[Xtreme]

Ok I bought a flood/spot/flood 24 inch LED light bar that I need to wire up. What I wanted to do was have a switch in cab, but I also wanted to see if it was possible to have a switch elsewhere located outside the cab. But I wanted both switches to be able to operate independent of each other (i.e I dont want to have to flick on the in cab switch in order for the outside switch to work).

This is also the way I want to hook up my rear 7 inch LE light so I can just flick it on if I am standing at the back of the car without needing to go into the cab to do it.

I figure I am happy for them to be able to turn on and off without the ignition on - I am thinking of getting a battery key (like from a boat) that will be out of the car when I am not in it so there is no worry about people turning it on and draining the battery.

I wanted to know if anyone knew how to wire this up (the in cab switch to be reliant on the ignition and the out cab switch not) or if there were other ways to do what I want.
Should I use an in line fuse? or get a fuse block etc? any recommendations?

[Zook_Fan]

If you didn't have the inside switch reliant on the ignition it would be simple. Just run your switches in parallel on the earth side of the relay. If either is switched on the relay will earth and switch the light on.

[Blakey]

you would be better off wireing up 2way switching rather then parallel switching.

with parallel you would have to switch both switches off for it to go off with 2way switching both switching will turn it on and off respectively.

something similar to this

[Xtreme]

Thanks Blakey that helps alot I will have a go at wiring it up that way I might even not worry about the in cab running to the ignition I will just make them both run the same that way when ever the battery key is in they will work and I don't have to have the keys in the ignition

[Critical Energy]

If you want to run it via headlights as well you'll need a relay, if not you can either do it as per the above diagram, although I personally wouldn't bother as its extra wiring and its just a car at the end of the day. I'd parallel switch it, only drawback is that you have to switch it off with the same switch as you turn it on.
If you want it to only operate with the key you'll need a relay also and use the switched + off the key through the switches and on the relay.

Rambling a bit now sorry

[Blakey]

Critical Energy wrote:

If you want to run it via headlights as well you'll need a relay, if not you can either do it as per the above diagram, although I personally wouldn't bother as its extra wiring and its just a car at the end of the day. I'd parallel switch it, only drawback is that you have to switch it off with the same switch as you turn it on.
If you want it to only operate with the key you'll need a relay also and use the switched + off the key through the switches and on the relay.

Rambling a bit now sorry

it would actually be less wire for 2way

[just_cruizin]

Two way switching (ie household light method) is a PITA as both switches can be 'on' but the light will be off and I can't see how you make one reliant on ignition and the other not.

[Xtreme]

I am not going to make the in cab one go through the ignition. Both will be wired through a battery key and straight to the battery, so they can be on at any time ignition or not as long as the battery key is in and switched on to provide power

[Blakey]

just_cruizin wrote:

Two way switching (ie household light method) is a PITA as both switches can be 'on' but the light will be off and I can't see how you make one reliant on ignition and the other not.

how does that make it a pain.

having to turn off both switches to turn it off is a pain.
If you use a normal switch with no markings to delineate the on position then it doesn't really matter what position both switches are in as if its not on you switch either switch and it will turn on.

[Critical Energy]

I agree with it being a pain, it's just a bit over the top for something as small as a car. As for wiring well it depends where you parallel them I guess.
What is the LED bar for that you need an external switch? If you want to use for setting up camp etc it's probably a bit bright, plus it will probably draw at a guess 12A (my 42" one draws 20A) so you won't want it on too long without the engine running.
I have rear facing 15 W floods on the back of my Navara, switched inside & out, I use them when reversing in awkward spots, also to flash people in traffic to thank them for letting me in, rear switch is for setting up camp or at work etc.

Rich

[Xtreme]

Well the reason I want an external switch on the rear one is exactly the same reason that you just stated. And for a minimal amount of extra work I can have the same for the front - It may get used it may never be used. If Im out camping and the car is locked and I need a quick source of instant illumination over a large area then it was worth throwing in another switch, the rear might be facing the right way or the front might be facing the right way - who knows. I will probably throw some external cig sockets on the outside of the car for the same reason

[Xtreme]

Also I will be installing a 2nd battery so I am not to worried about the power draw.

[Critical Energy]

Yeah too easy then, just chuck the extra switches in. You can also parallel your switches and high beam to control a relay which then draws the light power from the second battery. Just a thought

[Xtreme]

sweet I will look into re-wiring a few things when I am putting the 2nd battery in to make sure that it is all set up right and everything except starter and winches will run off 2nd battery

[just_cruizin]

You said you will be using a battery isolator style switch with a key so it will have a designated ON and OFF position so if wired in 2 switch position it will be a MAJOR pita. Why wouldn't you want the in cab version hooked to the at ignition or head light loom?

[Xtreme]

I am not electronically minded, although I can follow a diagram and solder and wire things up - but what is a pita?
All I want to do is have a battery switch with a key that must be in it in order for the led lights and some other accessories to work.

