[douglasgiersch]

Right so I have no hoses or cables to suite my heater box and its been plastic welded closed its really hard to find a parts car in my areas but have found a 1.3 wide track hard top sitting on its chassis with engine out. I will hopefully eventually put wt diffs under my zook so be happy to already have the diffs to build up/shave ect so was thinking of buying the whole car now I need a heap of just odd parts like floor bungs bonnet latch few plastics and that so having all that will be handy too if they fit. Back on topic can I put the 1.3 heater box in my 1L? Do wt and nt share the same uni size and type (can I put wt flange on my drive shafts (they have been extended and shortened to suit engine transfer. It will work out cheaper for me to buy the car for even 250 bucks versus postage on all the odds and ends I would have to buy plus the hassles of buying bits online. Figure I chould sell of bits I can't use and make some money to cover my loses ie hardtop back door glass ect.

[dougies_tx5turbo]

Just buy the whole thing for that price, and make the things that you need fit. uni's are the same that I know of and I'm pretty sure 1L bungs are a different size.

[Gwagensteve]

It's definitely worth buying the whole car for that price. Having a parts car makes life easy.

However, it's not going to help you with your current problems. Basically, a 1.3 heater box won't fit a 1.0. It might bolt in place (although the tunnel is a different shape, so this isn't guaranteed), but the arrangement of all the vents and control cables is different, so getting it to work once it's installed is going to do your head in.

Anything is possible with enough time and effort, but I wouldn't advise it. I've spent hours and hours trying to get the 1.0 control cables to operate a 1.0 heater box properly, let alone a 1.3 box which needs the controls to run in a different way/order. Youd basically have to swap in the whole 1.3 dash, dash support bars etc.... and then you'd want the 1.3 wiring loom as well to run everything, then you need a 1.3 alternator with an internal regulator etc etc, and then you'd have to look at the gross 1.3 WT dash every day.

1.0 uni's are different to 1.3. They are physically the same size, but 1.0's have internal circlips and 1.3's have external circlips. Some people have made 1/2 and 1/2 unis up (including me) but I've found it a bit hit and miss. I fyou start with new unis of the same brand, it might work OK - you swap two caps on each cross to internal clip and reassemble.

I can't recall if WT pinion flanges will fit on 1.0 diffs, but want to say the answer is no. It's an expensive exercise to do that though, as it's not a remove and replace job - pinion preload would need to be checked - not worth it for axles you don't want to keep long term.

If you have a "switch light" transfer case you can swap flanges, but then you'll loose your handbrake.

I'm 99% certain 1.0 floor bungs are the same size as 1.3.

[douglasgiersch]

From the sounds of all that the odds and end bits I want won't be an easy swap. It is diff less so I guess when the time comes I can just buy the diffs, already got to much scrap metal laying around already might just search around for a nt it's so hard to get decent parts or whole cars locally because the high number of farmers using the from spray rigs or checking rice paddies. Thanks for the help doug and Steve save myself a fair bit of effort.