[Skippy]

Swapped the bits i needed to over from my T/C to mubby's old one that has reductions. (Push button cases) it engages 4wd then disengages 3 times then thats it, fiddled with the elec plugs and tried switching to 4wd with some movement but still no go.



Help please! Was only meant to be a simple swap.

[Bugsta]

Have you tried the motor/switch in different positions? From when I played with mine, I think thats important. I actually deduced how it worked and moved the selector. I set the rotating switch accordingly and it worked first go.

edit: Set the selector to one end (not the middle) and the switch can only be in one of 2 positions... one side or the other of the notch. If one doesn't work, try the other.

[Skippy]

Which is the motor switch? All I did was swap the Speedo sensor and the sensor closest to the front of the car.

[Bugsta]

Ahh ok, then what I said isn't relevant. Motor comes apart when you crack the box open. I made the assumption that some of the bits you swapped were internals.

[zukenutter]

What are the 4WD and LOW lights in the instrument cluster doing?

Was your standard case working?

[Skippy]

When i push 4wd it flashes the whole time clicks and carries on. LOW wont work cause 4wd isnt on, it flashes and beeps aswell.

Yes my standard case was fine, just swapped it to save pulling them to pieces. Never pulled a case like this apart only LJ50's and 80's.

Im thinking its something to do with the solenoid or whatever it is hanging off the case.

[zukenutter]

Skippy wrote:

When i push 4wd it flashes the whole time clicks and carries on. LOW wont work cause 4wd isnt on, it flashes and beeps aswell.

Yes my standard case was fine, just swapped it to save pulling them to pieces. Never pulled a case like this apart only LJ50's and 80's.

Im thinking its something to do with the solenoid or whatever it is hanging off the case.

How recently had you selected 4WD on it?
Things to check;
Vacuum hoses to hubs
Check the two wires that would usually come from here, they easily get damaged and cause 4WD to not engage even if they still look connected. Maybe remove Mubby's and swap to the one from the case you removed.

[jimny_timmy]

Bugsta wrote:

Ahh ok, then what I said isn't relevant. Motor comes apart when you crack the box open. I made the assumption that some of the bits you swapped were internals.

Sorry for the hijack....

Can you post up some more info on how you fixed this (pics etc)

Mine won't go into 4x4 either unless I put it into 4H on the fly... Only been like this since I got Josh to put my trialjimny gears in... I hit the case to get it apart and Josh had to hotwire it a bit to get the selector back in the case.

Any info would be helpful cause its a PIA!

[phantom snail]

Most likely solenoid.
I had the exact same problem, and no place would sell me just the solenoid. They wanted to sell me the whole transfer case .. So I had no choice but to buy it
I bought 2 (1 as a spare) from a wrecker in qld ... If you want, I can sell you the spare transfer case with solenoid for $450 inclusive of courier to your door

[zukenutter]

^^ nice try but he already has one that works

[phantom snail]

zukenutter wrote:

^^ nice try but he already has one that works

What are you talking about?
Nice try? Mate, I said "if you want" - no where did I say you must buy .. And I'm offering it at $50 less than what I paid for it.
His transfer case works, but the solenoid might not be. I'm just offering him exactly what I bought when I had the same problem and the option is there for him if he wishes and indeed finds out the solenoid is the issue.
No need for ur derogatory comment bud

[atari4x4]

phantom snail wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

^^ nice try but he already has one that works

No need for ur derogatory comment bud

you do realise this is auszookers, not 3wd craption... derogatory comments is what we do best.

[zukenutter]

phantom snail wrote:

zukenutter wrote:

^^ nice try but he already has one that works

What are you talking about?
Nice try? Mate, I said "if you want" - no where did I say you must buy .. And I'm offering it at $50 less than what I paid for it.
His transfer case works, but the solenoid might not be. I'm just offering him exactly what I bought when I had the same problem and the option is there for him if he wishes and indeed finds out the solenoid is the issue.
No need for ur derogatory comment bud

Settle petal, sorry should have put a smily face or a wink at the end of it... SHEESH!

If you bother to read his comments you'll see that he already has a working transfer as well as the one he's having problems with.
I couldn't give a stuff whether he buys yours or not. Sounds like you got taken for a bit of a ride over the solenoid only availability anyway. I didn't bother saying that in case you were easily offended... turns out I was right.

[zukenutter]

Nice tenth post, way to make friends











NOT!!

[phantom snail]

Lol all good. Just trying to contribute where I can

[Bugsta]

jimny_timmy wrote:

Bugsta wrote:

Ahh ok, then what I said isn't relevant. Motor comes apart when you crack the box open. I made the assumption that some of the bits you swapped were internals.

Sorry for the hijack....

Can you post up some more info on how you fixed this (pics etc)

Mine won't go into 4x4 either unless I put it into 4H on the fly... Only been like this since I got Josh to put my trialjimny gears in... I hit the case to get it apart and Josh had to hotwire it a bit to get the selector back in the case.

