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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:22 am 
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Well i finally got round to getting rid of the tin on my sills. There was no rust :o but there is a huge dint in each side 8O and I cant figure out how they got there yet the tin thingies where not dinted :?. Anyway, instead of fixing it then having to get some paint to match suzuki black :roll: i was just going to put some chequer plate over it.

Now I know you can buy them already cut but im to tight for that. What would be best to use, pressed steel or aluminium? got enough of both to do both sides.

Which is better to attach it with, rivets or sikaflex, or both?

And have people bent the chequer so it folds around the of the sill as well?

This is not for strength or well being, sliders should be done next week for that, this is just so I can hide the dints, mismatching paint and have some bling :roll: :P.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:56 am 
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rivets and sealant. have a look at smooth aluminium, i think it looks much better.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 2:00 am 
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and bend it around or just have it finish at the edge of the sill

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 2:05 am 
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i wish that i made mine smooth instead of cheqer, on flat sills silicon works by itself, if they are curved or pretty dinted you will need rivits.

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 2:10 am 
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did you bend yours sam or is it just a flat piece of chequer?

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 2:37 am 
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I used smooth Ali, I personally think its looks better then checkerplate. I bent a 10mm lip underneath the car so it had a better finish. Attatched with rivets and sealed with silicone.

heres a pic.

Cheers,
Cw

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 10:19 am 
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Zookfan, yeah if you really have to put something there just do the 10mm bend at the bottom like cruiserman has done, that way you don't have to flatten the seam underneath the sill, coz there's drain holes there which let water out.

Though i think that putting these things on is just inviting more opertunity for rust. :(

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:04 am 
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And if you are going to attach using sealant, use sikaflex, not silicone. Silicone promotes rust. Sikaflex was designed to hold stuff together

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 12:16 pm 
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steve wrote:
Though i think that putting these things on is just inviting more opertunity for rust. :(

X2

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:23 pm 
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mine was already rusty, then i fixed it then it started to bubbles again soo bam cheqerplate, it will be chopped off one day :)

mine are bent to go under the sill, otherwise they are flat

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:40 pm 
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cruiserman wrote:
Image


Cool, mini Mack flaps!! 8) 8)

I just primed and painted mine in Gloss Black from the trusty spray can :lol:

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:26 pm 
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i had bling alloy checker on my 1st hardtop,3mm steel checker on my soft top just painted black and was just given alloy again to do my hardtop now but i dont think ill use it as i think the flat sheet also looks better.None of mine have had the lip bent at the bottom tho and have been both riveted and sika'd on.

Im hoping with my truck to remove them sills and and run the slider right up there tho so who knows 8)

matt

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Post Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:52 pm 
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I can see how it would let rust develop but the steel hasnt got any rust on it and has been sealed now with paint.

Scrawn I did prime and paint it and it looked good, then i saw it in the light and two tone doesnt not suit when both tones are shades of black :D

I will attempt to do it tomorrow, just not sure as to how I am going to bend it. I have got flat ali there to but I think the chequer looks better personally. thanks for the help

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 12:32 am 
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go a decent size rivet.i think i went about 3/16 stainless ones.

Good luck with it whatever way you go,its just that extra little something 8)

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Post Posted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 1:36 am 
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well the chequer has been cut and bent, just need some sikaflex to hold it there.

so i dont start a new thread, is it ok to mount a recovery hook side on? so it is facing in towards the car or should it be facing the front or back?

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 2:24 pm 
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I assume you are mounting the recovery hook on the rear/front, but mounting the hook sideways (due to not much there to mount the hook to).

For the weight of the zook you could probably get away with it.

Structurally I wouldnt advise it though. You are causing a bending moment on the hook, not the strain it was designed for.
Also look at how much steel is around the holes in the chassis the recovery hook bolts into.

Doing the dodge on these is asking for trouble, snatch strap elastic energy and dodgy mounts isnt something I would want to bodge.

Use things the way they were intended.
If it looks right, it probably is.

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Post Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 10:06 pm 
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yeah i will post up a picture of what i ended up doing. it is facing exactly like it is suppose to be :D

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