[macguyverjimny]

Hi

can someone help me on that do i need to change for a 3 inch lift with no body lift, i am running 215 75 r15's with a bar and winch in front , suspention in 100% standard,

Caster correction bushes ?
extended brake lines?
panhard rod adjustment?
new radius arms?


i am planning on getting the 3" kit from jimny bits, my jimny is a 2009 vvt model,

also if i can do some of this later than other please specify,

I want to budget more or less what it is going to cost vs 2 " suspention,

thank you

[zoukshin]

Not sure what the jimny deal is, but if it's like a gv (doubt it), max 2" suspension only with minimum fuss
For more than 2", first there is a legal issue in some places (ie QLD). Also will likely require diff drops, potentially extended brake lines. Don't know about CVs etc.

Am sure there is a lot of Jimny owners who can give spot on information.

[coily96]

Id just be doing the brake lines on the front and if you have a rear brake proportioning valve above your diff id look at that too. The heigher you lift the less rear brakes you will have. Caster and panhard im not sure.

[45tr0]

Yes to all.
Caster correction is a must on any lift for a jimny, 2 inches or 3 doesn't matter. You can either go bushings or the jimnybits corrected arms. The arms have the added advantage of being much stronger and a little longer to give a touch more clearance for the guards.
Your axles will be about 10-15mm out of track without panhard replacement or relocation.
The stock brake lines will be fine n road with a 3inch lift, but the slightest amount of articulation will risk tearing them. I kept mine for a week before swapping them. I wouldn't wheel without doing the lines.
You will also need a spacer for the front driveshaft. This goes on the transfer end to give a bit more clearance of the tubular crossmember and to stop the joint from slipping apart with full droop.
All up, my 3 in lift from jimnybits with panhards, arms, spacer, brake lines and shock relocation brackets cost me about $1650 landed here in Australia.

[monley]

If it has abs the rear breaks won't be affected by lift. For 3" lift castor bushes (or arms) need to be done, brake lines and adjustable panhard rods.


Zouk shin: jimny is live axle so no diff drops or cvs angles to worry about

Edit: beaten to it

[macguyverjimny]

Now i just need motivation so post me a few crazy pics of a jimny witha 3 inch lift pretty please

And is there anyone who installed theshocks and coils by themselves?

Thank you for an awesome forum

[jimny_timmy]

I'd get the ORA 4" kit... Has everything you need so you don't have to figure it out. I personally reckon its the best suspension I've ever felt in a jimny.

[zukenutter]

^^^ And the ORA arms are stronger than the JB arms

[Blakey]

macguyverjimny wrote:

Now i just need motivation so post me a few crazy pics of a jimny witha 3 inch lift pretty please

And is there anyone who installed theshocks and coils by themselves?

Thank you for an awesome forum

their you go ORA 3" lift.

done at home. its easy to do yourself its not that hard.

[45tr0]

This was mine - 2009 Jimny on 3 inch Jimnybits lift and 215/75 BFG's - pretty much exactly what you're asking for.

[JayKay]

Heres mine.

3" Jimny bits
ES1000 Shocks
Radius Arms
Extended Brake Lines
Prop Spacer



Next to a Stocker

[macguyverjimny]

Thank you so much for the pics really love it:) would love some more

Cant wait to get a 3 inch from JB.

[sideways]

Take it to Josh and leave with epic suspension!

[atari4x4]

^^^^ South Africa to Australia seems like a bit of a drive just for a spring lift....

[Mike57]

You need everything you have listed but you don't need the caster bushes AND the arms just the arms. They will give you about 5 degrees of correction but you need to ask the supplier what degree of correction they provide and how much forward they will move your axle. Once you fit the corrected radius arms you may need a prop spacer as well. You will have to work out how far forward the arms push the axle. Then you may have a problem on the 2009 model with the panhard rod interfering with the pitman arm on the power steering box . I would on mine with the 40mm lift at least and was checking this out on the weekend myself. I have not worked out if a drop pitman arm will fix that but you need to watch that one.

The 2009 with ABS does not have the brake equaliser to worry about. As you will also be moving the axle forward you might need to cut the front bumper if you have it as standard at the moment, not totally sure about that as I have an ARB bar. It might be OK but that is not a big deal to fix.

That is all that comes to mind.

[monley]

Mike57 wrote:

You need everything you have listed but you don't need the caster bushes AND the arms just the arms. They will give you about 5 degrees of correction but you need to ask the supplier what degree of correction they provide and how much forward they will move your axle. Once you fit the corrected radius arms you may need a prop spacer as well. You will have to work out how far forward the arms push the axle. Then you may have a problem on the 2009 model with the panhard rod interfering with the pitman arm on the power steering box . I would on mine with the 40mm lift at least and was checking this out on the weekend myself. I have not worked out if a drop pitman arm will fix that but you need to watch that one.

The 2009 with ABS does not have the brake equaliser to worry about. As you will also be moving the axle forward you might need to cut the front bumper if you have it as standard at the moment, not totally sure about that as I have an ARB bar. It might be OK but that is not a big deal to fix.

That is all that comes to mind.

A dropped pitman arm will cause bump steer as the drag link and panhard rod need to be at the same angle( someone correc me if I'm wrong). I never had issue with my panhard rod in the front hitting any Of the steering competent s.

[Mike57]

The reason I mentioned that is that with the adjustable panhard rod on the front of my 2009 Jimny I have less than 5mm clearance between the rod and the pitman arm/steering rod connection. They are at exactly the same vertical position at rest. Moving the axle forward by any amount at all on mine would cause a clash. I expect that the answer is a different shape panhard rod rather than a different position for the Pitman arm but I would have to take a much closer look to work that out.

[fordem]

monley wrote:

A dropped pitman arm will cause bump steer as the drag link and panhard rod need to be at the same angle( someone correc me if I'm wrong).

In most cases, a vehicle with worm & sector steering will leave the factory with the drag link parallel to the axle, a suspension lift will put the drag link at an angle, and that causes bump steer, a dropped pitman returns the drag link to the original angle and corrects the bump steer.

If the suspension design uses a panhard rod, the panhard rod will also be parallel to the axle when the vehicle leaves the factory, please note, the panhard rod and the drag link are both parallel to the axle and therefore at the same angle, and you are correct in stating that if they are not at the same angle, bump steer will occur, but the correct thing to do after a lift is not to leave them just at the same angle, but to make them both parallel to the axle, by fitting a dropped pitman and a panhard relocation bracket.

If this is not done, the axle moves sideways as it moves up & down - in fact with a panhard rod the axle will always have some sideways motion as it cycles up & down, but with the panhard rod correctly located the undesirable sideways movement is minimized.

[macguyverjimny]

do i need to change the rear radius arms or the bushes aswell?

[Cruzer244]

So do you have the 3" lift?? Here is mine.

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