[superduki]

G'day guys,

We've just purchased a Jimny (2005) that doesn't select 4x4 off the buttons.

I'm not familiar with these setups, and I haven't had it in the air yet (tomorrow after work, only picked it up yesterday) to see exactly what is going on. I'll tell you what I can figure so far.

When you push the 4H button, the little green symbol will flash 1-2 times then turn off, same as if you push 4L button for the yellow 4L light.
With the car off, I can hear the actuator on the transfer growling as though it's winding in/around, for around 2-3 seconds, but nothing obviously happens.

I bought the car aware of these problems, and for the AZ trolls, its the same car that jamiec was comparing to his schmick LJ80 he has bought down to Tassie for QLD.

The fella I bought it off told me he has had the transfer out of it and a syncroniser ring replaced in it, but couldn't tell me anymore than that, as he had an 'ol mate' kind of bloke do it, which ultimately hasn't fixed the issue. The last time it was in 4wd, he ripped the wiring off the transfer and it was stuck in 4L, so he 'repaired' it and it came out of 4L but never has been back in. I'm going to look over the wiring properly tomorrow night to make sure he hasn't soldered wrong wires together or hasn't got a good connection.

The other issue is the transfer sounds a bit sizzerly, like a bearing on it's way out, So I'm thinking without ever pulling a Jimny transfer down, it may be a easier / more viable option to obtain a second hand unit and possibly kill two birds with one stone?

If not, does anyone have the schematic of the 4wd control so I can check it out? I'd assume that because I can hear the actuator working, it's more than likely wired correctly and perhaps it's an internal problem?

We bought the car priced accordingly so I'm not fased on a cost with repairs as I strive to do it myself!

Cheers for any info,

Simon.

P.S apart from that, it's got the Jimny wobble, but I used to own a GU patrol with 7' coils (in my hey day) and this has nothing on what that had for a wobble!, So far it's been a pleasure to drive, but I can see why people piss the m13a off, it's pretty underpowered.
However we now have a LWB Sierra, GTi Turbo, Super Carry and the Jimny, so me and the better half have a pretty sweet workshop

[BlueSuzy]

Maybe few ideas simbobII
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=36413

[superduki]

Thanks Timmay! that has given me an awesome insight for diagnosis! did you like my fb pic of them all lined up?!

[BlueSuzy]

superduki wrote:

Thanks Timmay! that has given me an awesome insight for diagnosis! did you like my fb pic of them all lined up?!

No i didnt like it. I loved it

[joel]

mine is 15 000km old and wont engage sometimes, they are great when working.
suzuki has told me its not a problem unless it wont engage at all.
a fix with manual hubs will happen, but than i will have to hop out of the air con.

[BlueSuzy]

Got to love teknolaghey

[zuk85]

I just had as problem with my push button 4wd system "06 jim"

the auto hubs had engaged on there own.... made some pretty bad noises as we were doin 80k's on the main road. pulled it apart and the vacuum lines were blocked up.

have cleaned them out since and have had no troubles. but i think i may have transfer damage. still all enages good but makes some slightly new noises lol.

going manual hubs now. and fix what eva may be wrong inside the transfer, has served us well till this problem. which was not caused by wheeling lol

[joel]

i couldnt dis connect mine on the weekend, had to disconnect the front drive shaft so i could get out onto some decent ground and think of a solution, also had my oil light come on, with only 15 000 km on the clock, i was very doubtful that oil pressure could be a problem.
so i checked the oil, all was good,
tuened the key on and off 6 times, (as stated in the book) and all my woes wnet away,
connected the drive shaft back up and away i went.

[superduki]

Ok, updates,

No photos cause I couldn't be bothered / greasy hands, new phone etc.

Removed the bash plate (aftermarket) that the previous owner has fitted, inspected all the wiring visually. Looks ok. He told me that a while back whilst 4wding, he ripped some wiring out and it was stuck in low 4. They did some trackside repairs and got it to unselect from 4wd, but has never been back in. He took it to a gearbox/transfer specialist, and he pulled the transfer apart, and replaced a 'synchroniser ring'. Not being familiar with the internal setup of the planetry drive system, I didn't think too much into his talk.

