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Post Posted: Thu May 02, 2013 9:27 pm 
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GV is starting to get a little noisy in the engine so i thought its time to do a full flush and oil change.


What engine flush do you all recomend. Ive been told some just dislodge the crap and that can lead to it blocking up other parts of the motor. Are there any that disolve the sludge.? Any better than others?



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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 11:03 am 
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Diesel oil is a good flush, the only real diff is it has more detergents, so, will flush well.

Use same grade, alls well.

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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 3:35 pm 
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SuziBlu wrote:
Diesel oil is a good flush, the only real diff is it has more detergents, so, will flush well.

Use same grade, alls well.


no long term harm comes from permanent use of diesel oil? i've used it for the last 30,000kms (5,000km service interval) without dramas but a mechanic mate of mine tells me im a, quote: "f**king moron" for doing it...

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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 4:01 pm 
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whincup wrote:
SuziBlu wrote:
Diesel oil is a good flush, the only real diff is it has more detergents, so, will flush well.

Use same grade, alls well.


no long term harm comes from permanent use of diesel oil? i've used it for the last 30,000kms (5,000km service interval) without dramas but a mechanic mate of mine tells me im a, quote: "f**king moron" for doing it...


Its a shame a lot of mechanics these days need 4 years to learn how to change oil and brake pads and don't take in any of the why of a subject and then form opinions based on no knowledge.

as long as the oil you are using has a spark ignition engine rating on it (will say SG, SF, SH, SI something like that) probably near its Compression ignition engine rating (C something) then its perfectly fine to use, infact the extra detergents in Diesel oil are probably helpful

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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 6:00 pm 
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I know a few guys that use diesel oil in big bore and turbo busas with good results. I use LPG oil in mine and it seems to work well.

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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 6:15 pm 
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i've used the nulon engine flush for the last 12 odd years, always change my oil @ 5000kms & the oil goes from being a nice honey gold colour to being as black as the ace of spades once it's been added & idled for 10-15 mins

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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 6:23 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
i've used the nulon engine flush for the last 12 odd years, always change my oil @ 5000kms & the oil goes from being a nice honey gold colour to being as black as the ace of spades once it's been added & idled for 10-15 mins


You need better oil if its unable to hold and disperse contaminants without some additive

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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 6:28 pm 
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royce wrote:
atari4x4 wrote:
i've used the nulon engine flush for the last 12 odd years, always change my oil @ 5000kms & the oil goes from being a nice honey gold colour to being as black as the ace of spades once it's been added & idled for 10-15 mins


You need better oil if its unable to hold and disperse contaminants without some additive


doesn't seem to matter what oil is in it, the silver one only had magnatec in it & the blagon has had a few different flavours in it... the oil flush seem to always remove more than what the oil has over the 5000kms.

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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 6:36 pm 
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I've got a mechanics book from the 1940s that says when you drain the the oil you should fill the sump with diesel and let idle for a few minutes, drain the diesel out then fill it with proper oil.

I put black and gold oil in the LJ. It hadn't been serviced for 16 years or something, the old oil was like black paint. The black and gold went black pretty much strait away but it went from being black under the rocker cover to exposed alloy. What ever the Black and Gold has in it, it eats sludge!


Last edited by sideways on Fri May 03, 2013 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 6:40 pm 
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whincup wrote:
SuziBlu wrote:
Diesel oil is a good flush, the only real diff is it has more detergents, so, will flush well.

Use same grade, alls well.


no long term harm comes from permanent use of diesel oil? i've used it for the last 30,000kms (5,000km service interval) without dramas but a mechanic mate of mine tells me im a, quote: "f**king moron" for doing it...

well your mechanic mate should just shut the fuck up as he is making himself look like a total arse hat

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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 6:43 pm 
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atari4x4 wrote:
the silver one only had magnatec in it


royce wrote:

You need better oil

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Post Posted: Fri May 03, 2013 6:44 pm 
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royce wrote:
atari4x4 wrote:
the silver one only had magnatec in it


royce wrote:

You need better oil


:roll: when it died it had 188,000kms & it had no timing chain rattle... can't be too bad, it's not a F1 engine FFS.

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Post Posted: Sat May 04, 2013 4:38 pm 
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How dirty is the engine. For really bad engines I put 4l of diesel in with a new filter and let it run for a few min with some revs. Drop the fuel out, another new oil filter and fill with oil.

On diesel oil in a petrol engine, I have don't it for the last 10 years and never had a problem. 1st oil change will be dirty then it gets better. Ran diesel oil in everything from pit bikes, cruisers, sierras, vitara's, kingswods with striker engines, range rovers, xr6t's, commodores. Every time 1st change is pretty dirty.

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Post Posted: Sat May 04, 2013 5:40 pm 
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Ok if i was gonna run the deisel oil option when what oil should i get....

Found this on the penrite site.

HPR DIESEL 5 (5W-40) Semi Syn.

