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Vehicle: Feb 1997 suzuki serria tin top

Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:40 pm 
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I hope this is in the right area to post this in. I have a 1997 sierra coily wagon (tin top). Apparently to only model you should not get. So long story short, two weeks out from going on holiday into the NT with family i stacked my 80 series cruiser, its still rolling but not driving. So i picked up the suzuki on the run as it was to late to back out of the holiday and it come with a road worthy certificate and i needed a car for work. any way 6500klm later the suzuki came back from the NT with a busted rear tail shaft, both shockie towers. dropped alternator and to top it off a bad rattel in the transfer case. As the suzuki was untested before i left for my holiday apart from a couple of trip to work i was a bit worried about the motor. It is factory stock in every way and was running far better after 6500klm of hard work.
Any way CAN I GET AUTO LOCKERS FOR THIS MODEL??????? If you dont want to post a reply here email me at ewurth@live.com

Thanks in advance


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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:45 pm 
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yep, rear only.

lol, thats some bad luck :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:04 pm 
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The little suzuik has been fixed and is running sweet. im currently looking at fitting my 9500lb winch from off my cruiser to a custom bar that my daughter is going to build for me (She is a third year boiler maker) similar to the Xroc bar she has on her Hilux. Fingers crossed i can get her to do a rear bar and a set of sliders as well. So no front lockers ( so has anyone mini spooled one before ) where can i get a rear one from?

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:50 pm 
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Are you talking about minispooling the front? If so, that's a terrible idea, but nonetheless, the commercially available mini spools won't work as they are 26 spline only and won't fit in a front coil case without machining (if at all)

If you mean minispool the rear then sure, you can fit a mini spool for a Sierra/Vitara into a coil rear. Make sure you get a trail tough mini spool, not a trail gear spool as they seem to be made of cheese.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:36 pm 
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Just an other question. the rear axels in mine are 26 spline i had to pull one to fix the oil seal, Are the front the same? so why no mini spool for the front? i was told you can mini spool anything, not sure if this is correct
im prepared to permantley lock the front diff if needed, but not CIG i have a few ideas on chemical locking. My logic behind this is that ill only use it when hard 4x4ing and i can unlock the front diff when not needed. I have an auto locker if the front of my cruiser that i have converted to part time 4x4 and love the positive feel of the front diff. I know that a lot of 4wheelers dont like the front permantely locked due to the amount of effort required to turn the front wheels, i dont have a problem with that and any way its a small car that does not weight alot.
So where do i find a mini spool for the rear.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:40 pm 
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so how do i post an other picture to this thread without starting a new thread?

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 3:53 pm 
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The front are 22 spline, rear are 26.

Because you have a coiler and nothing fits a coiler, you can't convert the front axles to 26 spline without making custom axles. There are 26 spline front axles available for leaf sierras, they are known as "double toughs" which is the Trail Tough name for them, but they are available from a number of sources.

Mini spool is here:

http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?pag ... &Itemid=53

Yes, you can mini spool anything so long as you can buy a mini spool for it.. otherwise it's CIG or some other hacky solution.

Don't mini spool/weld/otherwise permanently lock the front. You'll hate it. Really, you will. It's NOTHING like an auto locker in a heavy car with power steering. We've had some members weld from diffs in the club down here and it gets old quick. 56 point turns when everyone else just cruises around, the car pinballing all over the place on greasy hills, and really nasty steering kickback on descents are all factors. Getting out many, many times each trip to lock and unlock hubs so you can go round corners get pretty boring too.

Also consider that all the time you have the hubs locked both front wheels turn together, whether you're in 4WD or not, so even in 2WD on fast dirt you MUST unlock the hubs or else the car is a nightmare.

As an aside, you also have very had to find front axles/CV's - if you break a front CV/ 22 spline axle, which is more likely when you're welded front - you're going to struggle to find a spare.

If your car as a 100% offroad/rock only car I'd still advise against a permanently locked front. I'm not a mini spool hater at all - I have one in the rear of my car and recommend them strongly, but never, ever in the front.

Use a hosting site like photobucket for your photos. It's much better than using attachments.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:24 pm 
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ok cool, so it looks like im locking the back and not the front, in case im stuck ill use the winch. Thanks.
So if i use photobucket i can then post the links here, correct

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:08 pm 
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not lockin the front isnt a bad thing, I gave directions by standing out the sunroof of my mates bighorn with a fair lift, big tyres and a front locker when we went through winter flooding behind the beach.. I went "turn there's a big fkn dip in front of you (as your partway up the doors already)"... The driver said (I am its just not happening).... front locker

We went through 3.5 feet of water with ice in it unintended... and then had to go back through it to get back home..

