[macguyverjimny]

Hi guys

Those of you that have 215 75 r15 tires with a 40mm (2") lift, does the bashing of rocks on the belly of the jimny get any better? I mean its imposible to have it totally gone, i was just curious coz its realy anoying when i hear some rocks catching underneath on the cups where the radius arms are attached to the chassis,


Thank you

[Mike57]

You can get some skids for those points and stop worrying about it. I have 215's with 40mm lift and by picking the right line rarely have anything hit but if it does it is usually the radius arms. A transfer case bash plate is recommended though.

[Dan85]

I've been looking at those skids aswell and I want some. Do you have an issues with the 215's scrubbing? I'm thinking of going the 215's then getting my lift later.

[Travis]

215s won't be a problem stock....skid plates will protect underneath

[Dan85]

I was under the jimny last weekend and the transfer looks exposed especially the wires going into it. Thanks for the info re 215's

[macguyverjimny]

If i may add to quenstion on the 215 on stock suspention is that when the front coils conpresses then the tire hit the wheel arch before the bumstop hits on the chassis. So the bumstop become useless for that size without a lift.


And i do have the neccesarry tc case bash plate aswell as protectors where the radius arms is attach to the chassis, but im also in the market for a 40mm lift

[-QIK-]

I dont get rocks hitting the bottom of my Jimny..............









Oh, wait a sec....... I have a 5 inch lift and 30 inch muddies!


I do have a bash gaurd on my transfer case. Bought it here: http://www.offroad-armory.com/store/ind ... uct_id=237

But, I bought it along with the transfer case mount. Saved on postage a little.

[brindog]

^^

[Gwagensteve]

macguyverjimny, it might help if you post some photos of the terrain you're driving so we can get an idea of what you're dealing with.

Basically, lifting the car will help prevent hitting the underside on things, and the more you lift the less things you hit, but some other things happen at the same time.

The more you lift, the less stable your car becomes.
The more you lift, the more you will try more difficult terrain because your car isn't hitting underneath as much.

Are you in a club? Are you going driving with other suzukis? It seems from this question, and your questions about gearing/clutch use that you need some hands-on help from people with a similar car to yours.

Other than the alloy transfer case, there isn't much under the car that can be damaged from low-speed contact with rocks. I wouldn't be too concerned. If you are driving in rocky terrain, hitting something under your car is impossible to avoid. My car has no paint on any of the lower surfaces from contact with the ground, but it's not really a problem. Are you using a spotter (another person outside the car) to assist in directing you through rocky terrain? Having a good spotter who you trust can make a huge difference to where you are able to drive because they can see everything that's going on.

Steve.

[BertZook]

when I was stock I did hit the radius arms/chasis stop lots of times. Once I got the lift the hitting was reduced and later when I got the 215's it was even less... (of course by driving the same-ish terrains). But I do hit it every now and then, depending on how hard is the track, or more likely, how bad did I choose my line

like gwagensteve says, choosing a better line, spotter, experience, helps too

but I will for sure instal some guards/skid plates on those points. They sell those everywhere, and Ill get some once I got enough money to spend on my car

same as a transfer skid plate.

oh and btw I did manage to hit my fuel tank once too :/ had a closer encounter with a pointy rock that came out of nowhere after a little drop step.... but it is pretty hard to hit the fuel tank on a jimny on normal-ish terrain, unlesss ur going too harcore

[31zook]

A Sierra tcase swap picks it up above the chassis line

And cutting your radius arm mounts off will fix the rock anchor situation...

[Dan85]

where is the best place to buy the under car armour. Ive looked at outdoor auto, jimny bits, offroad armoury and MIC. any better or worse than the others?

[jimmy91]

i put 215/75 on mine (newer style jimny) and they hit at full on lock on front bar. 2mins with tin snips and it was all sweet, have a 50 mm lift now and i have never bottomed out. went threw all the easier tracks at cityview and it was fine. its better on the beach now aswell as my towbar would drag

[Scales]

Dan85 wrote:

where is the best place to buy the under car armour. Ive looked at outdoor auto, jimny bits, offroad armoury and MIC. any better or worse than the others?

From what i've seen of all these mob's they are all using the same armour sourced from the same place. (apart from MIC which is made by them, and i cant comment)

The T-case bash plates you see everywhere and rad arm guards are identical everywhere you go. Same as the lower shock mount guards too i would wager.


So go with whoever is cheapest IMO. Got my gear from JB

[zukenutter]

Yeah lots of suppliers have the same stuff and it's worth shopping around. I like to support local guys if I can, particularly if they're producing locally.
Being that we are talking about armour, Outdoor Auto have been using my Jimny for setting up production/jigs for sliders. Their production run will be plated instead of the ribbing this set has, these are super strong and will easily hold my weight and would take some serious punishment.

[Dan85]

Thanks guys. Ill have a look around see what's cheapest. The only part I'm really concerned about is the transfer it and the wires look very precarious where they are

[zukenutter]

The wires do create some issues and I know of a couple of AZers who have had troubles with this in difficult situations. Push button transfers should definitely be protected.

[Scales]

I think my t-case plate from JB was around the 80-100 mark, but i had ordered some other stuff as well so postage didnt hurt as bad.

Nutter, my green eyed monster is staring at those sliders... prick. any idea how many millions Tim is gonna slug for those?

[zukenutter]

The photo doesn't do them justice, these look truly wicked and suited the roof basket really well.
Dunno how much they'll be, I know a lot of work went into getting them set-up but I also know Tim is quite conscious of pricing them right. This set have been shipped to a customer already, I'm not in a hurry at the moment so was happy for them to be sent to somebody else.

What do sliders usually sell for? Obviously it's all relative depending on the quality.

[brindog]

Them sliders look good, but it looks as though you are loosing quite a bit of ground clearance. You need to cut plastic and get them higher.
Saying I would still test them free of charge

[zukenutter]

If I were to build my own that's the way I'd go but apart from a few of us on here, most people would prefer to not cut off the plastic sills. It's really the mounting system that always limits ground clearance though and if you're mounting off the chassis you need space for body flex.

[BertZook]

those sliders look bit better than the desing they have i their website for a while

witch price says 880$, so IM guessing the new ones should be around the same

[zukenutter]

I'd guess more because these new ones are a heap better than those

[Scales]

how were they mounted dude, same as the MIC jobbys with the body mount tubes/bushes? or are they a bit more solid?

[zukenutter]

Yep body mounts, it surprised me how solid this method could be.