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Post Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:09 pm 
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Im putting a 1.3 WT transfer case in my 99 Jimny and was wondering if anyone had any experience with these http://locktup4x4.com.au/sierra-6-5-1-r ... 892aq3jip0 are they any good or is there something better? Am going to run 31's and still would like it to pull ok on freeway (will be going for a J20a motor swap down the track) and to be able to crawl really well in low

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:13 pm 
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Buy them from lowrangeoffroad.com and enjoy the savings!!

Also, not sure that 6.5's are the best gearing choice for a Jimny.

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:26 pm 
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Fatzook wrote:
Buy them from lowrangeoffroad.com and enjoy the savings!!

Also, not sure that 6.5's are the best gearing choice for a Jimny.


I am open to any suggestions I am new to zooks and its been a long time since I have had a 4wd I have read everything I can about it but there are so many different opinions but please tell me what you think is the way to go

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Post Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 9:37 pm 
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What size tyres are you hoping to run?

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 1:13 am 
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I'm pretty sure it worked out that you'd need 37's to equal out 6.5's in a jimny... 4.1 is a better option but depending on what size tires also. 31's are doable, but its s hell of a guard chop!

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:00 am 
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well I was thinking of 33's as where I run everyone uses 35-37's and the ruts are huge and sometimes you just have to go in them there is no option, there are really deep water and bog crossings as well so I wanted as much body height, as well as diff clearance as I could get while still maintaining drive ability however everyone so far has counselled me to go with 31's. I dont mind how much chopping I have to do I want it to be safe and functional for what I want and still be ok to drive on road so I guess it will be 31's

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:08 am 
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I see you're on the central coast. Im assuming you wheel the Watagans/Ourimbah?

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:13 am 
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Yes I took it up there to suss out some tracks and a few of them are pretty full on, it was mainly after going for a run with some mates on 37s and the ones on 33's could not get through alot of it. I figure 31's will be a good compromise between ability and maintaining handling for what I am after

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:15 am 
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The ones on 35's and 37's were they Patrols or Hiluxes?

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:28 am 
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SierraDan wrote:
The ones on 35's and 37's were they Patrols or Hiluxes?

Yes 35 on hilux and patrols with 35 and 37 one on 33

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:43 am 
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Xtreme wrote:
well I was thinking of 33's as where I run everyone uses 35-37's and the ruts are huge and sometimes you just have to go in them there is no option, there are really deep water and bog crossings as well so I wanted as much body height, as well as diff clearance as I could get while still maintaining drive ability however everyone so far has counselled me to go with 31's. I dont mind how much chopping I have to do I want it to be safe and functional for what I want and still be ok to drive on road so I guess it will be 31's

People going up there with 37 and driving wet tracks are the reason they r locking up all the tracks up there
If its rained that week only drive rocky tracks dong go driving through mud and getting the tracks locked up :evil:

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:45 am 
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Yeah. I live in Newcastle, so the terrain is the same. I have always kept up with or outwheeled the bigger cars on 35/37's with just 31's on my Sierras.
31zook on here wheels the same stuff on 30's in his Jimny. (Think his beadlocks are 32's?).

The weight, wheelbase and diff clearance of a Zook makes up for the lack of rolling diameter compared to the big cars. I reckon you would go far with 30/31's and a subtle lift, provided you can keep axle reliability.

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:47 am 
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got_bar_work wrote:
People going up there with 37 and driving wet tracks are the reason they r locking up all the tracks up there
If its rained that week only drive rocky tracks dong go driving through mud and getting the tracks locked up :evil:

While that is a big factor. Its more the dickheads in stock cars 4wheel spinning at max revs that fuck shit. But yeah, if its wet, stay at home I reckon.

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:59 am 
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30's on a jim are enough for wattos, as Dan said its what 31zook runs and he drives pretty much everything up there. You're gonna need chromos and reduction, but not 6.5's.

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 1:10 pm 
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Here are a few builds similar to what I had in mind


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 1:53 pm 
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You want something that looks heaps sick, or something that works?

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 2:01 pm 
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SierraDan wrote:
You want something that looks heaps sick, or something that works?


As I said I am not after looks - I have read in depth about the blue jimny build and spoken to the guy that built it - very functional its not built for looks. But I am not interested in going with different axles etc, just an interesting read to see what he fabricated for himself and how well it does work - another country of course could not have it on the road here. The other one I have no info on but looks like it flexes ok and seems to clear the guards but having no info on it I naturally do not know how well the set up works or what it even is. Was merely putting up some pics for reference to show what I would like to achieve flex wise if possible while maintaining a safe and functional car.

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 2:19 pm 
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You need to read this then.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=30877

But, also worry less about flex and more about gears, driving well and lockers :D

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 2:26 pm 
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Yeh thats what the majority of people are telling me are on here - thats why I'm asking the questions. I started out thinking I needed 4 inch lift, 50mm body lift, cut the guards and run 33's. But considering the information I am going to run with 31's, sierra transfer and reduction gears (not the 6.5:1 but maybe 4.16 instead) CV's will get replaced to handle it, swap the drive line for toyota units (stronger and easy swap) I will still do 50 on the body and chop the guards but only run 2 or 3 inch lift. I have a rear air locker, just got to get one for the front but first mod is transfer and gears, then CV's, then lift and guard chops, tyres after that then front locker last.

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 2:30 pm 
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You mean toyota driveshafts?

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 2:33 pm 
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pretty sure that is what it was - there was a flange you can get for about 50 bucks with holes for pretty much most toyota units that will fit right in. I will find out where it was that I was reading and put up a link

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 2:36 pm 
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Toyota would bolt up, the flange just needs a little trim inside the flange for the spigot.
The stock ones would be fine. The toy ones would be custom, so there's some unnecessary $$$ IMO.

Seriously. Read Josh's build. Even I think he's gone overboard on a jimny and his list is smaller than yours and from what ive seen is fairly capable.

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 6:36 pm 
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Xtreme wrote:
Yes I took it up there to suss out some tracks and a few of them are pretty full on, it was mainly after going for a run with some mates on 37s and the ones on 33's could not get through alot of it. I figure 31's will be a good compromise between ability and maintaining handling for what I am after


reember that the diff pumpkin of a jimny is smaller than a patrool.. so youll get same diff clearance with a smaller tyre :wink:

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Post Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 7:06 pm 
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Not the same rolling diameter though ;)

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 6:56 am 
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Here is the Drive Line Adapters I was talking about

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... pters.html

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 9:15 am 
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Yeah, I knew what you were talking about.
You don't need them but. and in my opinion its a waste of money at this point. But each to their own.

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