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Post Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 3:49 am 
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Commy parts neer my suzuki ,yuk I don't care what is I don't even wana park next to a Commy ,just in case of small pox and such .its bad enough that I will. e running Coily bump stops

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 3:52 am 
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Yeah...

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 4:57 am 
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KEENSY85 wrote:
Commy parts neer my suzuki ,yuk I don't care what is I don't even wana park next to a Commy ,just in case of small pox and such .its bad enough that I will. e running Coily bump stops

Sorry just being a smartarse commys arnt bad at all in there own right:)

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 12:47 pm 
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Well I learnt today that that is a prick of a spot to take a photo of by yourself...

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:thefinger: for making me go look at my zook 2stroker. :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 7:39 pm 
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Congratulations Jackson your well thought out aftermarket spring and shock combination has gained you 20mm down travel and lost you 40mm up travel.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 8:14 pm 
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Are you just butthurt that someone got past your 500mm limit without wacky shackles or RUF?

I actually I gained 120mm on the stock shocks and lost 25mm (which is hardly a loss because the tyres scrub hard without them) because thats all you need if you get the 81340's ffs.

2stroker wrote:
I guess the difference is that I am happy to listen to well thought out explainations and if it make more sence than what I initially thought then I am happy to have learnt something.


I guess this is just dribble out of your arse.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:08 pm 
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What springs jacko?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:30 pm 
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Jackson read the thread, read what I said, then give yourself an uppercut.

Just for you I will say it again, there is no point in fitting a shock that is longer than 30cm compressed and 50cm extended if you are running standard springs and shackles. See the pics i posted to understand why.

Standard springs and shackles (that means the ones that came from the factory).

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:33 pm 
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Jr they are ARB springs, which as I understand are fuck all longer than stock ones?

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:48 pm 
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Ahh, I just got told Jackson is a "P" plater with his first Suzuki, no wonder he doesn't get it.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:51 pm 
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2stroker wrote:
Ahh, I just got told Jackson is a "P" plater with his first Suzuki, no wonder he doesn't get it.



I'm a "P" plater on my 3rd zook, does that mean i don't get it to? :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:55 pm 
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i'm not a P plater & I'm on my second suzuki & i still don't get it. :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:57 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
i'm not a P plater & I'm on my second suzuki & i still don't get it. :lol:

leaf springs
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This. :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:07 pm 
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Jackson just sent me a PM and says I have my facts about him wrong so I checked for myself and guess what, every pic of you and your car has "P" plates and last year when you bought your car you didn't even know what it was.

"G'day, Currently I am looking at a what I think is a LJ81. It is an 82 model it has the tray back however it doesn't have the stock engine or gearbox so that's about all I know. I just wanted to find out how hard it is to get spares or how hard it is to mod more recent sierra parts to suit? Thanks, ..."

"G'day, Going to pick up MY FIRST ZOOKI!!! on the weekend (hopefully), anyone got a car trailer in the Newcastle area that I could borrow. I would pay you. Thanks, Jackson"

Maybe what he means is that he is not on "P" plates anymore.

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Post Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:19 pm 
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where did this whole standard springs thing come from.... the OP clearly states he's got lifted springs. :?

Deego wrote:
I wanna put longer shocks on my 2inch lift and body sierra will it help improve anything.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 12:44 am 
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atari4x4 it wouldn't matter if it had lifted springs or not because my initial input was in relation to compressed length of shock, it does not matter if it is a 2" lifted spring, when the diff is on the bump stop you have a 30cm space to fit a shockie into unless you do some mods like a bump stop spacer.

I wrote: "they are way too long when compressed"

So when the discussion progressed to bump stop spacers to compensate for the shockies being too long, other people said they had no problems but couldn't confirm lengths or part numbers to see what shocks they actually had (we established there were more than one length in commodore shockies).

The pics that I posted used a standard spring and shackle to give a referance point to the discussion.

Jacksons last pics prove my point that you dont need the commodores extended lenght of 57cm even with 2" raised ome springs, you could use a shock that was 4 or 5cm shorter when extended and compressed and not have to use bump stop spacers at all. (unless of course you are relying on them to stop big tyres hitting guards).

Many similar shockies from supercheap are under $100 a pair, I fitted a pair with a RUF I did for Aaron off AZ today.

