[tanshi]

acutally no, forget it, not worth the time to respond

[Fatzook]

hey mate.

Just keep plugging away at it. Start with the basics ( tyres, lift etc) and see what works. If budget is of no concern, you will find a way to get your jimny to keep up with modified patrols. This may forfeit your road going abilities though, so just don't confuse what is possible, with what is legal.

[bigdogdazza]

Fatzook wrote:

hey mate.

Just keep plugging away at it. Start with the basics ( tyres, lift etc) and see what works. If budget is of no concern, you will find a way to get your jimny to keep up with modified patrols. This may forfeit your road going abilities though, so just don't confuse what is possible, with what is legal.

Thanks bud and I have been doing just that over the past couple of months, and yes I have spent a fortune so far... But so what? Makes me happy! As for road going and legal I think I lost that with the lift and tyres but it's not outrageous so hopefully won't attract unwanted attention, he'll I bet mine ain't the only one that's a bit high or tyres are a little big etc.

[3cyl]

Seems this thread is getting all "outers" already. Now I'm not one to bag Jimnys, in fact I like to see them modded and standing up to the big trolls. As I said I have only wheeled with Bugsta in a bigger Jimny and if you PM him he can maybe tell you a thing or 2 about details of driveline carnage. I do wheel with patrols a bit and in gulley wheeling in rocky tight stuff I find I have the edge (on 7.50/16s) but on long straight hills with logs or steps or deep water, I know my limitations. That's why I suggested to keep the height down.

[3cyl]

Oh and the most effecive thing to improve any vehicle is driver skill, cheapest improvement and something some bigger truck drivers don't seem to understand.

[speedyblue]

bigdogdazza wrote:

Jimny MUST out wheel or at least keep up with pootrol!

I have nothing against modding your car so you can explore more tracks, or drive to the cape etc. These things are fun and that is why people have 4wd's.

Modding your car because someone elses is better and you want to beat them = pissing contest.

Do it because you enjoy it not because you are competing.

[atari4x4]

3cyl wrote:

Oh and the most effecive thing to improve any vehicle is driver skill, cheapest improvement and something some bigger truck drivers don't seem to understand.

Quoted for truth!!!

It definitely sounds like a pissing contest to me, personally I'd be putting lockers at the top of that list, along with the cromo cv's & upgraded axles.

[bigdogdazza]

Ok as for lockers there are many options such as china lockers, Arb, auto lockers etc, I have read threads on here that guys have been quoted up to and over $4k for both ARB and I think that's a bit excessive but no doubt they are the best...but would it be worthwhile going down the cheaper path or is it just throwing money away? I can afford Arb but will have to save a little and wait a while or grab cheaper version and fit now?
As for chromoly cv,s and hardened axles where can one purchase these? Jimnybits has a blog about making stronger cv,s but I think it's still in the cant get them yet stage?

[31zook]

CVs are hard to come by, I'm currently in the middle of sorting out my chromo set, and a few other boys on here also. I'm getting Sierra Chromoly CVs from the states and HyTuff axles made in QLD. expensive, but hopfully I don't have to pull my front end apart again to replace another CV.

Gearing, your best bet is to go to 'jimnybits' from the UK and get a Sierra Tcase swap kit, this will give you a heap more gearing options, to tune what you want to do.

Suspension wise, it's a pretty dry area, not allot of progress with decent wheel travel. Some remove bolts from one radius arm and others run big lifts and allot of uptravel. I'm not really sure why the go is here as I havn't done much with stock arms.

Lockers, ARB AirLockers are about it, I don't think that I would want to compramise on road with a newish, comfortable car. But then again, if its just a weekend toy, do what you want.

This is my first hand experience. Any other questions I'm happy to help answer. But as you said, one mans pride and joy might be absolute rubbish to the next.

[atari4x4]

you're concerned about the price of lockers... but want to have it engineered & street rego'd on 31's & a 3" lift.

[bigdogdazza]

Cheers guys, I already have the drop radius arms from Jimnybits but running stock rear arms, removing a bolt from one arm??? Wow seems a little out there? What would this achieve? As for the lockers I guess in hindsight Arb would be the go was just thinking if could save a little in this area maybe would better be spent on cv,s and axles, just checked JB they are $730 pound each plus shipping so around $2100 should cover both? Do they come with everything needed minus compressor or have to buy solinoids etc on top? Hard to fit? Or best done by a shop?

[3cyl]

The radius arm bolt removal allows the axle housing to actually articulate. If you think of a radius arm in the articulated state, looking along the axle the bushes in the axle ends must actually be crushed to allow articulation. This is true of all radius arm 3 link type setups, including the front of "trolls, cruisers and even front and rear of Merc. G-wagens.
Edit: not a great idea for road use, affects roll stiffness in a wobbly way.

[zooky08]

How mechanical minded are you. Buy a rd208 (rd88) from lowrange off road. About a grand delivered.
Buy a front rd206 from ARB is about $1195. $290 for compressor. Now instead of a drive in drive out. Yes that may be the best way to do it, but if you wanna save some money pull your third member out of your diff and take them in to ARB. About $190 per locker fitted.
Now just fit the third members and compressor yourself.

