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Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2010 10:30 pm
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Post Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:51 pm 
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Hey guys.
I've searched about these but wanting some more recent info. Have they changed the design/quality of these within the last year? I noticed a couple of years back there were quite a few breakages and splines twisting. Does anybody have any recent experience? Running 33's at the moment.

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Paul

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:07 pm 
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To suit ?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:41 pm 
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Hey Paul, I've been running these on my zook for about 3 years now, with lockers and 33 inch silverstone extreme's/simex's and they are still going strong. No probs at all...

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:46 pm 
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To suit a WT Sierra.

Have you had the axles out in the mean time? If so what condition were they in? Any twist in the splines?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 4:57 pm 
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Phil from PDR originally installed the axels and since then i'm pretty sure he's had it all apart and it was all good. But in saying that, it was probably about 2 years ago he had it all apart to shim up the pinion in the rear diff. So who knows what condition the splines are in now... I've already been through a set of front double tuff chromos, but the rears seam to be holding up well to the abuse :) I think a full float rear is where it's at these days... Gwagon has built a few in his time, based on a vitara rear housing and i'm pretty sure Joeblow is manufacturing full-floater kits as well... something to look into anyways...

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 6:56 pm 
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I bought a pair but never used them.
I sold them to Hamish.
Maybe he or Rikstr will chime in with how they are holding up.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:22 pm 
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want33s wrote:
I bought a pair but never used them.
I sold them to Hamish.
Maybe he or Rikstr will chime in with how they are holding up.



Darkhorse bought a used axle assembly off someone here ( can't remember who....) Had calmini HD rears, and they had a good twist through the splines.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:38 pm 
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i have found in both of my zooks...( my first one and rons....) they get to a certain bend and stay there....i have spares here ready to go if i break one but my blue ones were bent for years and never snapped...

in this one there bent again!haha

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:40 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
want33s wrote:
I bought a pair but never used them.
I sold them to Hamish.
Maybe he or Rikstr will chime in with how they are holding up.



Darkhorse bought a used axle assembly off someone here ( can't remember who....) Had calmini HD rears, and they had a good twist through the splines.


It was me... I swapped Hamish my axles plus cash for his complete diff. Then cut the brackets off, changed my mind and sold it to fund lux diffs.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:10 pm 
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want33s wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
want33s wrote:
I bought a pair but never used them.
I sold them to Hamish.
Maybe he or Rikstr will chime in with how they are holding up.



Darkhorse bought a used axle assembly off someone here ( can't remember who....) Had calmini HD rears, and they had a good twist through the splines.


It was me... I swapped Hamish my axles plus cash for his complete diff. Then cut the brackets off, changed my mind and sold it to fund lux diffs.



Yeah I guess it doesn't matter anyway. :wink:

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 12:14 am 
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This is it:
Image

FWIW it's still going strong despite the twist, including running a badly set Lockright for a few months.

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 4:45 pm 
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Whoa that's a big twist!

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 10:08 pm 
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I don't think sizukikids were that bad from memory and I think his are standard???

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 28, 2012 6:44 am 
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yeah mine are standed....i reckon my twist is about half of that! and thats out of a welded rear that cops it!

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 12:10 pm 
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Grave dig time..

So would one say it's worth saving your money and sticking with Std axles??

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 12:16 pm 
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Stick with stockers

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:56 pm 
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There was talk of TrialJimny doing their Jimny Axles in a Sierra/Samurai length, but they dont appear on their site yet.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:17 pm 
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buzbox wrote:
Grave dig time..

So would one say it's worth saving your money and sticking with Std axles??


yes, i remember when i first got my calmini rears, snapped 2 and twisted 1, don't know what the recent ones are like.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:58 pm 
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Bought a 6.5 transfer off a guy, Calmini's, had a set both sides twisted, one side crazy twisted. RHS Double tuff in the front had the end torn off, running beadlocked 35s, 1.3, lockrights F/R. Trying to climb a rock ledge apparently.
He blamed the transfer.

I hope he is wrong.

