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Post Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 9:54 am 
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hi guys.

as I am a new noob Jimny owner, when I look at under the car it looks like the rear left trailing arm has a kink on it ? is this normal ?

anyone has got a photo of it so I can compare ?

any help is good.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 10:28 am 
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Shouldnt be bent mate, jimny arms bend like twigs.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 12:40 pm 
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zooky08 wrote:
Shouldnt be bent mate, jimny arms bend like twigs.


clarify that would ya? Shouldnt be bent? yet they bend like twigs? so which is it?

I assume your saying they are weak and bend like twigs and if its bent, that aint right! lol.... maybe i've had too many coffee's today.


EDIT: on topic though, how about you post what YOU have mate, and we can tell you if its frucked or not, probably easier!

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 1:24 pm 
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Yes i ment they bend like twigs, they are weak.
They should be straight with no bends in them.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 6:45 pm 
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zooky08 wrote:
Yes i ment they bend like twigs, they are weak.
They should be straight with no bends in them.


I think the saying is 'snap like a twig'. Twigs dont bend. :wink:

OP, if they are bent, it is unlikely that they have both bent exactly the same. So compare your left and right arms. If one is different to the other, chances are its bent.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:34 am 
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I am sure mine is bend. Spewing how can I miss that on the inspection. Will post the photo when I get a chance .

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:41 am 
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Btw guys since I am going to replace the bend trailing arm any suggestion ? Should I replace with the factory one ? Or is there any after market one for it ? Mine has the snake racing from control arms already . Massive difference comparing to the stock one .

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:42 am 
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Btw guys since I am going to replace the bend trailing arm any suggestion ? Should I replace with the factory one ? Or is there any after market one for it ? Mine has the snake racing from control arms already . Massive difference comparing to the stock one .

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:55 am 
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get new ones all round. if you have a 3" lift get ones from
ORA http://www.offroad-armory.com/store/ind ... uct_id=379
or Jimny bits http://www.jimnybits.co.uk/shop/jimny/j ... d_442.html

but if you don't have a 3" life i don't think there is anywhere that does uprated ones.

and wow you really got ripped if you payed $1100 for those snakeracing ones. $1100 for 2 cast arms. ORA and jimny bits is like $400 for 4 and they aren't cast. and heaps stronger

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 10:43 am 
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Thanks heaps Blakey. The front snak racing arm comes with the car. I ha a lOok Dan they are expensive .

I will look it to that .

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 8:33 pm 
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If you have snake arms in the front, I assume you also already have 3" lift.
I have ORA 4.5" lift front arms and I can assure you they are super HD. Their arms come in 3" or 4.5" and they also have rears available. Are your current rear arms standard?

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:29 am 
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not to hijack or anything. but whats the benefit of running a corrected and uprated arm on the rears as well? im just running JB arms on the front only ATM. Is it only a strength thing?

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:18 am 
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zukenutter wrote:
If you have snake arms in the front, I assume you also already have 3" lift.
I have ORA 4.5" lift front arms and I can assure you they are super HD. Their arms come in 3" or 4.5" and they also have rears available. Are your current rear arms standard?


Hi zukenutter

thanks for the reply. yes the rear arm looks standard to me, when I bought the car I was advice that the car comes with 4" lift, so I assume it does. it has rancho adjustable shocks and tough dog spring together with the tough dog panard rod.

how can i tell if it has 3" or 4' lift ?

thanks

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:31 am 
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Scales wrote:
not to hijack or anything. but whats the benefit of running a corrected and uprated arm on the rears as well? im just running JB arms on the front only ATM. Is it only a strength thing?


id say they'd help with getting the wheelbase back to stock along with correcting the pinion angle. :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:46 am 
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Scales wrote:
not to hijack or anything. but whats the benefit of running a corrected and uprated arm on the rears as well? im just running JB arms on the front only ATM. Is it only a strength thing?


less stress on the bushes. as the tube is central other than that its easyer to set up as there is no alligning to do for the bushes. and stronger.

other then that i got no idea.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:17 am 
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how is the crush tube NOT central dude? im not running castor correction on the rear... and dont know anyone who does.


pinion angle would be my guess too, but wasnt sure if its really required to correct the arse end. its not that far out!