The OP has also PM'd me about doing a RUF, his car does (as you said atari4x4) currently have 2" body lift and 2" lifted springs unknown brand, with the initial advice he was given he would have just bolted the shockies in because until I joined in no one mentioned that they were too long without mods like bump stop spacers or extended shock towers/hoops.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:09 am 
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You couldn't let it go you stupid fuckwit, read this then go punch yourself in the dick then repeat. Although you probably have a problem with doing something that a P plater told you to do because from reading all your other shit fights you seem to like talking yourself up to be one of Gods gifts to the earth

Taking into account that you might be a bit old because you clearly haven't noticed everything or neglected to commit some things to memory that has been said in this thread I will put it in nice big letters for you, you might even be able to take your glasses off.


2stroker wrote:
Jackson's last pics prove my point that you don't need the commodores extended length of 57cm even with 2" raised ome springs, you could use a shock that was 4 or 5cm shorter when extended and compressed and not have to use bump stop spacers at all.


Image

That is an 81340, you will note that it is 313mm long compressed and 525mm long extended this fact has been explained to you multiple times. As for part numbers not being posted for you the only ones that haven't been provided were the big bore yellow ones which were longer then 81340's when compressed anyway so who gives a shit and conveniently the only other person who neglected to post part numbers was you. :roll:


2stroker wrote:
with the initial advice he was given he would have just bolted the shockies in because until I joined in no one mentioned that they were too long without mods like bump stop spacers or extended shock towers/hoops.


And as for you being the savior of this thread. Have another read of these posted before you, both of which told him to search which undoubtedly, unless he reads as well as you, he would have found he needed to extend his bump stops.


BlueSuzy wrote:
YEs it will improve down travel, and possibly ride.

I would recommend vn-vs wagon rear commodore shocks into the front, Hilux/Hiace(notsureexactyears) rear ones for the rear

A small bump extension on the front might be needed also.

A quick search will give alot of info.
Damn you atari you beat me


atari4x4 wrote:
Yes it will improve wheel travel... Search for commodore/hiace shocks. PLENTY of info on this forum if you bother to read any of the existing threads.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:49 am 
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Thanks again for supporting what I said, 313 (without rubber) is in fact longer than the 300 available space.

Settle down mate, this is the NOOB area, it is supposed to be a "no flame area", if you start with your personal attack you must expect something in return.

I stand corrected, BlueSuzy did mention extended bump stops were needed.

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:50 am 
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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:32 am 
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Sooooo, I just went out and flexed up the LJ and measured a few things. Obviously it's not a Sierra, but the front springs and spring spacing are the same as a NT and the diffs are 20mm narrower, so a NT theoretically should flex better.

What I want to contest is this.

2stroker wrote:
I have been saying that longer than 500mm extended length is not warranted with stock springs, shackles bumpstops, this is why:


Just to be clear, the LJ is exceptionally light in the front(and back), no doors, bumper, windscreen or airbox, also no person inside when I measured. It has standard shackles, no bumpstop spacing, stiff poly bushes and standard height(though it is quite tall!) heavy duty King springs meant for a LWB Sierra, they consist of 2 7mm leaves and 2 7.5mm ones. They are so stiff that when fully flexed, the compressed side still has 45mm before the bump stop contacts. The shackle on the droop side was vertical, as you can see, there is more potential in both the droop and compression sides.

Image

As you can see, I'm swinging a very light wheel tyre combo (worn out 4 ply bar tread) off that axle and not using big offset or wheel spacers to cheat more flex. Obviously, I have removed the shocks.

By all accounts, this setup should flex like shit and it certainly has more potential. Yet I get 505mm between the shock mounts, slightly more than you say is possible on front springs.... Though of course, my large spring packs do move the bottom mount down a few mm over a normal set up. Jackson is maxing out his shocks at 520mm. Obviously, your maximum 500mm length is unrealistic.

Now, for the sake of completeness and knowledge, the compressed distance... As I can't measure that because of my super stiff springs I measured the distance between the shocky mounts and bumpstops and got this. 440-115=315mm before compression.

Some interesting observations.

Reversing down my "ramp" netted me 15mm more droop and approximately an inch more up travel in the front, but the rear flexed less.

The LJs body and chassis flex so much that when flexed like this, the steering wheel is pulled hard into the plastic steering surround making it very hard to steer.

The rear flexed approx 50mm in total. A light tray, nearly empty fuel tank, no load, no tow bar and heavy duty springs = no flex.

An LJ front bump stop is mounted to the axle like a Sierra rear and is about 5mm taller than a Sierra front bump stop, it is also much, much stiffer. I didn't measure the height of the bumpstop platform in relation to the spring/shackle mounts though.

