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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:38 pm 
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anyone have any ideas on the best way to do a RUF on a WT sierra without cutting and welding? i.e. bolt on as i have no access to a welder :(

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:41 pm 
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this has been covered a million times before.
2-stroker does a kit i believe but in my opinion there is no good way of doing it without welding.
find some one to do the welding and do it properly. or do without it

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:45 pm 
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i have asked 2-stroker and his only fit on a NT so i was wondering if anyone else had done anything like this

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:46 pm 
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i seriously doubt it

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:02 pm 
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What about the bolt on kits from low range or rocky road??

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:04 pm 
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They're a little different. They use a missing link/drop shackle setup. Not everyone's cup of tea.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:17 pm 
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What about the one from rocky road. I don't think it's set up like that

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:18 pm 
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The rocky-road ones only bolt onto the spring hanger and still use standard shackles but you have to use a relocation plate or re drill the springs to keep the standard diff position so then you miss out on one of the advantages of ruf which is pushing the diff forward to get better fire wall clearance and better approach angle

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:06 pm 
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I have one of those kits if you wanted to buy it.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:11 pm 
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tanshi wrote:
i seriously doubt it


2 stroker one just moves the hanger mount straight out.
Where WT are offset to the chassis so would be very hard to do a kit for it when you need a bit more support

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:49 pm 
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Boomerang shackles :)

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:53 pm 
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Boomerang shackles = extended shackles. Got no idea what the marketing is behind the "boomerang" shape.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:59 pm 
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JrZook wrote:
Boomerang shackles = extended shackles. Got no idea what the marketing is behind the "boomerang" shape.

There not straight and sorta look like a boomerang? :lol: either way they work.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:01 pm 
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so with the boomerang shackles can you run rears up the front?

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:04 pm 
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Yes

Those shackles have been on that car for around 8 months now

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:08 pm 
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do you run standard height springs up front? or could you run lifted ones. and what would you put in the rear

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:19 pm 
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I ran some lifted "Jenkins" springs and lifted rears in the rear

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:38 pm 
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monley wrote:
JrZook wrote:
Boomerang shackles = extended shackles. Got no idea what the marketing is behind the "boomerang" shape.

There not straight and sorta look like a boomerang? :lol: either way they work.



Boomerang shackles are the same as any other extended shackle. They don't know that they're bent, and act no differently because of it.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 9:44 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
monley wrote:
JrZook wrote:
Boomerang shackles = extended shackles. Got no idea what the marketing is behind the "boomerang" shape.

There not straight and sorta look like a boomerang? :lol: either way they work.



Boomerang shackles are the same as any other extended shackle. They don't know that they're bent, and act no differently because of it.


x100,000

it's still a straight line between the holes, no matter how much boomerang your boomerang shackles have.

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 10:50 pm 
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Fyi thats a shit way to do a ruf

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Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 11:01 pm 
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tanshi wrote:
Fyi thats a shit way to do a ruf


I'm not disagreeing with you, but for the sake of posterity, can you explain WHY you believe this to be so?

Lots of peeps on AZ seem to be shooting people down these days with one liners, when they could be offering more. :(

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Vehicle: LJs, Sierra, Jimny, Swift.

Post Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 11:14 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
monley wrote:
JrZook wrote:
Boomerang shackles = extended shackles. Got no idea what the marketing is behind the "boomerang" shape.

There not straight and sorta look like a boomerang? :lol: either way they work.



Boomerang shackles are the same as any other extended shackle. They don't know that they're bent, and act no differently because of it.


x100,000

it's still a straight line between the holes, no matter how much boomerang your boomerang shackles have.


Believe me now Monley? :thefinger:

Fwiw, I was maxing out 81340 shocks like Monley just with lifted springs in my LJ (which has the same springs, shocks, bushes ect as a Sierra). you don't need a ruf to get that sort of flex. A ruf gives a better ride though.

Doing a RUF with extended shackles like monley did will throw your castor out of spec, potentially give you a massive shackle angle and move the front diff forwards which may cause the steering arms to bind. Monley didn't redrill the rear hanger which would make all the above effects worse but he was happy with it.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 12:31 am 
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sideways wrote:
Fwiw, I was maxing out 81340 shocks like Monley just with lifted springs in my LJ (which has the same springs, shocks, bushes ect as a Sierra). you don't need a ruf to get that sort of flex. A ruf gives a better ride though.


Have you considered that maybe this is due to the narrow spring spacing of you LJ compared to a sierra....