Does anyone want to get a pile of STD rears cryo'd? Keen for a couple of sets.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:05 am 
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mazdaspater wrote:
Does anyone want to get a pile of STD rears cryo'd? Keen for a couple of sets.


That won't do anything for strength.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:10 am 
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X2.

Cryo is very close to snake oil and does stuff all for tensile strength, if it does anything at all.

Of course, if you read the advertising from the cryo treaters, it cures cancer and makes your girlfriend hotter.

Steve

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:20 am 
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If cryo makes your girlfriend hotter, you have a whole other string of issues.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:55 pm 
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Cap5ze was snaping bundy axels like tooth picks till pete got the centers and axels cryoed
After that he never had a problem

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:08 pm 
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Find me some science to support that cryo significantly increases tensile strength in 10XX series steels and I'll believe you.

The problem is there is very little science. It works well in some materials for some qualities, but it's not a magic fix for parts that are too weak.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:07 pm 
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On the girlfriend front, I would settle for quieter. Will this help for that?

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:01 pm 
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School holidays?

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:15 pm 
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Nah

Image

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:31 pm 
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How much of an increase in strength are we chasing from our too weak standard parts?
I think I remember you wrote once that they only have to be "just strong enough" Steve. It could have been some one else but I thought it was you.

You must feel pretty strongly to just shoot it down like that.

Some people swear by cryo treatment for this kind of stuff, I have never used it myself so I guess cannot comment, but by the sound of your comments Steve and Joe you have? Interested to hear about it if you have. Or do you guys have a better grasp on the science than me? Not hard.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 8:01 pm 
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I work for and NDT company and we had a metallurgy lab. I have done LOTS of reading and research on Cryo. How much research have you done on Cryo?

From what I've read, the effects of Cryo are real, but are enormously variable. Unfortunately, until cryo is covered by ANSI/ASTM or similar, it's very hard to separate the marketing nonsense from the science. Google "cryo treatment" and the first two pages are marketing nonsense.

Heat treatment is well understood, and the gains in strength are well documented through rigorous destructive testing and governed by standards. It's a science.

It's surprisingly hard to find ANY information on demonstrated improvements in strength due to cryo proved destructively. (i.e scientifically)

Race teams love it because it's "something you can do" and it can't hurt. It doesn't really matter if it works or not, or works 10% of the time, or only works on a small range of materials - you ship everything off to the treater and they work their magic... and maybe it works.Race drivers wear lucky jocks too, and that's not scientific wither. It might work quite well 4340.... or cast material... or gears (where there is some evidence it's quite good) but if these materials are being heat treated, there is lots of data about how it's done - times and temperatures etc. That's not the case with cryo. It's all very hit and miss. It seems to assist in wear resistance in tool steels... which an axle isn't.... but a CV is. Cryo may well make a CV or gear last longer, but it wont stop an axle breaking.

You're running 35's and breaking stock axles. We were doing that too. We're running EN-26 floaters and they are, by design and material, about twice as strong as stock. We've broken one of them, and so if we break another, we're looking at 300m, which will be about 40% stronger than EN-26.

35's and stock axles don't need "a little bit stronger". They need to be LOTS stronger. Semifloating axles have no place in a car that has marginal axle strength.

I hate the idea of bulky, heavy diffs full of rubbish material (like 1020) that are designed for a car that weighs 3500kg. Maybe that's where the idea of a little bit better" comes from - more strength through better materials.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:33 pm 
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Relax man. If you thought I was belittling your knowledge on the subject, I was not.

As I said it would not be hard to have a better knowledge of the science than I.
To quote myself "Or do you guys have a better grasp on the science than me? Not hard."

It was a request for information, not a stab at you.

I am sorry if I have accidentally offended you.

I have 31's, lockrites F/R, and 6.5s. I am only looking for some insurance or a small increase in strength to give a greater margin for error or abuse. Considering 33's but don't want to start destroying too much, just looking for affordable improvements.

Isn't that what modified Zooks are about?

I have read hundreds of your posts on here and Outers, and am extremely appreciative of your Fab skills and knowledge, but am not sure why you have jumped down my throat about this.

Cheers,
Chris.

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