Any info would be helpful cause its a PIA!

Not sure if I did take any pics. Too many keyboard wariors on here quick to berate me, (and others) for my 'poor decisions' (in their opinion), so I mostly don't bother any more. If I did, I'll send you some links.

The rotary switch (the round plastic dial with teeth all round and the clock spring) and the selector rod only have a limited movement range, and they must match. I mucked around for ages to work out where it must start and which side of the notch in the housing the spring retaining-tab needed to be. What confused me a little is that when I pulled the rotary switch out, the tab was pressed hard against the notch and it released tension from the clock spring. I now realise this is taken up when the motor overdrives the switch, presumably to ensure positive locking into gear. I am not sure which, and I don't think it matters. From memory I think I pushed the rod in and had the selector rotated clockwise so that the tab was on the left of the notch (Notch at 11:00. Tab at 10:00).

Have a play with the selector and the switch to see which direction the switch needs to go to move the selector. The switch should be able to do a full movement through all 3 positions (2H,4H,4L) within one full rotation and not be hindered by the notch. You may need to pull it out and rotate it one way or the other a bit, and reinsert it a few times, till you get it right.

I did leave the bolts loose on the motor cover so I could reconfigure once I got it refitted and powered but it semed to work fine and has since.

Last piece of advise... Give it a good clean out and regrease with plenty white grease (White Zinc Oxide) It forms a light skin and is more resistant to dirt and water, and is fine for light duty applications like this. Mine had signs of corrosion on the alloy. I may even pull the cap off and run a small bead of sealant.

However... If it is selecting all 3 positions, I wonder though if the motor is the issue. The motor is easy enough to get at though.

[Skippy]

1 day i dont look at this and hell breaks loose

Alright the sensor in you picture zukenutter is smaller on my case, i'd say it's because it's a newer model case. What is it? All i know is it protudes out about 10-15mm and has 2 flats sides on it. Is it ment to be positioned in a particular way when seated?

I've come to the conclusion ( mainly because i got the shits with fiddling around with it till midnight 1 night ) that it woulld be the solenoid thats playing up so best thing to do would be get the gears taken out and put into my case. now to find someone on the coast to swap it all over

Also zukenutter i did go over the vacuum lines and have gone over the wiring and plugs atleast 5 times, all looked about normal to me.

[zukenutter]

Well I'm out of ideas, sorry.
I was basing my suggestions on experiences of the transfer not selecting when I swapped to manual hubs and discovered that the transfer would try to engage 4 and then decide not to when it realised the vacuum in the hubs was not there.
Also based on numerous Jimny owners in the past having the wires on that sensor break connection. It seems any break in the system will cause the transfer to not engage.
Being that you've had it all apart and had the new transfer in transit at some point I thought these would be good things to rule out completely before pulling things apart.

Also some people have had problems with the main vacuum module thingy under the battery but yours was working beforehand, so not likely.

If you want to totally rule out the hubs you could pull the vacuum hoses and totally block the lines to create a definite vacuum as a final check... just a suggestion as most peoples problems have come from the hubs.



Make sure you let us know what was wrong when you find the cause.

[zukenutter]

Here is what I did to rule out the the vacuum lines or hubs being the problem. It tricks the computer into thinking the hubs are engaged.

[Skippy]

I will give this a go.

Also zukenutter, does the bigger tires and so on throw you tripmeter and total km's out. Just that I'm using it to work out my fuel consumption.

[zukenutter]

^^^ Yes, by whatever the difference in tyre circumference is.

As a rough guide for the difference;
215/75R15 = 7%
235/75R15 = 11%
30x9.5R15 = 14%

[Skippy]

So im running 30's which you say is roughly 14 %

Example. The distance is 100km traveled, am i adding 14% to 100km's as its taking longer for the tires to rotate around to where it started.

[zukenutter]

Correct

[Skippy]

Thanks zukenutter, i will give the vacuum hose trick a go once i have finished moving. Had a bit of a squiz under the car again today at work tocheck if there was anything i may have missed.

[Bugsta]

I found that puttinga pipe across the 2 did not work. I had to block them off individually.

[Skippy]

Finally got this problem solved, went over every hose multiple times and everything was good.

The transfer would ingage but the hubs wouldn't lock so the transfer would disengage.

Solution - vacuum solenoid stuffed, this is under the battery and has a little filter on it and a some lines running into a few T-pieces and down to 2 hard lines that run down to the underneath of the car.

How I found this - the 2 hoses that join to the hard lines engage and disengage the hubs which we all know. I pulled one off and pushed 4wd and you will feel a puff of air or a bit of suction.

Had Suzuki look at this in my 30,000 service and they said it was something they were coming across on jimny's they were servicing and having 4wd issues, all in all I was cheering as they claimed it under warranty.