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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 1:20 pm 
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hey guys what is the Od of wide track diff tube? I need it to make w template for the plasma cutter to make new perches. also is the front drivers side still the same size on both sides? as in does it sit on the rise to the pumpkin like a hilux? this is for a wt conversion under a 1ltr.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 1:47 pm 
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60mm I believe. UnleSs that's hilux..

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 1:48 pm 
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No idea on the Od, TSOR make some great precut mounts though!, they are what I have used the 2nd time around on the front. I still have the unused rear ones at home that could be put in at some point.

Well 1l spacing is the same as NT spacing yea? so yep, my drivers side sits on the pumpkin. I found some pics for you :P

Image

Image

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 1:58 pm 
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Rear diff is the same OD left and right.

Front is different from left to right, with the inside edge of the drivers side being an irregular shape.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:07 pm 
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when you going down to your dads again? might come have a look-see...

I'm cutting my perches out as low as I can (lowering diff to spring) there for free lift... should be able to get 15-20mm lower...

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:08 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
Rear diff is the same OD left and right.

Front is different from left to right, with the inside edge of the drivers side being an irregular shape.


thanks pete, thought as much. I might cut them the same and notch him out with grinder to suit

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:13 pm 
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i still notch the TSOR to get a tight fit over the DS pumpkin.

you might get 5-15mm more lift....

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:15 pm 
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Righto I see, the first time around mine were too low so the pin went through the hole and hit the dif before the leaf sat flat on the perch <.<. Gotta watch that :P.

I live there now, so every night :).

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:18 pm 
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31zook wrote:
i still notch the TSOR to get a tight fit over the DS pumpkin.

you might get 5-15mm more lift....

yeah, that's 5-15mm less I have to remove from guards.
from looking at stock perches and Pete's there's proberbly 20mm that could come out of rears.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:18 pm 
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When I am installing new perches, best I can get is 5-10mm lower thanks to the pumkin. For you to get 20mm with NT spacing, you will no longer have a flat surface for the spring to rest against, as the pumpkin will be protruding through the top of the perch.

Save your efforts and add some virtual lift.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:20 pm 
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Jazzor wrote:
Righto I see, the first time around mine were too low so the pin went through the hole and hit the dif before the leaf sat flat on the perch <.<. Gotta watch that :P.

I live there now, so every night :).


I will grind the pin down :) pluss I'm offsetting the diff forward..

ah cool I will come down next week.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:21 pm 
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jonno_racing wrote:
from looking at stock perches and Pete's there's proberbly 20mm that could come out of rears.



They are designed to sit at OEM height.

If the new ones you are getting made are cut and fold, then you will get massive flaring through the side of the perch when folding due to the dies not having enough material to contact.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:21 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
Save your efforts and add some virtual lift.

I'm doing both.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:25 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
from looking at stock perches and Pete's there's proberbly 20mm that could come out of rears.



They are designed to sit at OEM height.

If the new ones you are getting made are cut and fold, then you will get massive flaring through the side of the perch when folding due to the dies not having enough material to contact.

yeah Pete that wasn't having a go at your product at all. I just want something diffrent.

I'm cutting mine from rhs.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 2:54 pm 
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jonno_racing wrote:
yeah Pete that wasn't having a go at your product at all.


Not for one minute did I consider you were having a go mate. :wink:

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 3:09 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
yeah Pete that wasn't having a go at your product at all.


Not for one minute did I consider you were having a go mate. :wink:


sweet its very easy to see some one as having a go..

getting back on track.. does any one actually know the size of the tube??

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 4:13 pm 
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Pretty sure its 65mm, I'm doing a similar thing but making bigger bottom plates to take countersunk bolts going up with nuts on top. It will be still able to take u-bolts though if need be. Just means less crap to get caught on also shaving the diff and bracing.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 5:03 pm 
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pyrohamish wrote:
Pretty sure its 65mm, I'm doing a similar thing but making bigger bottom plates to take countersunk bolts going up with nuts on top. It will be still able to take u-bolts though if need be. Just means less crap to get caught on also shaving the diff and bracing.


yeah i may shave and brace mine in the future...

im doing this with my u-bolt much plates... also lifting the shock mount up 25mm ish... i love the idea and its cheep as chips to do.


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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 5:05 pm 
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Why not just do a U-bolt flip?

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 5:07 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
Why not just do a U-bolt flip?


12mm of u-bolt thickness+ plate to secure it or 6mm of plate!!

and a u-bolt flip isnt great on a sua truck imo.

what i mean is a u-bolt flip wont actually give you any advantage in clearance where as funky plates will give u 30mm ish more clearance

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 5:16 pm 
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Image

Ignore the spacers under the nuts, they were removed.

U-bolts are forged, and flattened to 6 or 7mm under the spring. Threads remain protected from damage.

Works fine on SPUA applications.

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 5:25 pm 
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I like that set up.
is there anything stopping the ubolts "working" into the springs?

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Post Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 5:32 pm 
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jonno_racing wrote:
I like that set up.
is there anything stopping the ubolts "working" into the springs?

Not in that pic. But I did have a 'spreader' plate machined up that filled the gap between the ubolts. It has a 1mm flange that sat between the u-bolt and leaf. I never had any issues once it was all torqued up.

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Post Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 3:57 am 
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Vote fatzook sells this as a kit lol

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 2:01 am 
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nick_bj40 wrote:
Vote fatzook sells this as a kit lol

Vote x2

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:57 am 
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KEENSY85 wrote:
nick_bj40 wrote:
Vote fatzook sells this as a kit lol

Vote x2

X3 Armsup

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