I also measured up the lightly compressed distance (my springs are so sagged it sits on the bumpstops on the flat) of my 1l Sierra (with Toyota Corona wagon progressive rear bumpstops), 350mm. The lightly compressed length of my bumpstops was 95mm, the ones I pulled out where 45mm so that brings it down to 300mm, indeed to small for a 313mm compressed length shocky.

2stroker wrote:
Many similar shockies from supercheap are under $100 a pair, I fitted a pair with a RUF I did for Aaron off AZ today.


Seeing as you seem to be on somewhat of a crusade against the use of commdore shocks in Suzukis and you've actually found one that fits, care to share what it is?

Thanks

Hayden

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 12:58 pm 
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Hayden, firstly I am not on a crusade against them, I fitted a pair yesterday to Aarons car (with bump stop spacers) because that is what he could afford and they will do the job, the whole point of my arguement is that they are not a direct repacement.

There are a number of differences with LJ.

1. Firstly as you say the bumpstop is retained on the housing like Sierra rears not on the chassis, they are only 640mm apart compared to NT1300 which is 760mm for same width diff, by having them in further LJ can arcticulate up further than a NT1300 twisted up and has a better leverage effect. (WT are 840 apart but obviously have wider diffs)

2. The diff housing tube is smaller diameter in the LJ.

3. The bumpstop platform on the sierra is 15-20mm lower than the chassis while the bumpstop platform on the LJ is flat with the chassis


Last edited by 2stroker on Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:10 pm 
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2stroker wrote:
Hayden, firstly I am not on a crusade against them, I fitted a pair yesterday to Aarons car (with bump stop spacers) because that is what he could afford and they will do the job, the whole point of my arguement is that they are not a direct repacement.


the thing is no one said they were a direct replacement... :wink:

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 3:56 pm 
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2stroker wrote:
Hayden, firstly I am not on a crusade against them, I fitted a pair yesterday to Aarons car (with bump stop spacers) because that is what he could afford and they will do the job, the whole point of my arguement is that they are not a direct repacement.

There are a number of differences with LJ.

1. Firstly as you say the bumpstop is retained on the housing like Sierra rears not on the chassis, they are only 640mm apart compared to NT1300 which is 760mm for same width diff, by having them in further LJ can arcticulate up further than a NT1300 twisted up and has a better leverage effect. (WT are 840 apart but obviously have wider diffs)

Yeah, but not relevant as by bumptop is a whopping 45mm away from contacting due to my rock solid springs. But thankyou, I hadn't considered that.

2. The diff housing tube is smaller diameter in the LJ.

Nope, I was comparing to a 1l, same diameter.

3. The bumpstop platform on the sierra is 15-20mm lower than the chassis while the bumpstop platform on the LJ is flat with the chassis

Nope, my Sierras is level with the chassis, what's more, the chassis slopes upwards from the shackle hangar where as the LJs doesn't.


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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:05 pm 
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1. Yeah rule that part out then, with soft springs though you should be able to get them to touch, it also stands to reason that the further out the bump stops are the closer they would be to bumping out when twisted up, I wonder how close it would be if the bump stops were 760mm apart like on a 1300NT.

2. Nah you will find the diameter is not the same at the perch location because an LJ housing tapers down from the nuckle and the perch is welded to a straight section of tube, on an LJ the perch is also right up tight against the tube. With the offfset 1 litre diff housing the perch is positioned half way up the side of the pumpkin on the short side and the long side perch sits a good 15mm off the housing to compensate for the narrow side perch being positioned on the taper up to the pumpkin.

3. You are right I was thinking 1300NT not 1 litre

Image

1300 bump stop

Image

1litre bump stop

Image


Last edited by 2stroker on Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:12 pm 
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fark now we're talking about LJ's & 1lt's... how about comparing apples with apples sideways :roll:

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Post Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:24 pm 
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Nah atari4x4 this is interesting stuff, there are so many little variations between models and it allows for some mixing and matching of stuff to suit your particular build. It also helps explain why different people seem to get different results, for instance look at the difference between the bump stop plates in the two pics, that could be the exact reason someone needs 20mm of bump stop extension and someome else needs 40mm when they are running the same shockies, wide track is diferent again. Also a very valid point comes through from sideways LJ observations in that some springs may not flex up enough to ever get close to the bump stops so it wouldn't matter is the compressed length was a bit long.

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Post Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:42 am 
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good tech ,crap shit fight

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:26 pm 
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than what is a shock that is less than 300 compressed and as long as a commodore shock. Or lo
nger than stock

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Post Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 9:15 pm 
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So has anyone got a shock number for the front that are 300mm collapsed and 440mm open ?

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Post Posted: Tue May 28, 2013 7:34 pm 
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PM sent

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