I want to have 2 switches for each light - one located in cab, one located next to each light externally.
I do not want to have to have the ignition on in order to use the lights - just the battery switch key in.
I want each switch to work independent of the other i.e I want to turn it on or off from external switch or on/off from internal switch regardless of the other switch. (if that makes sense?)

that's more or less what I am trying to accomplish.

[Blakey]

Xtreme wrote:

I am not electronically minded, although I can follow a diagram and solder and wire things up - but what is a pita?
All I want to do is have a battery switch with a key that must be in it in order for the led lights and some other accessories to work.

I want to have 2 switches for each light - one located in cab, one located next to each light externally.
I do not want to have to have the ignition on in order to use the lights - just the battery switch key in.
I want each switch to work independent of the other i.e I want to turn it on or off from external switch or on/off from internal switch regardless of the other switch. (if that makes sense?)

that's more or less what I am trying to accomplish.

PITA is pain in the ass

[Xtreme]

Ok here is what I came up with to wire up just the external switches for the lights (as I dont have any internal switches yet.

Can someone tell me if this wiring is correct?
It Should be that unless the battery key switch is on, then the external toggle switch will not work.

[Xtreme]

And this is what I cam up with for the internal toggle switches as well

This should allow no switches to work unless the battery key switch is on.
and
Either toggle switch to turn on or off the light independent of the other switch.

My question is: If I turn the light on or off with one switch - do I also need to turn it back off with that same switch? or will having one switch turned on, and then turning on the other switch turn it off?

Or will it all catch on fire

[BAZZOOK]

Is it that hard to open the door and flick a switch?
Seems a lot easier than all this crap.

[atari4x4]

BAZZOOK wrote:

Is it that hard to open the door and flick a switch?
Seems a lot easier than all this crap.

i was thinking the same thing.

[Xtreme]

Its what I want. If there is nothing helpful to say then say nothing

[Critical Energy]

Almost mate, I'll do you a drawing tomorrow.
The fuse should be as close to the battery as possible and the negatives only need to run to the lights, not the switches. Or just terminate to the body of the car AS LONG AS YOU CAN GET A DECENT EARTH. With parallel switching how you have drawn you will need to turn the light off with the same switch you turn it on with

[fordem]

As drawn, assuming the switches are in the off position, the LEDs will light as soon as the battery is connected, and when the switch is flipped the wiring will catch fire.

[Xtreme]

well it would not be the first time my wiring has caught on fire. Thank's Critical I'll wait for your diagram, but if possible I would like it to be so that if it is switched on with one switch, then the other switch could turn it off (not needing to be turned on and off with the same switch)

[just_cruizin]

fordem wrote:

As drawn, assuming the switches are in the off position, the LEDs will light as soon as the battery is connected, and when the switch is flipped the wiring will catch fire.

That's what I was thinking

[Bugsta]

There is not enough detail in those diagrams. For those circuits to be usable, each toggle, would have to be DP (Double Pole), which I assume is not the case. And the Battery Key Switch would be DT (Double Throw), which I assume it is.

Wait for Critical Energy to draw you a diagram. Blakey's diagram is on the money.

I too have plans for mounting work/reverse light with double switching, among many other things.

Important thing is to have it all planned (and checked by someone that knows) before you start. I'd suggest a bulk design rather than bits and pieces add on, or it will end up a dogs breakfast of relays, fuses and wiring.

I've got a modular system of semi-sealed 2 x '4 relay', 1 x '16 fuses', and a 10 pair switching cable to the dash. As pointed out in another thread - overkill of fuses, but that's just how they come. I drew a circuit for each device and its relevant switching, then made a spreadsheet of all the switches/types (SPDT, DPDT etc), current draw (for fuse choice), colour pairs in the cab cable, and power source (BATT, ACC, IGN, High Beam).

I have everything except switches now. I like the Carling Contura (ARB style). Trouble is, the retaining clips for the actuator tend to be a little weak and break after a while.

[Bugsta]

PS. I think Transport department might have an issue with the placement of the light bar. They will claim it effects visibility, even if in reality it does not.

[Xtreme]

Bugsta wrote:

PS. I think Transport department might have an issue with the placement of the light bar. They will claim it effects visibility, even if in reality it does not.

Yes there is not much that you can do these days to please them. I have to look it up again but I dont thing there are any ADR's on bolting things to the bonnet apart from bonnet scoops and the rules for that were something like you had to be able to see the road in line with the mid point of your bonnet I think it was 12 meters from the front of the car. The other specification was that if you had a ball with a certain diameter (I think it was 220 or something) and you roll it up the bonnet no part of the scoop could touch the ball at a point higher then its mid line first. So if the light bar does not touch the ball above that midline it will pass.

But as I said I have to re check it.

If there is problems with it I will just make it quick disconnect and leave it in the back till I go offroad then put it on should only take a few mins.

[Critical Energy]

If you want the ability to switch one on and then the other off you need to follow Blakeys diagram