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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2013 11:13 am
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Vehicle: 1992 suzuki sierra

Post Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 6:22 pm 
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Hey Guys

I just rebuilt the left swivel hub (leaking axle seal) on my 1992 Sierra over the weekend with an eBay kit - Koyo wheel and king pin bearings.
Prior to rebuilding the was a fair amount of play in the wheel and king pin bearings though once I finished it was all nice and tight.

Now I just tested it out in 4H with the front hubs locked and I almost cannot turn left or right! Extremly tight, if I start to turn it will almost lock in that position.

I can also hear knock. knock, knock which sounds to be coming from the drivers side CV, though i rebuilt the passenger side - though never had any problems prior with either CV's.

I've done wheel bearing many times before with no dramas first time I have done axle seal/king pin bearings.

Where have I gone wrong? I followed this guide http://homepages.maxnet.co.nz/martincat ... 0Joint.pdf
Marked the spindle, marked top and bottom king pins. The axle I simply removed and replaced - did not mark it.
Replace axle seal, packed the king pins, fitting new bearing cups/races, repacked CV with moly grease. When I went to put in the axle I could not get the CV joint in unless I loosened off the king pins yet it came in and out fine before I replaced the king pin bearings... not sure if this means anything.

Replace wheel bearings and bearing cups races repacked with HTB and refitted locking hub.

In 2H works fine steers great feels like new.

Thanks for your help!

Matt.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 8:42 pm 
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Sounds like you need to shim the king pins.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:10 pm 
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Did you refit the circlip to the end of the CV?

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:36 pm 
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The circlip that hold the spline/locking assembly in place? Yes.

want33s wrote:
Did you refit the circlip to the end of the CV?

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 9:38 pm 
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I simply left the shims in there that were already in there... I though they would have been in there from new. Aren't the shims removed as the bearing wears?

For reference I had 2 shims on top and one on the bottom.

Blkfxx wrote:
Sounds like you need to shim the king pins.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 5:08 am 
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If its fine in 2wd its shouldnt be kingpins.

Had you driven in 4wd prior to the rebuild?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 6:54 am 
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Yeh only last weekend and it was fine, no problems at all. Only pulled it apart to replace the leaking axle seal

SierraDan wrote:
If its fine in 2wd its shouldnt be kingpins.

Had you driven in 4wd prior to the rebuild?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:54 am 
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Just had it jacked up with all 4 off the ground, in 1st gear 4H hubs locked. With the wheels in straight direction all 4 turn fine, full lock to the left still spinning no strange noises. Full lock to the right the the right wheel will slowly come to a stop and then a noise starts. Bit of a clunk clunk, I think it's coming from the diff or left CV.

The only problem I had in re-assebling everything I could not get the CV joint back in the housing unless i removed the king pins. Yet when the old bearings where still in place I could remove and re-fit the CV with no problems.

Is this where the problem may be? I don't think the new bearings have made it that tight that I can no longer slide the CV in and out.

Should have I been able to have fit the CV with the bearings in and king pins bolted down????

Also I checked part numbers where the same on the new bearings.

Thanks,

Matt

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:13 am 
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Id pull it all appart on that side, and start again.

Were you going off the workshop manual?

if its being effect while turning, i woudl be inclined to check out the CV joint. clean it with some petrol and really inspect it. and if it swivels alright in your hand, re pack it with grease and try again.

not that i have dealt with a broken CV joint, but they rae pretty simple, so if it is broken i imagine its fairly catstrophic.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:16 am 
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I went of the guide I linked in my first post. Yep unfortunately I think I'm going have to strip it again. :(

droverdave wrote:
Id pull it all appart on that side, and start again.