[bigdogdazza]

Already have a compressor so just the lockers and bits to operate them are needed and fitting, definitely will be trying it myself it's half the fun!i am sure I seen a locker install thread on here a while ago!??

[monley]

Sorry, but i think your building up the wrong car for this pissing contest. Sell all the good bits and buy a sierra if it's only toy. Only speaking from experience here mate. I should of sold the jimny once i got into driving rock etc.. and brought a sierra like i have done now, which i am building from the ground up

[bigdogdazza]

I hear you but really don't want to sell as I will be giving this car to my son fairly soon, he loves it and has learnt to drive in it so it holds a bit of sentimental value for him as well as I. Also have a swb vitara and a pajero tourer but after son reaches legal driving age I will just buy a GQ shorty and be done with it. Just want to get the most out of the jimny without such stuff as rear steer, hyd suspension etc tuff truck kind of gear it needs to stay on the blacktop as well.

[KEENSY85]

Fatzook wrote:

hey mate.

Just keep plugging away at it. Start with the basics ( tyres, lift etc) and see what works. If budget is of no concern, you will find a way to get your jimny to keep up with modified patrols. This may forfeit your road going abilities though, so just don't confuse what is possible, with what is legal.

X2

[Blakey]

everything you could ever want can be found on zanfi.it

you will need allot of money to buy anything from them.

you will need lockers front and rear or at least just front.
3" suspension lift.
castor correction (preferably in the control arms not the bushes)
you will need stronger Axles and CV's as lockers and 31's on, jimny CV's will break very quick.
you could use some rear shock relocating brackets, it stops the shock hitting the lower spring seat when flexing.
Sierra WT transfer with fitting kit and 6.5 gears. and the other required parts for fitting ie shafts and what not.
wheels if your going 31's get some 15x7 -13. to help you with your extra height.
with 31's you will need to shim your kingpins to stop the death wobble from appearing, or put on a steering damper to mask it. (better to fix the problem then mask it)
some sort of wheel covering for the arches. and wider wheels
ajustable panhards.
you wont nesaserally need an engine change but it could help.

doing that will be a pretty capable jimny. still not the greatest but it should be able to out wheel most others that are heavely modified.

doing some of thoes will require engineering to keep it road legal.

but there is still more things out there if you know where to look and have the money to improve.

the only next best thing is to spend allot of time or pay someone allot of money to set up a 3 or 4 link suspension setup for it. or buy a jeep.

[Maxx13]

bigdogdazza wrote:

I hear you but really don't want to sell as I will be giving this car to my son fairly soon, he loves it and has learnt to drive in it so it holds a bit of sentimental value for him as well as I. Also have a swb vitara and a pajero tourer but after son reaches legal driving age I will just buy a GQ shorty and be done with it. Just want to get the most out of the jimny without such stuff as rear steer, hyd suspension etc tuff truck kind of gear it needs to stay on the blacktop as well.

If you already have a Vitara.... SAS it and put 35's on it, easy

[Matthew]

bigdogdazza wrote:

I hear you but really don't want to sell as I will be giving this car to my son fairly soon.

How soon is soon?
Are you going to have time to drive it before it goes to him?
Is it going to be cop bait?
Most importantly is it going to be safe and handle well for an inexperienced driver?


It's all good and well to say that you want to be build a jimny that can out drive a troll, but to do it and meet your requirements is not feasible. You can call everyone haters all you want, but it doesn't change the fact that you are trying to achieve something unrealistic, something all the haters realise.

[atari4x4]

Matthew wrote:

You can call everyone haters all you want, but it doesn't change the fact that you are trying to achieve something unrealistic, something all the haters realise.

quoted for truth, well said Matthew.

[bigdogdazza]

The car will be going to my son within the next 18months depending if he gets an apprenticeship or not.... No job = no car! With the lift,panhard rods,shock relocation etc it's already on there as I basically bought EVERYTHING Jimnybits has for the jimny except lockers. As for shimming king pins how do I do that? Already have brand new -13 15x7 rims fitted with 31x10.5x15 764 bighorns for the dirt and coopers at3 225x70x15 on stock Sierra rims for the road, gaurd chop and lots bashing been done, rubber flares 60mm fitted covers wheels by 10mm, guess as has been said upgrade cv,s which I have just spoken to Russ @ Jimnybits he is fitting first set with updated axles this week so maybe couple weeks before available to purchase after testing and lockers, also had in depth discussion regarding auto lockers vs air and looks like Arb regardless of cost it the only option to take!??

[-QIK-]

I just put one of these at the top of my list. Infact it is now on its way to my place:

http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?pag ... &Itemid=53

Along with one of these:

http://www.offroad-armory.com/store/ind ... uct_id=424

Im only running 30" treps so the 4.16 gears should suit me fine.

I looked at auto lockers and also air lockers. Im going ARB air lockers. Saves me having heavy steering while in 4wd as you can unlock the front diff. Less wear and tear on drive train as well.

I am yet to look at CV's, but Im sure I will get to that. I guess a persons driving style will also have an effect on how long things will last.

