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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:45 am 
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Ok so i have been on the hunt for a stronger cv option for richy (1ltr nt tin top)
now i have been told that 1300 NT cv's are a direct drop in and are stronger..
so this got me thinking..
if i change the side gears in the diff to 26 spline, and get some cro-mo's whats stoping me loping a small amount off the spline (getting the spline extended if need be) and droping them in??
as far as i am aware all the bells on the end of suzuki diffs are the same??

just a idea, but would work out pretty cheep for a good front end!

Phil

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:17 pm 
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This won't work. The OD of the inner axle is roughly the same as the root of the splines, so there is no material to cut a longer spline in.

Some inner axles might be the same od as the spline full length, but this is lazy axle machining and weaker.

Cutting splines in the hard state is pretty tough, so you'd really need to anneal first.

All up, cheaper and better to get new inners made up for NT, or upgrade to WT

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:21 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
This won't work. The OD of the inner axle is roughly the same as the root of the splines, so there is no material to cut a longer spline in.

Some inner axles might be the same od as the spline full length, but this is lazy axle machining and weaker.

Cutting splines in the hard state is pretty tough, so you'd really need to anneal first.

All up, cheaper and better to get new inners made up for NT, or upgrade to WT


i was hopeing you would tell me if it would work or not!
i had scene some pics of spine on a cromo cut quite long 4inch or so... but may have not been suzuki ones.
guess some 1300 ones will have to do the job for now!
cheers

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:31 pm 
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I ran nt 1.3 cvs in Piggles for quite a while with no problems.

The long splines you speak of are often used in the rear end, where custom axles might be made for a few applications.

Steve

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:13 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
I ran nt 1.3 cvs in Piggles for quite a while with no problems.

The long splines you speak of are often used in the rear end, where custom axles might be made for a few applications.

Steve


Or for the old style KAM lockers and similar.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:35 pm 
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The gwagen uses a long spline for locker engagement too.

Steve

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:42 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
Some inner axles might be the same od as the spline full length, but this is lazy axle machining and weaker.


Lockdup, from what I have seen, do an axle that has the same OD as the splines. The Suzuki fronts are not a 'performance' axle and the fact they are not necked down and extra 2mm overall will not make a lick of difference to the Suzuki axles strength.

Gwagensteve wrote:
Cutting splines in the hard state is pretty tough, so you'd really need to anneal first.


Currie, who make a heap of aftermarket axle parts, offer axles that are hardened then cut to whatever length and spline you want without annealing. Annealing should be done for use with HSS cutters but with the correct insert tooling that will not be needed.

If you really want to keep it narrrow track go for a set of NT 1.3 housings and virtually bolt them in.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:03 pm 
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He likes the small centres

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:20 pm 
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And I'm not sure how that helps add cv strength when 1.3 nt axles drop in to the 1.0 housing.

Whilst your points are valid joe, it's probably easier to buy the hd cvs separately and get new inner axles made from scratch.

Just my opinion.

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:14 pm 
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thanks for all the info guys.
I will grab a few sets of 1300 nt axels/cvs for now.
tassie conditions don't usually require cromos, but future proofing is usually good

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 9:21 pm 
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1.3 NT axle/cvs keeps it cheap, too,
people throw out NT bits, to fit WT.
I ran my Sierra on cast off parts for years

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 6:58 am 
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christover1 wrote:
1.3 NT axle/cvs keeps it cheap, too,
people throw out NT bits, to fit WT.
I ran my Sierra on cast off parts for years


:) thats the way

i will keep my eye out for a few sets!
32's and a locked front diff might make short work of them..

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Post Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 7:05 am 
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Sure will.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 12:00 pm 
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any one had success with these?
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... rings.html

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 1:03 pm 
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Ajsr ran them for a while with no problems.
Might be enough for your application.

Steve

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 3:57 pm 
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Thanks for the info steve! you have helped me a bunch!
sounds like a done thing to me! will order some rings and pick up some cv's
i have no plan to go to a super aggressive tire (atm), or any more power.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 5:16 pm 
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Just to be clear, I don't think rings are an especially good solution for strengthening the front axle, but in keeping with the low budget nature of your build I think they are the best option.

Just putting that out there. For a WT I'd step straight to DTs every time.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 5:55 pm 
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yeah i am hearing you there!
speeking with a few other suzuki drivers down here, we only know of a few busted cv's and that was from some pretty hard abuse and much bigger power! tassie as you would know is not where near as hard on driveline as say NSW

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 7:11 pm 
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:beer: Gwagensteve shit ur profile pic is prity :beer: :beer:

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 7:27 pm 
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I'm quite fond of Ms Morassi.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 7:32 pm 
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His old profile pic was better IMO.

Phil, search on some forums that have been around since forever (older than AZ), I've found info on those whilst searching for other stuff before. :)

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:12 am 
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sideways, i 100% here you! what used to work 10 years ago, still works.. maby not as well as some other things that have been done since!
my transfer for instance. was a total of $50 for reduction gears, Not as good as 6.5's but about $650 cheaper all up!
Phil

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:19 am 
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I ran 31s on my 1.3 NT locked front and rear and didnt break it. (I only had the car a little over a year though)
The narrow track width helps soooo much on rutted tracks its not funny.
The inside of the tires grab the inside walls of the ruts, allowing me to keep up with the likes of Steve alot of the time and occasionally out drive them in some situations.
This is why AJSR has kept the NT rear.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:25 am 
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^X2 Neo.

My car was more capable in mud 1.0 NT with a welded rear than it was WT locked/locked, on the same sized tyre. I upgraded to 1.3 NT Cv's and had no problem with breakage on 34" Swampers. I broke rear axles, not front.

Fell over a lot though. :D

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:16 pm 
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So who's gonna buy my nt cvs

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 6:54 am 
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Nik ran those rings years ago in his old zuk with 32s n locked front, don't think he broke a cv, send him a pm on fb phil

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 7:18 am 
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I agree 100% with the narrow track think, after just one run i can tell how much better it is.. made twin locked gq's on 35's look a little silly!
yeah thanks parry the rings will be the go! will order them and do conversion in early jan!

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