Were you going off the workshop manual?

if its being effect while turning, i woudl be inclined to check out the CV joint. clean it with some petrol and really inspect it. and if it swivels alright in your hand, re pack it with grease and try again.

not that i have dealt with a broken CV joint, but they rae pretty simple, so if it is broken i imagine its fairly catstrophic.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:47 am 
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Once you got the cv in and the kingpins back in could you spin the cv by hand, or did it hit the kingpins ?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:03 am 
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I can't remember to be honest though I'm sure I checked that, if not that's what I'm going to check now.

Red89 wrote:
Once you got the cv in and the kingpins back in could you spin the cv by hand, or did it hit the kingpins ?

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 3:28 pm 
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i had that problem on my zook it turned out to be the spring that locks the hub in wasnt fitted propper and it engaged one of the hubs almost put me into a tree when it happened.. goin straight ok but turn wheel even a bit and bam wrench wheel out of my hands and go to full lock

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 4:37 pm 
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Stripped it down - I check the CV while it was still in the hub could freely turn it with out it hitting anything.

Inspected all the bearings and they seem fine no odd marks or gouges. I removed the rear scraper seals of the swivel hub and the hub was quite tight, don't have a sliding scale but at a guess maybe 3-4kg of force.

Removed the spindle and king pin bearings again no obvious marks bearings looked just fine. I re-assembled the swivel hub, king pins and now it did feel smoother to turn left to right more like the 1kg of force requried - maybe I overtightend the king pins first time round... Also there is only one shim on the bottom and two on the top. (went to 6 different places today, 2 auto part stores, repco, suzuki, 4x4 shop and 2 suspension shops with no luck). I think I may have to make my own shims.

In tightening the king pins is there a particular process, I did the top first nipped it up and then done up the bottom king pin.

That is where I have left it for now... don't want to put it all back together to have the same problem until I can find a solid solution.

Any thoughts from anyone?

Thanks all

Matt.

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Post Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 4:39 pm 
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Are you refferring to that tiny spring and ball setup? Or the larger spring that moves that in and out on the hub? Mine seem to be fine have always kept them clean and well greased.


ainzy wrote:
i had that problem on my zook it turned out to be the spring that locks the hub in wasnt fitted propper and it engaged one of the hubs almost put me into a tree when it happened.. goin straight ok but turn wheel even a bit and bam wrench wheel out of my hands and go to full lock

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 11:14 am 
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But damn I think I've had a stupid moment. With hubs locked and in 4x4 the transfer case send power 1:1 front and rear. So when locked and in 4x4 I could still steer but I had the problem at full lock because my transfer case was binding up!!!! Due to the wheels all traveling at different speeds!!

Now come to think of it I don't think I have ever driven on the road with locked hubs in 4x4, though on the dirt or mud no problem as the faster wheels will simply break traction!!!

Bloody hell - now to assemble the left side again and check it out in the local park tonight

Found the below on the net! My problem exactly!!!

If you have a standard/open front diff, the wheels can and will spin at different speeds. The open (as in no locker) diff centre allows this to happen (same in the rear). The problem is the transfercase drives the front diff at the same speed as the rear diff, but they travel different arcs around corners, and hence every wheel will be slightly different speed. Normally, the loose offroad surface would allow a little slip and its not a problem. On bitumen etc, you wont get this slip, and all that rotation difference will build up in the driveline until something gives.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 11:24 am 
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shit hey, that will be it.

you even wrote that you had the hubs locked & in 4wd, but didn't mention being on tarmac.

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Post Posted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 11:28 am 
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Haha wish I did mention that!!!

I never thought it would be a problem as when I do hit the tracks there are sections of tar, however it's straight road and if I turn off it, it's immediatly on dirt/gravel!!

I was certain my work was correct - it's not the first time I've done it. Done my mates hilux with no dramas, but I'm sure he didn't test it on the road hahah....

I think I jumped the gun a bit and though the worst before taking a step back and thinking about it... I was going to test it out on the dirt but wasn't game enough incase I broke something!


atari4x4 wrote:
shit hey, that will be it.

you even wrote that you had the hubs locked & in 4wd, but didn't mention being on tarmac.

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