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:15 pm 
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Eric Wurth wrote:
ok cool, so it looks like im locking the back and not the front, in case im stuck ill use the winch. Thanks.
So if i use photobucket i can then post the links here, correct


copy & paste the [IMG] tags & they appear in the thread, rather than uploading them to auszookers.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:52 pm 
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Eric Wurth wrote:

im prepared to permantley lock the front diff if needed, but not CIG i have a few ideas on chemical locking.


This might be a stoopid question, but how does chemical locking work?

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 9:06 am 
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Hey not a stupid question. It might just be a stupid idea. Basically the idea was to pull the front diff center and core fill it with a two part chemical steel. you would end up with the same results as CIG welding, but with no damage to the internal gears. the idea behind it was that if i didn't like it i could remove the compound and return the diff to normal. an other idea was to take the diff center to work and cast it full of liquid aluminium, but im not sure what the heat would do to the diff center liquid aluminium is around 900deg.

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Post Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 10:34 am 
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Could somebody please post me a couple of pics of the front and rear hemisphere for my model. im not sure that i have the right ones. and google images brings up everything else but.

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Post Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 11:08 am 
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What do you mean "Have the right ones"? Which bit could be wrong? I assume you are talking about the diff centres in your coil sierra? Are you concerned that the gear ratio is wrong?

There is only one possible diff centre/third member for the front. Nothing else will fit.
The rear diff centre is the same as any other 1.3 litre sierra. The ratio is different though - 4.09 or something.

What do you think is wrong?

Steve

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Vehicle: sj80 w/myside2. 99GV 2.5V6

Post Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 12:51 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
What do you mean "Have the right ones"? Which bit could be wrong? I assume you are talking about the diff centres in your coil sierra? Are you concerned that the gear ratio is wrong?

There is only one possible diff centre/third member for the front. Nothing else will fit.
The rear diff centre is the same as any other 1.3 litre sierra. The ratio is different though - 4.09 or something.

What do you think is wrong?

Steve



So are you saying a lock right 1510-lr will fit it the rear diff of a coily? The one that uses the original side gears. Guessing the 1530 won't as the ratio is different.

Been trying to figure this one out for a couple of weeks

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 9:31 pm 
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Any diff lock of any sort that fits the rear of a samurai or sierra will fit the rear of a coil sierra. Ratio is irrelevant.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2014 10:49 am 
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just want to make sure that your absolutely certain of this before I order a lockright,

There are a few numbers on the rear diff, seems it stamped KN178 around the carrier, there is YJ3R on the bottom and 910-21 and 128122 on the top.
My google fu finds nothing searching on these numbers.
Other threads I have found on the net about coily lockers for the rear say that lockers wont fit.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 12:16 pm 
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They are wrong.

The rear differential centre of a coil sierra is identical to a leaf sprung sierra and jimny. Any locker that fits the rear of a jimny or 1.3 litre leaf sierra will fit the rear of a coil sierra. The front diff is unique to the coil sierra and there are no lockers available for it.

Check the air locker application guide for an example. From memory the part number that fits all the above cars is RD208. Used to be RD88.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 12:22 pm 
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i run a coily rear diff in my sierra diff housings with an airlocker. Steeve is 100000% right

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:29 am 
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So I rang Superior Engineering to see if they could confirm that the Lockrite Lockers that they have listed would fit my model. The young guy that took my call could not. He put me in touch with the supplier of the diff locks Or so he thought, anyway the next person I spoke to said that they do not make anything for the sierra's. and that the ones listed on the Superior web site were American Powertrax units

My model being, Suzuki Sierra 04-1997 SJ80V coily running the G13BA engine.

So can anybody confirm that any of the listed ones on the Supereior web site will fit. I don't care who makes them I just want to order one that will fit and work.
sorry if im being a noob about this I just want to do this install once and once only.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:42 am 
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for 1 thing you dont want to buy from superior engineering, they are super expensive!!!

but this is the 1 you want
http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/p ... ts_id=2980

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:29 pm 
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Thanks heaps for that.

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2014 4:05 pm 
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Thanks everyone for the replies,

ordered a lockright 1510-lr off ebay for ~$300 AUD shipped
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321364123586 ... 1439.l2649

looking forward to getting this in and enjoying

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 7:53 am 
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So sorry to ask this but will the one toopy ordered fit my car?
If i can save $200.00 and still get the same results ( i was going to order the one from Superior Engineering)
Then more 4wheeling for me.

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 8:11 am 
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The one I ordered is exactly the same as the one superior engineering stock,
Manufacturer, Model No, Box :rofl:

the fitment?
I'm going by what the other guys have said, which by the multiple responses, I'd say is correct

at $300 I decided that I'd chance it and if it didn't Just resell it on ebay.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 8:21 am 
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Just an update to this, Lockright 1510-LR fit straight into the rear diff.
Works great and the extra traction is fantastic


The link Red89 posted here helped immensely
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=45947

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