[GeckoXL7]

Hi,

Just replaced my front wheel hubs and took some pics, got quoted 1.5hrs each side, did both in 2 hours which included degreasing, cleaning and after fixing camber and tightening sway bar links. so really prob only took me around 1.5hours to do both! Suzuki must work slow lol...

I got the Hubs from repco they cost around $115each

bellow is what i did, mind my lack of detai, speling or anything else lol, doing this after a hard day of work to be ready for a 4x4 trip the next day does kinda take it out of you

First I removed the AVM Hubs which i think where the cause of my failed wheel bearings as lots of dirt was in there mixed with greese.




To make things easy i removed the two bolts holding the brake caliper on and removed it still attached to the disk so no time was wasted bleeding the brakes.

Next you remove all the small bolts holding the hub cover or locker on and you will see a little notch, stick a screwdriver in there to easily pry of the Manual Hub or cover.



You will be exposed with this



You will see 4 screws, may need to clean it up a bit before you can see them, but the screws are on a lock ring and have to be removed, they can be stubbon so be carefull not to thread/ chew them up with a screwdriver, just a tip if cant get loose use a good screw driver and tap the screw driver with a hammer to bed it in the screw better, you should be able to get a good grip of it after.



This is option but later found out when doing right wheel its not nessasary, but if you want you can remove the cir clip.



The lock ring should pull straight off with ease.



Behind the lock ring is another screw type ring that needs to be removed with a special tool can be purchased from Ben T just be warned it can be extremly tight but if it is, its most likely doesnt need to be replaced, in my case i could of taken it of with my hand! if it wasnt for the lock ring my wheels would of fallen off lol. You use a 17mm socket on a breaker bar to remove and also to tighten once installed or even a Air or power impact wrench



Once off you will be left with this.



Hub should now pull of with ease " Just a note there should be another ring sitting behind the ring you take of with the tool it has two flat edges, usually it will be stuck to the bearings with grease and kinda hidden just use a screw driver to fish it out if not there it may be on the ring as pictured above.



Once off, i gave it a good clean using a fair bit of WD40 to remove rust, mud, grease etc etc



Time to put new hub back on, in exact reverse order. a few Notes: before putting the Hub on i used Timken bearing grease on the axel and the hub bed and the shaft it sits on so it helps keep dirt and water out, make sure you clean the thread where the ring screws onto. You will need to tighten the ring quite tightly there is a specific torque setting 219NM basically this is as tight as you can get it with hand then will need a breaker bar with a few extensions on it and push down with a fair bit of weight a few times till you cant turn it no more, the holes should align up for the locking ring if correct if holes dont line up see how much more you need to go and try your hardest to turn it that bit more.

[atari4x4]

nice write up, did the new hubs have the bearings already installed?

[GeckoXL7]

Yep all one unit, greased and all, just a matter of puting them on. Saves a lot of time pissing around trying to get the bearings out and back in.

As a bonus get new wheel studs as well, mine was starting to get a bit chewed so was hard to put the wheel nuts on, now got nice new shiny hubs to mount my wheels on, and spin quite nicely and quietly, old ones kinda sounded like they grinded a bit.

[alexxx]

you didnt pay $115 each now did you!! be honest ha!!

great write up bud

[atari4x4]

sweet, that makes it a hell of a lot easier than messing around pressing bearings, i know who i'll be going to see when i need to do front wheel bearings.

[GeckoXL7]

lol but not everyone could get them from a mate lol

Can get them of ebay for around 65 each and delivery would be 55 from the USA

[alexxx]

atari4x4 wrote:

sweet, that makes it a hell of a lot easier than messing around pressing bearings, i know who i'll be going to see when i need to do front wheel bearings.

who gus??? baha!!!!

[GeckoXL7]

Have to thank Ben T for top service getting the tool all the way from NZ before my trip was panicing as no way i could of went where i was going pulling a camper with the state they where in

[GeckoXL7]

Just a note, tried driving of this morning, that was ok, but braking was a different story, ABS system was going haywire.

In a mad rush to get to work, i riped of the wheel, brake caliper and disk to find there was greese in some of the holes on the ABS Ring, cleaning that fixed it.

Having a SDT tool really helped as could see what wheel was the issue, ABS light didnt say there was a fault which was strange, as the left wheel was showing no speed so to the abs it thought the wheel was locked up.

Now though when slowing down the abs goes under 3km/h till i stop. The ABS ring wasn't very flat kinda warped so think that is the prob as not that accurate bellow a certain speed. So if have abs prob worth checking this before putting the hub on, the ring can come of quite easily.

[fordem]

That's strange - ABS should have set a fault within about 100 metres of your moving off.

At start up it checks the wheel sensors for open/short circuits, and then once the vehicle starts to move it should monitor all four sensors for a "similar" pulse train - lack of a pulse train should set a code.

[GeckoXL7]

Yeah was weird, over 10km/h could see the speed flicker from say 7-10 on the wheel and then stop alltogether u think it would of thrown up a code, its the first thing i checked in pending coded, but wasnt none.