[WestVic-Zook]

had to put in a new front tailshaft today after doing it for some reason the transfer selector got jammed between gears

after taking off the front cover and getting the selector shaft back to where it should be i put the front cover back together and changed the oil in the transfer case and took it for a drive

in low range and high range 4wd all is good but in 2WD say when you take it up to 80km'h and put the clutch in it makes a grinding noise from the transfer case

anyone got any ideas what could be the problem in the case as it seems strange why this has happened??

[Fatzook]

What do you mean? Front cover???

[WestVic-Zook]

the front cover of the transfer case which houses the front output shaft and hi/low gear selector

[Fatzook]

Not sure why you took the front output housing off when you can re-align the shift rods with a screw driver down the shifter hole...

Anyway, its going to be hard to guess the exact issue. Did you try to align the shift rods through the shifter hole? Is the transfer changing smoothly now?

[jdk81]

So you were changing the front shaft,
and for some reason the shifter got jammed.
So you separated the case to fix it?

I'd suspect one of the thrust washers or possibly a shim got moved, allowing the gears to shift and twist away while coasting, but rides ok when under load (because thrust washer on that side is ok).
But thats just a guess.

[Scales]

drop the case, dismantle and find out more.... hard to know whats going on inside a closed box.

[WestVic-Zook]

i'll rip the transfer case out and split it and see what has gone wrong with it, hopefully there is no dammage to the transfer gears and only something simple to replace (not like the transfer case is overly complex anyay)

if a gear is stuffed who or where is the best place to get spares for them, i'd rather buy new gears than waste money on a second hand transfer to find they are in poor condition????

[Scales]

depends on whats broken, one thing at a time mate.

LROR for gears, but depends on whats going on in there. you may only need to buy a rebuild kit ($300 ish from 4wdproducts)

[jdk81]

Oh, you didnt dent one of the excluder guards on the flanges, so they rub a little on the case?

$300 to rebuild old gears
vs
$515 or so new with full rebuild etc.

[Fatzook]

jdk81 wrote:

$515 or so new with full rebuild etc.

Where the hell are you getting gears and a full rebuild kit for $515?

[WestVic-Zook]

damn that cheap LROR want like $600 for the gears alone and that not including postage...

nah didnt bend any flanges

[Scales]

300 to rebuild gears??
Are you referring to just bearings and countershaft+shims like I was?


this is all moot points anyway. Split the case first before we start going on about shit that might not even be broken.

[WestVic-Zook]

Ok so i thought I'd do a process of elimination to see what was going on

I removed both F&R tailshafts from the transfer and reved the motor up to 100km/h, put the clutch in and everything is fine so it would appear that it is either tailshaft related or in the diff

Im thinking it is the rear tailshaft rather than the diff luckily Ross gave me a spare rear shaft so i will try this first

I'm going to have to see about getting custom tailshafts made as the stock zook ones seem to chop out, not sure if this is due to been a SPOA or is normal on all zooks?

[jdk81]

If there isnt sufficient spline engagement, they will flog out real quick.

As per unis, mud, axle wrap, large angles, and shock loading will flog em out quick.

On they go, they may start to whine, vibrate, eventually heavy shudder and clunks etc.

Those prices were lror, when they had a good special last i checked.

[Davidmacca]

Let me know please, I have had the same noise since I bought my car and replaced gearbox and transfer but still their so next is diff and tailshaft

[jdk81]

You didnt be a dick and put the driveshafts in out of phase?

[WestVic-Zook]

what you mean by out of phase??

when i removed the rear shaft originally the slip joint was dry with fuck all grease in it so i packed it full, im heading outside not to change it over so will tell you the results in the next hour

[jdk81]

There are two locating marks.
one on the end of the spline, and one on the end of the slip yoke (under the boot).
These need to be alligned to allign the unis and balance the shaft.

The yokes need to be alligned the exact same way
cbf explaining why.
i think its possible allign it correctly, but have it unbalanced. if the spots are 180 degrees apart.

[WestVic-Zook]

well thanks to jdk81 it was a simple fix of just aligning the tail shafts in a way it was good as i found the diff end rear uni on the shaft i had there was seized up so i replaced it and its all fixed, also i noticed the left side transfer case body bracket needs re-welding as its got a few cracks in it

[jdk81]

So it belongs in the dickhead thread,
but offers a silver lining because you found other things to fix before they go too far.
Although a driveshaft out of phase will murder a uni pretty damn fast.

[Scales]

out of curiousity, if you swap the shaft with a different one will it matter with "phase" I just put it in without even thinking of that.

WT case, in a Jimny, Front Jim Shaft, rear is WT shaft from different car than case.

have no noise complaints...


Im going to pull the rear slip joint off when I get home to check, I didnt notice any marks when I put it in, are they just paint? or are they like punch-marks? What about the flanges on the case?

[jdk81]

They are like a big punch mark.
One on the very end face of the spline, and the other is on the slip yoke under the rubber boot.

mixed and matched shafts and slip yokes,
they should be in phase, and roughly balanced.
I dont know if they balance each piece individually or as a set. id suspect a set. but it should be fairly close.
As per phase, id double check just incase. it could be a friday arvo car...

[Red89]

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,16725.20.html

I have always only lined up the yokes, without any dramas.

[Scales]

Oh okay so just lining up the slip yoke with the main shaft.

What about balancing the shaft to the flanges? and flanges to case? or am I being silly.



Ill have to look at the yokes, Im really not sure what I did when I did the WT swap. 99% sure I got the "ears" lined up, so I could be 180deg out.

[WestVic-Zook]

all i did was line up the yokes and all was good