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:23 pm 
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Scales wrote:
how is the crush tube NOT central dude? im not running castor correction on the rear... and dont know anyone who does.


pinion angle would be my guess too, but wasnt sure if its really required to correct the arse end. its not that far out!



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Post Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 1:40 pm 
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Scales wrote:
how is the crush tube NOT central dude? im not running castor correction on the rear... and dont know anyone who does.


pinion angle would be my guess too, but wasnt sure if its really required to correct the arse end. its not that far out!


my bad i read what you said wrong.

but the corrected ones just fix the diff flange angle back up to the same as the transfer flange angle

from what i have been told the ORA rear arms are corrected for it. but its not overly needed. as the wheels cant wobble much anyway as they dont steer

it also stops your shocks from hitting your panhard.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:31 pm 
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meh... i think i can getaway with stock arms in that case. the angle isnt that extreme.

for arguments sake, could one just get another pair of JB arms (the front ones) and use in the back? or are they different?

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:14 pm 
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Should be able to get another set of front ones. i have jb ones. I was just going to get another set for the rear or ake another set as the jb ones hang to low.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:20 am 
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Scales wrote:
meh... i think i can getaway with stock arms in that case. the angle isnt that extreme.

for arguments sake, could one just get another pair of JB arms (the front ones) and use in the back? or are they different?


fronts are far shorter then rears, as you can see here with my corrected arms
Image

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:56 am 
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anyway beside all the above point, I went out on last sunday for a short play in my jimny (2nd day I had the car) I wa so happy with what the jimny can do ,, first time driving 4x4 in manual ( had manual car all my life) dam its not easy on 4wd high, I nearly burn out the clutch (stupid me) so I pust the magic 4WD-L buttom thats when the fun begins.. the car is awesome it basicly go anywhere I point the wheel to. had my fun and went home. second day head down to local wrecker and pick up a rear trailing arm as I inspecting the arm making sure thta fits I saw my rear trailing arm snap (crack all the way through) OMFG, I was driving all this time with out noticing it.. I felt likek I just dodge a bullet. here is what it looks like !

I will be upgrading to the aftermarket one later on.

wen


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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:12 am 
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wow that's nasty!

TZAR wrote:
Image


I'm 99% sure this is slightly wrong...
if unis have 0% of angle they will vibrate because the shaft will try to throw over. this comes from doing unis at tafe, a uni needs a small amount of matching angle on each end to have no vibrations.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:58 am 
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yeah i didnt think it looked right either johnno. In that diagram, they suggest the line from the output flange to the diff in a dead straight line is ideal. Not like the output flange from the t-case is pointing down, nor is the diff pointing up... more like the 2nd pic really. maybe a touch more pinion angle directed upwards at the diff, which cant hurt IMO.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:09 am 
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what about in a Silva or rear drive IRS car... their tail shafts are virtually a straight line.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:24 am 
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atari4x4 wrote:
what about in a Silva or rear drive IRS car... their tail shafts are virtually a straight line.

they will always have a slight angle to the uni's.
my tafe teacher showed us using a old hilux uni and he said that the ideal angle for this uni was about 8' but it would take much more or much less.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:05 pm 
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wlin88 wrote:
Image



in other perspective, u must be having some crazy mad flex going on there :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:27 pm 
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[quote = in other perspective, u must be having some crazy mad flex going on there :lol:[/quote]


lol, it does flex a bit more..

you know what the funny thing I drop with the broken arm and I jimny did not wobble now since I replace a new one the jimny death wobble has hit me .....

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:34 pm 
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Another take on the driveshaft/ pinion angle...

Image

little bit different to this....

Image

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