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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 6:58 am 
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Knocked this up last night at work. I'm fitting a SV620 fuel tank into the back end of my LWB so after going to all the effort of fitting the tank I thought i'd vetter protect it.

Still gotta weld it up test fitted this morning and there is a 10mm gap between the bottom of the tank and the guard so hopefully works well. Its made out of 3mm mild.

PS. Sorry Fatzook I mostly stole the Suzi 's' idea off you.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:45 am 
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hell yeah! good job bud

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 8:03 am 
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Looks good but was it really that heavy you had to cut wholes in the bottom? It will have sort of like a cheese grater effect now instead of a nice smooth surface to slide over.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 8:42 am 
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Cheers guys.
Nah not heavy at all maybe 8kgs. Holes are there to drain water and what not out. Its up pretty high and close to the rear diff so hopefully shouldn't change how it slides over anything. But if it does at least its the guard and not my fuel tank haha

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 11:48 am 
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looks good.

What are you doing to mount it to the tank/ frame?

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:11 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
looks good.

What are you doing to mount it to the tank/ frame?


Yeah cheers Pete. I'm more then happy with the result pompoms



There a two 40mm lips to be welded and gusseted on yet. Front and back and they'll use the same mounting points as the tank.

As for the mounting points on the chassis I had to cut out the factory cross member and using a length of rhs at the back and maybe even the front yet to get the required width for the tank. Once I'm happy with a location (making sure its not to far forward or backwards) I am going to mark where the factory filler neck meets the guard and tank. And relocate the fuel tanks filler hole.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:33 pm 
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MIG or TIG welding it?

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 1:01 pm 
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The tank is being TIG I believe my mates a boiler maker and i designated him to do it lol. But the guard is being MIG welded.

Why is that?

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 1:35 pm 
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Just curious. Thats alot of welding is all, so make sure you take it easy.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 1:42 pm 
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Ohh ok I'm with yah. Yeah ideally it would have been folded and stitched in the corners only but I don't have the facilities to do so. When I weld it up fully i'll be sure to brace it and avoid big runs so it doesn't warp.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 1:45 pm 
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Tack it to a bench in all 4 corners before you weld it. Let it cool down before breaking the tacks.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 1:53 pm 
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Alright will do thanks for the advice :) It was going to end poorly otherwise haha

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 4:19 pm 
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jim_dover wrote:
Alright will do thanks for the advice :) It was going to end poorly otherwise haha



If you need a hand let me know.

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 5:48 pm 
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Just an idea but maybe you should cut some holes in the corners. Cause when you get mud in between the tank and guard how will you get it out??? If you have holes in the corner you can just put the hose in and wash it out

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Post Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 6:09 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
jim_dover wrote:
Alright will do thanks for the advice :) It was going to end poorly otherwise haha



If you need a hand let me know.



Cheers mate will do.



TZAR wrote:
Just an idea but maybe you should cut some holes in the corners. Cause when you get mud in between the tank and guard how will you get it out??? If you have holes in the corner you can just put the hose in and wash it out


Already done :D the diff side of the guard has a 90mm gap the width of the tank for flushing it out.

Cheers anyway

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Post Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 10:52 am 
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bloody cool

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 2:25 am 
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awesome work mate 8)

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 4:12 am 
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Thanks guys. Finally got around to fitting the tank and painting up the gaurd.
Only have photos of it painted not of it installed i'll grab some in the next few days.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 4:15 am 
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Still have to mark and plumb into the factory filler neck though but shouldn't take much ended up sitting about 60mm lower then a standard tank and with about 15-20ltrs or so of added fuel I think its worth the sacrifice.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 10:06 am 
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That turned out great!!

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Post Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:30 pm 
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Thanks mate. I'm pretty happy with the results. Espically since all up including the tank, steel plate (cut at work), rhs and bolts. Cost just over $140. Slapped a new EFI pump in for $90 and all sorted. Mounting it up this Tuesday just had to make a new rear cross memeber maybe a bit of over kill but hay do it right once and forget about it.

Heres the new rear cross member the notches at the ends will sit up against the bottom of the chassis rail. At this point looks like the front mounting points will come close to lining up :)
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Post Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:39 pm 
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Also the tank as standard I believe is a 65ltr now it had to be bashed in the sides the smallest amount (about 10-15mm a side) to fit between the chassis rails. So probably looking around the 58-61 litre mark being very conservative. If I was running body lift plumbing this into the factory filler neck would be VERY easy. Just in case anyone was thinking about this tank to use when doing an EFI motor upgrade. And with body lift the tank could sit a lot higher and the added capacity will be worth it once she is done :)

Thanks for all the positive feed back guys :)

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:41 pm 
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SV tanks are 70 litres :wink:

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:55 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
SV tanks are 70 litres :wink:



Ohh really great even better then I thought :)

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:52 pm 
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Looks great, and that paint looks pretty flash too

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Post Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 4:55 pm 
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Mint cammo job, what did you use for a stencil?

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:04 pm 
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jonno_racing wrote:
Mint cammo job



Agreed. Should spray the whole car like that Armsup

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:51 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
jonno_racing wrote:
Mint cammo job



Agreed. Should spray the whole car like that Armsup

i am doing my bar work/tray on my lwb in cammo, was going to be black, but black is a bit boring!
This is my toolbox i did ages ago, the cammo is a bit to tight, but in better light it looks the goods!

I used a furn for this one! same method i use for my nerf guns.
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Sorry for the hijack!

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Post Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 6:09 pm 
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Highjack cont.

Why haven't you painted richie the same way? Would hide the battle scars a bit better :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 8:29 am 
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Fatzook wrote:
Highjack cont.

Why haven't you painted richie the same way? Would hide the battle scars a bit better :lol:


then i would loose him in the bush!
nah its a whole lot of time and effort! i plan on keeping my LWB for a long time so will be worth it! haven't ever done it with a spray gun but should be a fair bit easier with adjustable paint flow.

i was thinking of doing all the bolt on bits, like door hinges, bar work, outside tube of rear tray etc in a black based cammo and the cab Burnt orange. well that's the plan.

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