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Poll: Galvanize or Paint?

Galvanize 23%  23%  [ 3 ]
Paint 77%  77%  [ 10 ]
Total votes : 13

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:20 pm 
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So ive got my chassis striped and am considering getting it hot diped galvanised. Anyone done this before? Im guessing i will have to sandblast the chassis first. My other option is sand blast it and paint it.

Build Thread: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=34015&p=649870&hilit=ute#p649870

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:27 pm 
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Get it zinc plated or e-coated, don't do gal.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:28 pm 
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Pretty sure its been talked about. As far as i remember it wasnt worth it.
I assume you will have to drill some holes for venting as well.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:30 pm 
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I would advise against hot dip Galv.

because there are many double skinned sections in a sierra chassis, these areas are places for the pre-dip acids to accumulate, and the hot Galv will get trapped in those same areas, causing a 'blow-out'. In otherwords, it will wreck your chassis.

As such, many galvanisers won't touch chassis', unless they can inspect them first.

IMO, get it blasted, then painted, then treat internally and externaly with Penetrol or similar.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:30 pm 
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I would sandblast and paint it in 2 pak.
I belive the chassis may twist or warp if hot gal dipped.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:32 pm 
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Thanks for the info guys looks like its getting a shiney new paint job 8)

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:41 pm 
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I was going to Gal my LJ chasis but was told it could stuff the tensile of the steel and would not be legal

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:03 pm 
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Kymb0 wrote:
I was going to Gal my LJ chasis but was told it could stuff the tensile of the steel and would not be legal



Not sure about that one.....

High load trailers are hot dipped all the time.

tests actually show that hardness ( brinnell) and tensile/ yeild ( mpa ) increase slightly after HDG. But not by enough for it to be worth mentioning.

EDIT: http://www.ingal.com.au/IGSM/28.htm

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:06 pm 
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Army Landrovers had Gal chassis IIRC. In fact, HDG land rover chassis are common the in UK aftermarket replacement market.

I'm passing no comment on whether it's feasible to HDG an old chassis, but only that it is done.


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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:10 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:

I'm passing no comment on whether it's feasible to HDG an old chassis, but only that it is done.


Steve.



I had 3 different galvanizers turn me away after inspecting my sierra chassis. They all said the same thing. Too many places for air to get trapped whilst in the tank = pop.

So while it may be possible to HDG a chassis, it doesn't seem possible to dip a SIERRA chassis.

Mr. Blow mentioned Zinc, or e-plating. These would be ok assuming the pre-treatment fluids did not get trapped in the pockets and double skinned areas prior to getting dunked.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:13 pm 
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CHROME!!!!!

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:14 pm 
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It's a chassis. Paint it yourself and spend your coin on something you can't do yourself like parts.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:40 pm 
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The gal people in Darwin seen to be able to gal entire cars so I dunno why southerners can't do a Sierra chassis

http://forum.darwin4x4.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2002

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:48 pm 
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need an account to view that one shep... supazook whats you password?

is that the galv FJ40?

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:50 pm 
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There ya go I thought it was a open forum. Yeah mate a gal fj40

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:42 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
I had 3 different galvanizers turn me away after inspecting my sierra chassis. They all said the same thing. Too many places for air to get trapped whilst in the tank = pop.

So while it may be possible to HDG a chassis, it doesn't seem possible to dip a SIERRA chassis.

I would have thought something like a Vitara chassis would be problematic - the one I recently cut up with a grinder had the rails almost completely filled with mud so they definitely don't drain well, but a Sierra Chassis has 2 rails open at each end, heaps of drain holes in the bottom of the rails and around mounting brackets and if you drilled a hole in the top section of each bend of the rails and maybe the top of the circular crossmember above the tank - nowhere for air to accumulate or acid to get trapped whichever way it's dipped.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:56 pm 
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The problematic areas are the overlapping areas between the main chassis, and the underslung brace for which the rear fixed spring hangers are located on a LWB chassis, same with the front fixed hangers, front bumpstop mounts, rear shocky cross member, the little pads on the top of the chassis at the back that support the floor etc. These overlapping surfaces cannot be 'drilled' to allow for venting, and are the main concern.

The rails themselves are completely open, and wouldn't require any drilling I would imagine.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:13 pm 
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Por15. Look into it.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:26 pm 
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^^^ listen to this guy, he's no moreon.

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 5:03 am 
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Have seen a vw floorpan that had been galvinised. They have a tunnel and heaps of overlapping parts but when tis came out of the dip it was twisted, all the threaded holes were full of shit and had to be retapped very slowly, and all the welds showed up like dogs balls ( shortened manx fllorpan) even the new welded in body number

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 6:26 am 
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I have a Galvanised LJ81 chassis. Its a nightmare on so many levels... I ended up getting another LJ81 chassis as I have no confidence in the galvanised one...

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Post Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 8:52 am 
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All you're going to do is drag it over a few rocks and grind the gal off anyway. I'd say there's better mods you could spend the money on.

If you're painting it I'd be looking at LIC40 as the paint. Pretty well as hard as powdercoat, able to be touched up at a later point and comes in heaps of colours.

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