[Daves4wd]

Hi guys and girls well I thought I broke a cv on the weekend ended up being the short side axel I've pulled it all a part and now wondering how to get the chunk in the center out I've tryed pulling it out with pliers but no good any tricks please share thanks in advance


I've tried a search but nothing come up as I don't think I'm very good with wording

Figured I'd make it easier for a search

[jdk81]

How long of a piece are we talking about?
Is it a stub inside the centre, and centre is out of the car?
Or, is the axle in the housing, preventing you removing the centre and you cant remove it?

[Fatzook]

TIG weld a bit of bar to it, then use that as a handle.

[Daves4wd]

The center is out in uploading pics as we speak I've tried with pointy nose plies but its pretty well stuck inn there hahaha





And I don't have a rig welder man I need to get some good tools and shit hahah would a mig do it??

[tanshi]

might punch it out from the other side with a long screw driver?

[SierraDan]

Drill/tap a hole/thread in the axle
Get a bit of flat bar drill a hole.
Put flat bar over axle.
Wind a bolt into the axle through the flat bar till the axle pops out.

(if the clearance is there)

[Daves4wd]

Hmmm I don't think ill be able to drill a hole in it it's not flat enough to get the hole started there all good ideas just remembered I know a bloke with a tig welder see if he can do it

Can't get to it from the other side the pins are blocking it

[Fatzook]

Daves4wd wrote:

Can't get to it from the other side the pins are blocking it

You might have to pull the hemisphere out of the carrier, and take the side gear out. Hopefully the splines aren't munted.

Also it looks like you have some rust on the bearing, and some water near the axle. Did you have a diff breather fitted?

[Gwagensteve]

I've had this happen a number of times and I've never been able to get the stub out without pulling the centre out, removing the ring gear and removing the cross pins. There's just not enough room to get anything between the pins.

I can confirm it takes 3 hours to do trackside,





But only 2 hours to do with a car on a trailer, but hungover

Oh for a full spool so there's no cross pins to contend with.

I agree that drilling and tapping might work if you can get a drill started in the broken stub. Never tried it.

Steve

[Daves4wd]

Ill give the welder trick a shot or try the puller thingo If it don't work ill just set it up for chromos and if I have to pull it apart hahhaah....
There's a little surface rust on it but it sat for a week before I put it in its got diff breathers there's no water in the oil bu it was old


Ill let you guys know what works best hahah what axel is that Steve?? You could drill and tap that out for sure

[Gwagensteve]

That was a 1.0 litre rear, but I've gone through the same thing with a 1.3 WT more than once.

I haven't seen an inner axle break on the front, it was always CV's for us. Did you have the wheels straightish when it went? My theory is that the CV's are weaker than the stock axles if the wheels are turned, but the axles are stronger than the CV's with the wheels straight.

Time for chromo Dave, I think.

Steve.

[salih]

Dave Dave will u ever learn.... Stop wheeling with out cromos ur not lucky mate

[Ace]

I vote "Fatzook" tig a bit of 16 to 20mm onto it around 300 long - use this as a basis for a jimmy slide hammer to remove. If it wont "hammer" out possibly the splines are twisted. wrap the area in cloth and mig if ya game. Chuck it in a mill, center drills don't really care if its a flat surface or not - then drill n tap and jimmy slide hammer from there if you don't have acess to a welder

[Fatzook]

Ace wrote:

I vote "Fatzook" tig a bit of 16 to 20mm onto it around 300 long

happy to do the job. But the 2500km space between Dave and I may be an issue

[Ace]

Sorry man more your opinion than volunteering you for the job....

[SierraDan]

Gwagensteve wrote:

I agree that drilling and tapping might work if you can get a drill started in the broken stub. Never tried it.

Steve

I pulled a stub out of a Toy Dirty 30 CV. I used an 8mm carbide slot drill to make a cavity then opened it up with a drill then tapped an M10 thread into it.

[Ace]

"Carbide slot drill" = carbide 2 flute cutter if I am not mistaken.

I resort to carbide cutters if tip tools don't go down small enough ie making a 4mm slot in a bearing outer - there's no fkn way these are required to drill and tap the axle in question. Aftermarket ones are only 4130 to 4140 and hardened on the "outside" not the middle where you are drilling and while the are relatively hard, they arn't that bad

[SierraDan]

Ace wrote:

"Carbide slot drill" = carbide 2 flute cutter if I am not mistaken.

I resort to carbide cutters if tip tools don't go down small enough ie making a 4mm slot in a bearing outer - there's no fkn way these are required to drill and tap the axle in question. Aftermarket ones are only 4130 to 4140 and hardened on the "outside" not the middle where you are drilling and while the are relatively hard, they arn't that bad

we just call them slot drills at work because they only get used for slots and doesnt confuse the stoooopids.

No they aren't required for the stock axle. I just made the mention for the pic posted which was 4340 and the drill could not open it up as easily.

[Daves4wd]

Fatzook your the man of the hour!!! Tig a smallish bold on the stub and the use a slid hammer or a pry bar and shell fly over your head when it comes out


I'd say yes to drilling if its a flat surface when the surface is no where near flat just weld it hahah thanks for all the input ill upload a pic of the chunk


Salih you should've seen this hill it was off its head hahah

[salih]

At least u had fun Doing it !!

[Daves4wd]

Fun is not the word it was crazy wicked fun hahah did you try call me on private number?? I was working on the car it's all back togeather now hahah not a bad turn around I reckon

[BlueSuzy]

Does the spider gear look ok?

When i did mine it was cracked

[Daves4wd]

Looked all good If not I guess ill be going chromos sooner rather then later hahah got 26 spline side gears ready to go in once the spool is in the rear just waiting to see if trail tough show a link for Sierra chromos can't find it anywhere hahah sucks

[SierraDan]

I think the chromos are calmini.

Woops had rear axles on my mind

[Fatzook]

LROR
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki/samurai/axles/suzuki-samurai-front-4340-chromoly-birfield-axle-kit-low-range-off-road-sax-4340lr-26-spline.html

Trail tough
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=106&category_id=14&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

[jdk81]

Trail tough axles cost $270 (was special at US$290), and postage cost me $170
I ordered them on the 14th December, and they arrived yesterday. They were out of stock (and hence took their axle webpage down while waiting on stock) and waiting for their supplier to manufacturer them over the holiday period. As we all know, trying to get stuffdone over xmas/new year period is like pushing shit up hill.
Their communication was alright (they responded to my emails in a timely manner, updating me on the situation)

I opted for TT axles based on gwagens ramblings about what the vic guys use with 35" tyres, combined with the advertising on LROR and TT.
LROR state above 33" tyres go to toyota bits, where as TT say they are fine for 35" tyres.

[Daves4wd]

Sweet as thanks for info guys always helpful as always