Keep at it, build it for what ever reason you have.

I have a $50,000 D-max in the garage with a number of upgrades etc and Im looking at fitting $3700 worth of air lockers to a $7000 99 model Jimny....... Were is the sense in that? Im doing it because I can and I F*#$kin want them! Also the D-Max was bought for the wife and to tow our quad bikes and camping gear around.

Cheers,

-QIK-

[bigdogdazza]

Lol I for one think you have your priorities exactly right! Why fit air lockers to a $50k+ plus vehicle when all it will do is enable you to get into places that will surely reduce your big buck ride into a scratched, thrashed, dented $15000 vehicle in moments!
My brother has a fairly nice patrol gu and couple weeks after he bought it he went through a mud hole filled with water.....and a submerged log! It proceeded to dent,scrape and make a right mess of his gaurd and 2 doors, now he is getting quotes from panel beaters etc. my jimny on the other hand cost me a great great deal less and yes I have spent bucket loads on it but to me it's still a cheapo car, went on its side a few weeks ago, quarter panel dented and scratched and all I could think of was..... Get a picture for Christ sake! Lol still laugh about it now even though it did scare the pants off me for a moment! Once my jimny is complete to what I think I will be happy with I estimate around 4 times the initial purchase price but... Makes me happy! And I couldn't give a rats butt if I scratch, dent or otherwise!

[bigdogdazza]

Can anyone confirm the full axle armour pack for jimny by offroad armory has diff bracing gussets or are they something else as well as diff cover armour?

[smiffkid]

Twin locked with a decent set of 31s and some good gearing will
Make u keep up with most patrols
Also picking good lines make it look even easier
If u drive sensible u shouldn break a lot
Touch wood since being twin air locked and geared running 31ttc claws at 6 psi or less I haven broken anything. Awesome combination tho.

[bigdogdazza]

Cheers bud I was kind of thinking breakages will be determined a lot by how the car is driven, go slow and have some sympathy is my preferred driving technique so hopefully cv,s may last long enough for me to find and save for chromo gear anyway.

[Dr_Snapid]

bigdogdazza wrote:

Just measured diff clearances
Patrol on 35" bighorns is 270mm to lowest point
Jimny on 31" bighorns is 260mm to lowest point

The narrower track of the jimny means that when in ruts you (often) arent sitting in the bottom of the ruts, because the wheel tracks are usually patrol/cruiser width, you sit a little inward /upward. So in practice the 31s will probably give you more diff clearance than the wider patrol in the majority of siturations where diff clearance is an issue, even though when measuring of flat ground they are 10mm less.

IMHO

Also, there are 31s and there are 31s, differences in width, shape and OD will also make a difference... before you even consider tread pattern/depth

I cant afford lockers but if you can, you should. But when they are engaged consider this: All your engine's torque could theoretically be delivered to just one axle. Your car was designed with axles capable of 1/2 of your engines torque (maximum). So when wheeling with the lockers in, try to drive using less than half your torque (if you can) because once you start putting the foot down it's bye bye CVs

If your brother buys similar mods you simply cannot compete with him. But it shouldnt be about that IMHO. I get bogged more than my mates in their Patrols and Hiluxes and 80s but I have MORE fun than them and do less damage to my car. There are places that I make they cant, too. They respect my car for it's strengths and smile and reach for the strap when it shows its weaknesses

Plus my kids (9 and 11) drive the jimny and have a ball!

Good luck with your jimny, it sounds like a weapon already!

[speedyblue]

I was lead to believe that you are less likely to break axle's and CV's with a locker due to reduced shock loading.

The most likely time you would break an axle is while you are giving it the berries going up a rutted hill. Without a locker when you lift a wheel, the airborn wheel is spinning twice the speed as the other wheel is stationary (assuming you are have diagonal wheels airborn, ground speed = 0). When that wheel comes back down, the shock associated with the fast spinning wheel hitting the not very fast moving ground creates a huge spike in the strain placed on the axle and CV's, especially if you still have your boot into it. Having lockers installed would mean that:
1. The airborn wheel would be travelling the same speed as the grounded wheel.
2. With drive still being generated by the grounded wheel, you should still ahve some ground speed.
So when the airborn wheel comes back down, the wheel speed will closer match the ground speed, so much less shock loading.

[bigdogdazza]

Dr_snapid, love your work bud teaching the youngins to drive! I am all for it and whilst I have had a few comments on giving my son this car once he is of legal age to drive I also have been teaching him to drive since 9yrs old, now 15 goin 16 and having raced karts for a couple years I feel honestly he is more capable than 50% of experienced drivers we have on the roads today. He has raced wheel to wheel at speeds of over 100kph on slicks in pouring rain, experienced 2-3 g,s whilst cornering and honed his reflexes and reaction time to make split second decisions and react a hell of a lot better than your average plod! We wheel a patrol, 80 series, jimny, pajero, and vitara every weekend and he is an accomplished driver of all, both man and auto alike, he is my navigator and also is experienced in all types of recoveries. Teach them young on private property and when they are legal to drive on the road at least you only have to worry about other idiots, not them! I will say it again ... Love your work!