Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 2401 Location: Perth
Vehicle: LPG 1.6 Sierra
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:50 pm
I'm wondering hard how cast alloy is to weld, because if I can i'd like to have this throttle body welded directly to this intake manifold. I do have a DIY adaptor plate, although no plate = more vertical clearance (current setup is rubbing on bonnet underside). But - the cast walls are thin, it'd be hard to poke a tig welder around the joint, and i'm scared that the throttle body may warp slightly enough to become useless.
What do you guys think? Get it done or quit while i'm ahead?
Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 2401 Location: Perth
Vehicle: LPG 1.6 Sierra
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 3:07 pm
Here's my problem - i'm getting a little bit of rub on the underside of my bonnet from this point on the air hat.
The intake setup in the first post photo is 15mm lower than in the second pic - put in an adaptor plate and it's taking away a clearance advantage I could gain.
Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 5517 Location: Holland Park
Vehicle: Awesome!!
Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 4:15 pm
If rubbing/clearance is an issue why not lower your engine by elongating or re-drilling the mounts? Wonder how good those alloy brazing rods would work on this?
I just went to a workshop in Wangara - he said the best idea would be to keep it two piece for ease of repair, to plane off the the cast carby base plate and weld on a new adaptor face. Makes sense - then i'd have plenty of clearance up my sleeve. But, I got the idea he'd rather someone else do the welding... I guess welding 2mm cast alloy isn't exactly childs play. But I've seen enough welding in the last year to know it can be done.
If you can find a spare manifold and dont mind experimenting- I have a spare tin of the "devcon-ish" stuff we use to glue drill rods to hammers for blast hole drilling.
The "devcon-"ish stuff was so strong it would hold for thousands of hours of use on a drill rig- being hammered continually the whole time. To remove the hammer or coupling when it failed the fitters would have to heat it up with an oxy torch until the steel of the hammer assembly and drill tube were cherry red- then use reverse rotation to unscrew them. Even then, quite often the steel drill tube failed before the "devconish" stuff let go.
I reckon if you can find an old manifold- we can do a cut- and - shut and glue it together and see what happens.
If it works- all is good If it doesnt- well, bung the original manifold back on, and think again.
Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:30 pm Posts: 2401 Location: Perth
Vehicle: LPG 1.6 Sierra
Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:02 am
missmyljdaze wrote:
How about devcon or similar? ... If it works- all is good If it doesnt- well, bung the original manifold back on, and think again.
gimme a call!
Stephen.
I have a plan, but two heads are better than one - i'll buzz ya when i'm back. I'll give it a try around middle of the month - work will have me in Exmouth for a week or so in the meantime.
Joined: Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:30 pm Posts: 5517 Location: Holland Park
Vehicle: Awesome!!
Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 8:27 pm
Wonder how hard it would be to modify the manifold for sidedraft entry like the guys do in the states for the my-side harley carb kits. Flow characteristics would improve nicely over the downdraft stock setup.
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