Viscosity: 5W-40

Base Oil:
•Semi Synthetic

Used in the following Fuel Types:
•Diesel
•LPG / Dual Fuel

Can be used where the following SAE viscosity is recommended:
•5W-30
•10W-30
•10W-40


http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.p ... products=7

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Post Posted: Sat May 04, 2013 5:47 pm 
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that would be a good choice and has a zinc content which is good

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Post Posted: Sat May 04, 2013 6:11 pm 
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I know what ill be doing next week......

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Post Posted: Sat May 04, 2013 9:23 pm 
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I tend to run a thicker oil in every thing. 20/50 or 20/60. Then you never run to thin a oil and kill a bearing. You might lose some hp but it would be like 1-15 hp depending on the engine, it's not a race car so who cares and it's only a proof tenth between a 0 weight and a 20 weight on start up.

Put it in perspective I ran a 20/60 penlight in the last 2 turbo xr6 and most people run a 0/40 fully sin oil and change it every 5000k because its going dark. With the diesel oil I was leaving till 7500k till I changed the oil, came out golden on a fat tune with extra boost for more than 50,000 k till the wife wrote off the 1st one.2nd xr was a lemon so only put about 10,000 k on it before we sold it. I'm about to put the same in the ve ss because after 3000k the oil is getting dark and in my opinion wouldn't make it till the next service at 50,000k

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Post Posted: Sat May 04, 2013 10:46 pm 
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Thicker oils can create problems for you - if the engine has hydraulic lifters or self adjusting hydraulic timing chain tensioners - the GV V6 has both - you can run it if you want, I wouldn't.

You may feel it's only a "proof tenth" thicker at start up, but, my ears tell me it's the difference between lifters that rattle at startup and lifters that don't.

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Post Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 4:21 pm 
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Been out playing with the GV and ive noticed the engine noise is quiet at start up but gets noisy after about 20sec of running. Oil is Nulon 10w40. It's only 3000kms old and is still nice and clear on the dipstick.

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Post Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 7:02 pm 
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joeblow recommends moreys if it's timing chain rattle on start up.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4632&p=61337&hilit=moreys#p61337

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Post Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 6:08 pm 
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sideways wrote:
I've got a mechanics book from the 1940s that says when you drain the the oil you should fill the sump with diesel and let idle for a few minutes, drain the diesel out then fill it with proper oil.

I put black and gold oil in the LJ. It hadn't been serviced for 16 years or something, the old oil was like black paint. The black and gold went black pretty much strait away but it went from being black under the rocker cover to exposed alloy. What ever the Black and Gold has in it, it eats sludge!


Done this on my old 2.8 Rodeo when I 1st bought it. Drain....add 5L diesel....idle for 5.....drain......5L fresh oil...run for 5...drain....new filter and fill with oil.....change oil and filter again after 1000k. Ended up getting and extra .5 - .75L of oil in it after doing that.

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Post Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 6:23 pm 
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So if u were to run diesel oil what thickness would be best

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Post Posted: Mon May 06, 2013 6:32 pm 
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same as you run now.

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Post Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 11:44 am 
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i might buy 15/50 5/40 seems way to thin in my opinion

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Post Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 11:58 am 
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KEENSY85 wrote:
5/40 seems way to thin in my opinion



Yeah 5/40 and 5/30 are better suited to new engines.

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Post Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 12:10 pm 
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Dan85 wrote:
I know a few guys that use diesel oil in big bore and turbo busas with good results. I use LPG oil in mine and it seems to work well.


Exactly what are these "results" ? and how do you even know it works well?

I struggle with the concept of putting any thing other than the oil that is recomended in the service manual. Both type and viscoscity.

Change it every 5000 or so and forget about it.

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Post Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 12:19 pm 
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droverdave wrote:
Dan85 wrote:
I know a few guys that use diesel oil in big bore and turbo busas with good results. I use LPG oil in mine and it seems to work well.


Exactly what are these "results" ? and how do you even know it works well?

I struggle with the concept of putting any thing other than the oil that is recomended in the service manual. Both type and viscoscity.

Change it every 5000 or so and forget about it.


Same here. The manufacturer knows what to run in there motors and I certainly wouldn't run a car/truck type oil in a motor that everything is lubed by the same oil as the motor ie motorbike wet clutches.

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Post Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 4:38 pm 
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Done some research into this and alot of the premium oils out there are suitable for both Petrol and Deisel motors.

Penrite oil is one thats for both and thats printed all over the bottles.

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Post Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 4:59 pm 
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shep wrote:
droverdave wrote:
Dan85 wrote:
I know a few guys that use diesel oil in big bore and turbo busas with good results. I use LPG oil in mine and it seems to work well.


Exactly what are these "results" ? and how do you even know it works well?

I struggle with the concept of putting any thing other than the oil that is recomended in the service manual. Both type and viscoscity.

Change it every 5000 or so and forget about it.


Same here. The manufacturer knows what to run in there motors and I certainly wouldn't run a car/truck type oil in a motor that everything is lubed by the same oil as the motor ie motorbike wet clutches.



OEM facotry service manual gives a variety of recommended oil viscosities for a suzuki sierra

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Post Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 5:37 pm 
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Santos wrote:

OEM facotry service manual gives a variety of recommended oil viscosities for a suzuki sierra[/quote]

Persumably you are refering to the graph that also includes ambient temerature so you can pick the correct oil for your climate?

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