangie.
I have access to a gulitone and folder at work so may as well make some use of it
Cheers
Rick
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Dr_Snapid
Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 11:57 am Posts: 649 Location: Grafton
Vehicle: 2003 Jimny Auto
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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 6:16 am |
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I'd love a set of sill tanks for my jimny
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want33s
az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8134 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 6:30 am |
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Most factory tanks are about 0.8mm thick black steel which is then zinced but they have allsorts of corrugations for extra strength.
Aftermarket tanks are just flat sheet so need to be a bit thicker EG 1.6 - 1.8mm.
Work hard on the design so you can have as many folds and as few welded seams as possible.
I'd be incorporating a swirl pot and baffles if making a tank from scratch, but a sub tank doesn't really need them.
Not sure where you'd get the fittings for sender unit etc.. Maybe chop up an old tank... CAREFULLY.
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Fatzook
az supporter
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:30 pm Posts: 14977 Location: The Hills
Vehicle: Vitara, NGV
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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 12:18 pm |
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want33s wrote:
Not sure where you'd get the fittings for sender unit etc.. Maybe chop up an old tank... CAREFULLY.
Buy aftermarket. Autometer sell senders with guages to suit.
_________________
2013 GV
1998 SV420 ute
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2stroker
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 2689 Location: North Brisbane
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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 12:59 pm |
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Fatzook wrote: want33s wrote:
Not sure where you'd get the fittings for sender unit etc.. Maybe chop up an old tank... CAREFULLY.
Buy aftermarket. Autometer sell senders with guages to suit. Most of the boat shops like Bias Boating, Whitworth etc. sell neat looking fuel gauges want the senders are designed for varying depth aftermarket application
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jonfromhamilton
Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2011 2:11 pm Posts: 410 Location: Pakenham
Vehicle: SJ51T
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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 5:57 pm |
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I have this on my to-do list as my factory one is all beat up now. I was going to combine a bash guard and larger tank into one. ie, make the bottom plate thicker so it is dent-resistant. I have a 2" body lift so was going to make the tank higher aswell to extend the capacity. Be my guest on stealing my ideas so I can copy you 
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rick1970
Joined: Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:39 pm Posts: 303 Location: Dungowan
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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 4:06 am |
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want33s wrote: Most factory tanks are about 0.8mm thick black steel which is then zinced but they have allsorts of corrugations for extra strength.
Aftermarket tanks are just flat sheet so need to be a bit thicker EG 1.6 - 1.8mm.
Work hard on the design so you can have as many folds and as few welded seams as possible.
I'd be incorporating a swirl pot and baffles if making a tank from scratch, but a sub tank doesn't really need them.
Not sure where you'd get the fittings for sender unit etc.. Maybe chop up an old tank... CAREFULLY. There is a plater in town, not sure if he does zinc but cad plates. Will has to sus this out. Baffles in the Rangie sill tanks maybe, as they will be long and skinny. Sierra..... don't know. Subs would feed into the main with lecky fuel pumps, so wasn't going for swirl pots or guages. Make the subs smaller than the main tank. As for design, was thinking two 'U' shaped halves welded together, is you get what i meen.
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nick_bj40
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2009 11:30 pm Posts: 114 Location: wollongong
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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:26 am |
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U shaped halves sounds the goods best would be if you could press all four sides from the base this would be ideal but u would need a specific press or folder.. as for material stainless is best don't need any coatings that will eventually deteriorate as for thickness go for 2mm plus would be plenty strong and easier to weld
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want33s
az supporter
Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:30 pm Posts: 8134 Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 6:03 am |
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Fatzook wrote: want33s wrote:
Not sure where you'd get the fittings for sender unit etc.. Maybe chop up an old tank... CAREFULLY.
Buy aftermarket. Autometer sell senders with guages to suit. I didn't mean the sender or the gauge.... I meant the flange bit the sender screws into.
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ajsr
az supporter
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:30 pm Posts: 3712 Location: melb
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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 6:37 am |
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nick_bj40 wrote: U shaped halves sounds the goods best would be if you could press all four sides from the base this would be ideal but u would need a specific press or folder.. as for material stainless is best don't need any coatings that will eventually deteriorate as for thickness go for 2mm plus would be plenty strong and easier to weld stainless can work harden and crack around the welds , particularly the mounting tabs most aftermarket tanks are made from aluminium coated mild steel apparently zinc/gal sheet reacts with fuels, but Ive never seen it????? the feruls/sockets for outlets, plugs etc can usually be had from bearing wholesale etc
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Hybrid
az supporter
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2008 11:30 pm Posts: 1095 Location: Bulimba, Brisbane
Vehicle: '92 Sierra
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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 12:41 pm |
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want33s wrote:
I didn't mean the sender or the gauge.... I meant the flange bit the sender screws into.
This is what I did. I bought a VS commodore tank off ebay and took the mounting flange, swirl pot, in tank pump, sender etc and fitted to my long ranger. The VT ones look to have a good top mount one where the pump, sender and swirl pot unbolt as one. The top mount idea is a bit of a pain though. The mounting flange came out after drilling just 4 spot welds.
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