Upon visual inspection I notice the 4wd low detent switch (assuming it's the furthermost switch as I'll discuss later) is brand new.

Also noticed that Suzuki in all there wisdom have made the 4WD light and 4L light switch the same, even an identical plug. I swapped the connection in the loom over, thinking it may of been re-installed by the last bloke incorrectly, as I assume the 4wd control module needs to see the 4WD switch activated to know exactly where the motor can stop at???

I removed the black motor housing off the transfer and went in balls deep and pulled the thing apart to grasp an idea of what the fuck Suzuki possibly had in mind by creating this terrible setup, and ran into a bit of a dilemma.

I can manually select 4wd high and low with a screw driver utilising the teeth that the shaft running through the transfer has on it, which I'd assume means the mechanical aspect is fine.

Is anyone on here a Suzuki dealer mechanic? is there a specific way that the little plastic wheel in the motor (with the clock spring type arrangement) is meant to be lined up?

If anyone has had one apart before, you will notice it runs on a circuit board, alot like a sports steering wheel, conventional anti air bag steering wheel horn contacts work. I worked out that the circuit board isn't a complete circle, leading me to think that it drives around on command until the 4wd high or low switch is activated and cuts power to the motor at that point?

Assuming that is the correct operation, I manually wound the transfer into 2wd, and lined the motor and plastic gear drive up best I could in what I assumed is the 2wd position and slammed it back together. It still does the exact same thing. Same noise, everything. Now I can only assume that the wiring is operating fine, as with the motor unbolted off the transfer it moves on 4H command, but probably only 1/5 of a full turn. Then after that you get no response from any button and I had to disconnect it to get it default back. I assume it travels no further as it's not getting feedback from the 4H or 4L switches.

Does anyone know the exact location of where the clock spring type wheel in the motor, with the big ring gear plastic gear type thing is actually meant to line up with the circuit board when being re-installed? I'd assume Suzuki would have a reset type procedure for this or know what marks to line up too. I tried to look for markings but couldn't see anything obvious.

That's about the extent of how far I could go with no manual / knowledge of the complete system.

As for the 4H and 4L switch, which one tee's back into the Grey connector? ones white, and ones grey on the car loom, but both switches are white plugs on the components.

I disconnected the vacuum hubs and tee'd the two lines together at the chassis rail to eliminate the front hubs being the issue.

If that makes any sense to anyone, cheers!! (Being a mechanic, I'm not real good explaining shit, but can understand what I'm looking at).

Simon.

[jimny_timmy]

Mate, have you tried to switch to 4H on the fly?

Edit: I can't get mine into 4x4 at all ate a standstill but can go to 4H at about 50-60km/h, then stop and go to 4L and then to whatever I like as long as I don't drive inbetween.

[superduki]

jimny_timmy wrote:

Mate, have you tried to switch to 4H on the fly?

Edit: I can't get mine into 4x4 at all ate a standstill but can go to 4H at about 50-60km/h, then stop and go to 4L and then to whatever I like as long as I don't drive inbetween.

Because I had the motor off the transfer, I had the little triangulated plate on the drivers side off to witness the gear spline/drive operation, I haven't tried it at that sort of speed, I tried it at 10-15km/h, as it had no oil, but I would like to think it should shift into 4H on the spot, or light rolling as well?? I had the car on the hoist, so it was under no load.

Forgot to mention, once you push the 4H button on the hoist while it's going (10km/h) the front tailshaft engages for 2-3 seconds, then comes back out, and to make it even weirder, the green 4wd light only comes on for half a second as the front shaft DISengages!

Weird stuff!

[zukenutter]

Pm kyzermattingley.

He's had his apart and even converted it to stick shift. He hasn't been on here for a while though.

Check this out, may help

http://www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=31701&p=597246&hilit=Transfer+electric#p597246

[superduki]

zukenutter wrote:

Pm kyzermattingley.

He's had his apart and even converted it to stick shift. He hasn't been on here for a while though.

Check this out, may help

http://www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=31701&p=597246&hilit=Transfer+electric#p597246

Cheers zukenutter, it looks as though he has cut the worm drive part off, but he may have had the electric motor on and off a couple over the years. That's a very light insight to the thought and design that he has gone to with that hybrid case he has ended up with! Good work.

Thanks, Simon.