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:14 am 
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It's the same spacing as a NT Sierra with slightly narrower diffs than a NT (basically, it's quite proportional). I had bartreads on stock rims so I wasn't cheating anymore width or using heavy wheels/tyres. Even stock Sierra rims and tyres add quite a lot of width over the bartreads on LJ rims.

The thing an LJ has over a Sierra is that the bumpstop spacing is narrower, they're the same style as Sierra rears. My springs were so stiff that the compressed side on the front was about 2" away from the bump stop if I reversed down the ramp (more if I drove forwards down it) so it's not relevant.

I still had a vertical shackle angle on the droop side so there's more potential there too.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 6:54 am 
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Fair call. Using extended shackles to do a ruf is half assed. I did it my self way back when I didnt know better. It causes castor angle issues. Death wobbles. Bad steering delay. Destroys you approach angle. Cannot be mod plated as shackels are illegal.

Not being able to do something your self is no reason to do itnin a dodgy way

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 8:25 am 
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atari4x4 wrote:
Fatzook wrote:
monley wrote:
JrZook wrote:
Boomerang shackles = extended shackles. Got no idea what the marketing is behind the "boomerang" shape.

There not straight and sorta look like a boomerang? :lol: either way they work.



Boomerang shackles are the same as any other extended shackle. They don't know that they're bent, and act no differently because of it.


x100,000

it's still a straight line between the holes, no matter how much boomerang your boomerang shackles have.

Been saying that to WA people for ages haha.

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 5:01 pm 
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I'm not going to weigh in at all on the whole RUF debate, it's been done to death and there's a staggering number of threads about it, but I do know why boomerang shackles exist.

It's nothing do to with RUF, it's all about XJ Jeeps Cherokees.

Boomerang shackles were made to allow XJ jeep owners to prevent their shackles hitting their rear unibody if they A) wanted longer springs and maintain compression travel B) went full mouthbreather and threw away their bumpstops. Under either of these situations, it was (is) common for XJ jeep shackles to contact the rear unibody and bind the suspension. Making them boomerang shaped allows them to "curve" around the unibody (that's monocoque for people who can spell) and allow additional compression (or overcompression, depending on the mouthbreathing status of the build)

There's lots of different sources, but googling "jeep shackle clearance" had this in an instant

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_5600.htm

Image

Quote:
6-inch on center, greaseable boomerang shackles for Jeep XJ. These stout units will give XJ ownersmore clearance away from the unibody, under rear spring compression, enabling the vehicle to run longer springs without the risk of damage. The Rubicon shackles are Jeep Speed race legal, feature zirk fittings for easy maintenance, urethane bushings, laser cut 3/16th steel plate, mig-welded seams for superior strength, and finished in a durable black powder coat. Sold as pairs.


So there you go. I haven't spent nearly 30 years reading american 4WD mags for nothing :D

Steve.

Back to debating how to build RUF :roll:

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 6:22 pm 
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OP, you thought about doing a welding course, then buying a welder?

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 6:59 pm 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
I'm not going to weigh in at all on the whole RUF debate, it's been done to death and there's a staggering number of threads about it, but I do know why boomerang shackles exist.

It's nothing do to with RUF, it's all about XJ Jeeps Cherokees.

Boomerang shackles were made to allow XJ jeep owners to prevent their shackles hitting their rear unibody if they A) wanted longer springs and maintain compression travel B) went full mouthbreather and threw away their bumpstops. Under either of these situations, it was (is) common for XJ jeep shackles to contact the rear unibody and bind the suspension. Making them boomerang shaped allows them to "curve" around the unibody (that's monocoque for people who can spell) and allow additional compression (or overcompression, depending on the mouthbreathing status of the build)

There's lots of different sources, but googling "jeep shackle clearance" had this in an instant

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16311_5600.htm

Image

Quote:
6-inch on center, greaseable boomerang shackles for Jeep XJ. These stout units will give XJ ownersmore clearance away from the unibody, under rear spring compression, enabling the vehicle to run longer springs without the risk of damage. The Rubicon shackles are Jeep Speed race legal, feature zirk fittings for easy maintenance, urethane bushings, laser cut 3/16th steel plate, mig-welded seams for superior strength, and finished in a durable black powder coat. Sold as pairs.


So there you go. I haven't spent nearly 30 years reading american 4WD mags for nothing :D

Steve.

Back to debating how to build RUF :roll:

And ?? :?

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Post Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 7:03 pm 
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Matthew wrote:
OP, you thought about doing a welding course, then buying a welder?

X2

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