[Sweenz]

So i busted my drivers side CV and from all of the research Ive done unless I go to a SAS (looks to difficult and expensive) I'll be changing lots of CV's in the future. I was just wondering if there was any form of strengthened after market CV's available? Failing that where the cheapest place to buy them? The only place I have found them so far is eBay for around $120.

[atari4x4]

is it a 22 or 26 spline diff/CV?

[Sweenz]

Its a 1990 model so 22 if my research is correct.

[atari4x4]

upgrade to 26 spline, CV strength really depends on driving style & terrain... i've only broken one, but i don't drive like a rooster + having the front air locked takes alot of the shock loading off the front end when lifting wheels etc.

[Sweenz]

Front locker aye? I was just reading a post about how front air lockers are a large attributing factor to breaking CV's. My car has 5 inches of lift (3 suspension and 2 from body lift). I also run 31 tires and have strut spacers. I have read something about 4runner CV's. Is that a worth while pursuit or just go with 26 spline setup.

[atari4x4]

got a link to that post?

you'll find that being locked actually helps in preserving CV's as it won't lift a wheel & spin like fuck then come down & grab traction then break either the CV or diff+ being locked you don't have to hit things as hard lessoning the chance of doing damage.

i've run the same combo as you for over 7 years & have only broken 1 CV & that was being silly.

[christover1]

All 4wd's and front wd's should carry a spare CV.
It is a known weak point in many cars.
You can change them fairly easily.

In my opinion, stronger CV's could just move the weak point to somewhere else.

Drivers side can be a bitch to replace,
hence why a few of us have converted to running two left CV's.

Apparently I'm told, ebay CV's are a slight different design, and could be stronger?
Chances are your CV was over 20 years old anyway.

[got_bar_work]

I recon the stock ones are better then the new ones
To much droop And or to much steering lock is wat is the biggest killer
How much extra droop do u have and do u have diff drop brackets
U can have 40mm more droop then stock thats it
Anything more and the diff has to drop the same amount that ur drooping over 40mm
Make sure that u adjust ur steering stops
Jack the front off the ground and turn the wheel full lock
It should have a gap between the tire and chassis
If not wind out the bolts on pitman arm

[Sweenz]

atari4x4 wrote:

got a link to that post?

you'll find that being locked actually helps in preserving CV's as it won't lift a wheel & spin like fuck then come down & grab traction then break either the CV or diff+ being locked you don't have to hit things as hard lessoning the chance of doing damage.

i've run the same combo as you for over 7 years & have only broken 1 CV & that was being silly.

atari4x4 wrote:

Gwagensteve wrote:

It is possible to break a vitara CV with a 31" tyre, under the following circumstances:

With a front locker. It's almost impossible without a front locker.
At full lock and full droop where they are weakest
If you add long struts and strut spacers so they basically fall apart from being overextended.
Driving like a tool.

Theres lots of vitaras running 31's with no CV problems.

The bigger problem with vitara's and 31s is that there isn't a solution for road gearing. Whilst it will be okish, if you put stock tyres back on you would be amazed at how much performance you get back. It's one of the reasons I advocate an automatic - you don't have to be hard on the clutch, and the slip in the auto smudges out some of the gearing problems.

Off road it's not a problem as you can fit crawler gears fairly cheaply.

Steve.

Steve's right.

There is a soloution to correcting the on-road gearing & that is by buying the last of the Vitara's which were the SV420 & SV620, these 2 can be re-gearded quite cheaply & easily using the diff ratio's from the earlier SE416 Vitara's.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=29928&view=previous

[Sweenz]

Is there a write up or instruction on how to run 2 passenger side CV's?

[atari4x4]

Sweenz wrote:

atari4x4 wrote:

got a link to that post?

you'll find that being locked actually helps in preserving CV's as it won't lift a wheel & spin like fuck then come down & grab traction then break either the CV or diff+ being locked you don't have to hit things as hard lessoning the chance of doing damage.

i've run the same combo as you for over 7 years & have only broken 1 CV & that was being silly.

atari4x4 wrote:

Gwagensteve wrote:

It is possible to break a vitara CV with a 31" tyre, under the following circumstances:

With a front locker. It's almost impossible without a front locker.
At full lock and full droop where they are weakest
If you add long struts and strut spacers so they basically fall apart from being overextended.
Driving like a tool.

Theres lots of vitaras running 31's with no CV problems.

The bigger problem with vitara's and 31s is that there isn't a solution for road gearing. Whilst it will be okish, if you put stock tyres back on you would be amazed at how much performance you get back. It's one of the reasons I advocate an automatic - you don't have to be hard on the clutch, and the slip in the auto smudges out some of the gearing problems.

Off road it's not a problem as you can fit crawler gears fairly cheaply.

Steve.

Steve's right.

There is a soloution to correcting the on-road gearing & that is by buying the last of the Vitara's which were the SV420 & SV620, these 2 can be re-gearded quite cheaply & easily using the diff ratio's from the earlier SE416 Vitara's.

http://www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtop ... w=previous

and you just proved that theory wrong by breaking a CV while being unlocked...

check out a thread called "bomb proof diff" in good tech

[Sweenz]

Haha nah not at all. I reckon I broke it cause of my poor driving style. I just wanted to confirm the diff locker thing before I spent money on it.

[atari4x4]

at least with an air locker you can pick & choose when to use it unlike a lockrite that's always there.