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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:04 am 
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Hey guys. Wanted to upgrade to 30 x 9.5 tyres from stock tyres and wheels and just wondering if I'm going to need transfer case reduction gears ??

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:13 am 
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Yes, or a 1.0L transfer case. You can drive it with stock gearing, but it will suck big time.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:19 am 
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Yeah I've been looking for a 1L case. But it gets confusing. Switch no switch. Lol I just don't get it

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:30 am 
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Doesn't really matter about the switch. If you get hold of the driveshaft flanges from a 1L you can swap them onto your WT shafts and just bolt them straight up.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:35 am 
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no, you don't need gearing but you will be dumping the clutch a lot, so gearing would be better

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:38 am 
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Switch means you can use the flanges of your old tcase to make it bolt straight in. The non-switch cases have different size shafts so you can't do this.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 12:05 pm 
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And I'm pretty sure that non switch 1L are a smaller different size case

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 1:18 pm 
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rob45x wrote:
But it gets confusing. Switch no switch. Lol I just don't get it

No confusion at all, you have a 4wd light on your instrument panel, so you need a switch to operate the light!!! If you had read any of the posts about 1.0lt cases, you would have read that the switched case is the easiest to put in a WT. Mention of the Non Switched case is usually only that it is the case to steer clear of to avoid installation dramas. But as Scrawn said, if you also have the driveshafts with the non switch case, then it will bolt straight in using halves of the F and R driveshaft and the yoke off the jackshaft.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 1:23 pm 
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Ok ill have to keep my eye open for a 1L case

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 3:37 pm 
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Im going with 4.9's for my 30's

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 4:43 pm 
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Depends how you wheel it. I ran 30s on my 1l Sierra with no gearing (it's probably worth noting that 1ls are quite a bit lower geared from the factory) and it was all right, a bit slow on the road but would still do highway speeds. For pretty much everything I did (lots and lots of sand) it was fine but the second you were doing technical stuff it was painful, but then it was on 26" tyres too. I always meant to fit some 4.556 diff gears but it doesn't look like that's going to happen now.

The non-switch tcase is geared roughly 10% lower than the switched case in low range but has the same highrange so that's the one I'd pick. It is harder to fit but if your unis need doing then it's practically no more work. :)

If I had the opportunity then I would have picked 235/75 mud tyres on sierra rims or 205r16s on LJ/16" sierra rims instead of the 30s on 15x7s.

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:48 pm 
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sideways wrote:
If I had the opportunity then I would have picked 235/75 mud tyres on sierra rims or 205r16s on LJ/16" sierra rims instead of the 30s on 15x7s.


I think i should be able to fit some 235/75's on 15x7 rims?

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:01 pm 
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Yep you will^

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 6:15 pm 
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ok coolies. ive got some second hand rims organised. Just gotta hunt for the transfer case now

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:38 pm 
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rob45x wrote:
sideways wrote:
If I had the opportunity then I would have picked 235/75 mud tyres on sierra rims or 205r16s on LJ/16" sierra rims instead of the 30s on 15x7s.


I think i should be able to fit some 235/75's on 15x7 rims?


Yeah but 7" rim is pretty wide for that size, a 5.5" rim will hold onto the tyre better and look more standard. :D

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:51 pm 
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i was told 235's need at least 6 inch wide??

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm 
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rob45x wrote:
i was told 235's need at least 6 inch wide??


If you're doing it by the book, plenty of people run them on standard rims though. A friend of mine runs them like that and it works really well for him. :)

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:54 pm 
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And they won't roll off a 5.5 wide rim when you drop the pressures ??

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:25 pm 
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Sorry to jump in. What if I have a set of 15x7? If I run 235 75 15, does it also need gearing?

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:42 am 
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defibros wrote:
Sorry to jump in. What if I have a set of 15x7? If I run 235 75 15, does it also need gearing?


I run 235/75R15's on 15x7's with std transfer case gears and 4.1 (Maruti) diff gears. Its ok but still needs to be a bit lower geared IMHO, expecially in low range.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 8:28 am 
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rob45x wrote:
And they won't roll off a 5.5 wide rim when you drop the pressures ??

The narrower the rim - the more pressure applied to the bead = less chance of rolling the tyre off the rim when deflated.

IMO 15x7" is a bit wide for 235/75R15.

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:10 pm 
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sideways wrote:
The non-switch tcase is geared roughly 10% lower than the switched case in low range but has the same highrange so that's the one I'd pick. It is harder to fit but if your unis need doing then it's practically no more work. :)


1.0L non switch has a high range ratio of 1.590:1 and a low range of 2.558:1.

1.0L switch has a high range ratio of 1.580:1 and a low range of 2.511:1.

Nowhere near 10% lower!!!!!

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:23 pm 
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~1.9% lower.... :P

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Post Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:31 pm 
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303zuke wrote:
sideways wrote:
The non-switch tcase is geared roughly 10% lower than the switched case in low range but has the same highrange so that's the one I'd pick. It is harder to fit but if your unis need doing then it's practically no more work. :)


1.0L non switch has a high range ratio of 1.590:1 and a low range of 2.558:1.

1.0L switch has a high range ratio of 1.580:1 and a low range of 2.511:1.

Nowhere near 10% lower!!!!!


My Suzuki FSM (early '80s) lists the low range ratio as 2.716:1. What are your sources?

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 6:32 am 
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http://www.facebook.com/download/169959 ... mation.pdf

This info suggests a 12% reduction, except later model.
If it will open.


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Post Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:41 am 
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Its a comparison between low ranges of the 1L cases chris. That source says the same as 303, with the 1L cases either having a 2.558:1 or 2.511:1 ratios. Nice doco tho!

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:33 pm 
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I worked out a 1ltr trans was 12% reduction high and low when i ran one.

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Post Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:52 pm 
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SierraDan wrote:
I worked out a 1ltr trans was 12% reduction high and low when i ran one.


do you still run the 1L case or have u upgraded to Low range gears etc??

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Post Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:48 pm 
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What's your first gear ratio?

Overall drive ratio = Gearbox ratio*tcase ratio*diff ratio

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Post Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 12:39 am 
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hillbilly wrote:
i've been inquiring into vitara diff centres into a sierra diff to try get the reduction i'm after ....the 1litre transfere is my final option, i was going to ask if anyone knows the equation ......if lj50 transfere is 3:1 (near enough)......what would my final drive comparison be with vitara 5:12 diff centres (i would like to keep running lj50 transfer if i could).....my current life expectancy out of a 50 transfer is 1 day


Just fit a bloody Sierra transfer before you mash all the LJ50 transfers in Aus. :?

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