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Post Posted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 11:38 am 
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Hey all,

Suzuki Jimny 2004 M13a Series

Does anybody know where the Coolant Temp Sensor is?

Sensor is faulty with a EL code 14

Causing the Jimny to go into Limp Mode by the feel of it :S

I assume it ressembles this? - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-GENUINE- ... 0984668269

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 1:27 pm 
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The only sensor i have come across so far is the black box directly behind the head?

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:21 pm 
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I don't know Jimnys, but first place I would look would be thermostat housing.

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:37 pm 
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from what i can gather from my manual if u look from passenger side in behind the head there will be a little grey plug well thats what mine is, if you need a photo i can get one hope this helps

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Post Posted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:17 pm 
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kristov wrote:
from what i can gather from my manual if u look from passenger side in behind the head there will be a little grey plug well thats what mine is, if you need a photo i can get one hope this helps


Thanks buddy!

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:32 am 
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Has anybody come across there Jimny missing on Cyl #1 with an engine code of 14?

Tested every component i could think of and, had came down to no signal to Injector #1...

now when i say no signal i mean, i connected an seperate injector from my spares to the harness and there was nothing, connect the same injector in connector harness #2 and got pulsing...

could this be limp mode from the code 14? (coolant temp sensor)

OR could the code 14 be a 02 sensor problem?

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 9:03 pm 
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if the injector is not firing and the injector works fine in another position, theres a break in the wiring. grab a multimeter with an extension fly-lead and measure for continuity from the ECU plug to the injector. Disconnect battery when doing this to make sure you dont accidentally cook something.

If theres no continuity, you know the fault, then just break it down into sections until you reach the broken wire. alternatively you can wire in a replacement line to the plug.


I dont know what code 14 is I didnt look it up, im just going by what you said.

did you take the injectors out and physically see/hear them operating?

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Post Posted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 9:12 pm 
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Scales wrote:
if the injector is not firing and the injector works fine in another position, theres a break in the wiring. grab a multimeter with an extension fly-lead and measure for continuity from the ECU plug to the injector. Disconnect battery when doing this to make sure you dont accidentally cook something.

If theres no continuity, you know the fault, then just break it down into sections until you reach the broken wire. alternatively you can wire in a replacement line to the plug.


I dont know what code 14 is I didnt look it up, im just going by what you said.

did you take the injectors out and physically see/hear them operating?


Indeed, it seems as though this "limp mode" (that's what i am going to refer to) is on and off randomly BUT! I have however disconnected the O2 Sensor since and haven't come across it yet... only time will tell i reckon since it has only done a short drive since the unplugging.

P0130
(No.14)
HO2S circuit malfunction
(Sensor-1)
Min. output voltage of HO2S-higher than
specification
Max. output voltage of HO2S-lower than
specification

P0135
(No.14)
HO2S heater circuit malfunction
(Sensor-1)
Terminal voltage is lower than specification
at heater OFF or it is higher at heater ON.

i have no idea on what this P013X stands for though :S

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 12:48 am 
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im confused now, so why where you looking at the coolant sensor again?


If you have an error 14, and you know its referring to an o2 sensor in the book.... what are you doing looking at coolant sensors etc? just replace the o2 sensor and be done with it....

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 6:14 am 
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Sorry I should have explained before,

I was having difficulty tracking down the EL Codes and had come across somewhere that had codes for suzuki's but, later found it wasn't for my car :S

So that's why I am unsure if I am correct and was hoping on someone confirming.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 2:05 pm 
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okay, well that makes more sense now... I was seriously like WTF is this guy doing??

I just looked up 14 in the FSM and yeah its o2 sensor related. Buy a newwy off ebay and solder it onto your existing o2 plug (if required) and stick her in. Just make sure you get an o2 sensor with correct amount of wires.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 2:10 pm 
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Awesome thanks scales!

Once we can afford one ill come back with an update ;)

whilst i have you here scales, ever come across a sticky transfer? e.g. easy to enter 4h but, only way to get it out to 2h you have to reverse?

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 2:18 pm 
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nope, but I think thats a common thing, not sure on the cause something about having load on the gears and going into reverse unloads them or something?? (im guessing here)
Dont think its a cause for concern. Is the chain stretched on the case?

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:53 pm 
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Scales wrote:
okay, well that makes more sense now... I was seriously like WTF is this guy doing??

I just looked up 14 in the FSM and yeah its o2 sensor related. Buy a newwy off ebay and solder it onto your existing o2 plug (if required) and stick her in. Just make sure you get an o2 sensor with correct amount of wires.


pretty sure you're not ment to solder o2 sensor wires, all the universal ones i've seen have a wire joiner block thingo & the destructions say not to solder.

should be able to pick one up off ebay/repco with the correct plug.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:12 pm 
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hmmm didnt know that one atari.
any idea why?


Unless they are bi-metallic loomage it shouldnt matter soldering. resistance is better with solder which is why I said it so cant be that. and heat wouldnt be an issue that far from the physical sensor also. I might have to look into this one ;)


But yes you are right, correct plug is way to go, and the way I would go too... I was just simplifying a little.


EDIT:

well there ya go, learn something new every day... Off an LS1 but same shit different smell. dont solder, get one with the correct plug.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-ii ... stead.html


So atari, you reckon you can just take your sensor assy to repco and get a swap over counter? do they vary much between models? or are these things generic for any car? Im guessing the voltage range can vary. I dont know much about o2's

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:26 pm 
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they'll have to order one in to suit what ever car... 4wd products on ebay should have a plug & play listing

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:11 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
they'll have to order one in to suit what ever car... 4wd products on ebay should have a plug & play listing


Ouch... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Oxygen-Senso ... 35b645a259

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:18 pm 
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typical tight arse suzuki owner. :deadhorse:

that's about right, i dare you to call you're local suzuki dealer & ask for a price... you'll probably get some change from $400

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:30 pm 
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Hehe not wrong!

Autobarn said they could get one for +/- $75 but they would have to confirm from there supplier so, ill make them call tomorrow

Repco wanted around $110

Burson wanted around $268!!! 8-O

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:13 pm 
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yeah hunge is about right... Im thinking of changing mine just as a matter of service. done over 100k and i believe its even in the servicing schedule to change?

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:21 pm 
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problem is the cheap ones usually don't last as long.

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Post Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:51 pm 
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its my understanding they do degrade over time and start throwing off the fuel consumption long term, sound about right?
Would it be silly of me changing one if there is nothing wrong with it?

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Post Posted: Sat May 04, 2013 5:45 pm 
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So it is now permanently missing :(

It's really hard to get around with 3cyl lol

Problem is, we cant afford to do any fixing since I am unemployed currently

Scrawn, unfortunately I have no idea how to check 'continuinity'

Mechanics I do know, multimeter on the other hand....

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Post Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 7:56 pm 
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scrawn? do you mean me?


google is your friend mate, not going to explain basic multimeter theory. its as simple as selecting the funtion on the mm and then looking for zero resistance......

It probably wont cost you anything if its a busted wire mate, spend five minutes figuring out a multimeter and surprise yourself ;)

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