[Fatzook]

Bennyzarb wrote:

Wow thanks heaps that explained alot um could you tell me how the trimatic auto works I am kinda guessing when you put your foot down the vacuum of the engine tells the gearbox how fast it is spinning and changes gear also depending on the strain on the gearbox ?????
But how does it know if it doesn't have a computer ?
Does it have an overdrive ?

3speed relies soley on Vacuum for kickdown. No TCM or overdrive.

[Bennyzarb]

Ahhh ok sweet so should be pretty easy to install

[Bennyzarb]

What's it like on angles tho ?

[Gwagensteve]

What do you mean?

If you're asking "does the auto have problems with loosing line pressure when the car is on big angles" Then rarely, if ever. I've never experienced this problem with the AW-4 at all (and a couple of weekends ago a drove my car back onto its wheels from a flop, so it's definitely not an issue for me.

I have seen a trimatic loose line pressure on an angle, but it was low on fluid, the car was fully on its side, and the engine wouldn't idle, so I don't consider that a major problem with the auto.

Trimatics (and Jimny autos, from my experience) do get noisy on big angles - it's like the pump is cavitating, but they don't loose drive.

Steve.

[SierraDan]

x2

The trimatics arent as tolerant as the AW4 from what ive seen.
Filling a litre over the hot line will help for offroad crawling, not sure how good it is for the auto if youre goinf to drive it on the road often.

[Gwagensteve]

A deep pan is another option. It shouldn't be hard to find another trimatic pan to weld onto the existing one to make a deep pad that would hold an extra litre or so. There might also be a deep pan available commercially.

Steve.

[Bennyzarb]

Ahhh ok thank you heaps thst was a big consern
I am very keen to put 1 in now what transfers do people use ?
would I be able to addapt twin hilux transfers ?

[jono165]

Sierra transfer with reduction gears will give you all the reduction you need and is so simple

Remember with an Auto you also have the converter ratio which for a trimatic is around 1.8:1. This means that below the stall speed your crawl ratio is effectively 1.8 times the gearing.

So say you have a 2.4:1 first gear, 6.5:1 in the transfer and 3.7:1 in the diff your crawl ratio just in the gears is 58:1 but because the auto multiplies this by the converter ratio you essentially have 58x1.8= 105:1 crawl which should be heaps.

[Bennyzarb]

Ahh ok sweet I didn't know that could you convert mine now to the auto plz
I ha standard 1.3 gearbox with 6.5 transfer 4.88 diffs with 35s

[jono165]

This is the gearing calc i use, WT fifth gear i think is lower than is lister there (0.865?)

http://www.lepayne.com/gears.html

put in your figures the my gear number in 1st low is your crawl ratio, multiply this by 1.8 for the trimatic which will be plenty low enough. I think you might find that when stopped in low range you might need to chuck it in neutral/park as it might drive over the brakes a bit.

remember the 3rd gear ratio in a trimatic is 1:1 so it looks like you will be doing about 4900rpm @ 100km/h with that setup

[Gwagensteve]

We've gone through all this before - it's even in this thread, on the previous page:

gwagensteve wrote:

OK, if you're legitimately daily driving this setup you can't run a trimatic. 100km/h = 4800rpm with a 1:1 top gear.

If you dropped to 4.3 diff gears I get 4233 rpm, and with 4.1's 4036 rpm @ 100.

I would have thought you'd want to be around 4K @ 100 km/h with a GTi and 35's.

Use THIS kit:

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... n-kit.html

and THIS kit

http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?pag ... &Itemid=53

to bolt the auto to the car and to the motor.

You'll want some 4.1 diff gears if you do actually DD, otherwise leave it as it is.

That's it. There's about 5 wires (reverse light and starter defeat wires) and a vacuum line to connect, hook up a trans cooler, (and I'd recommend an auto temp gauge) and you're away.

Make sure you get EVERYTHING from the donor vitara - shifter, flexplate, flexplate washers, flexplate to crank bolts, flexplate to converter bolts.

Steve

[SierraDan]

Gwagensteve wrote:

A deep pan is another option. It shouldn't be hard to find another trimatic pan to weld onto the existing one to make a deep pad that would hold an extra litre or so. There might also be a deep pan available commercially.

Steve.

Wouldn't the pickup have to be extended to get any benefit from a deep pan, in regards to crawling angles?

[Bennyzarb]

I'm not going over 80kmh anyway so I will just give it a go how it is and then I can play with diff gears or even maby transfer gears
Thanks for looking it up and helping out

Ok sweet I am pulling it all out of the car so I will get it all
What do you think it will be like on road if I floor it will it rev up high and change late or will it just rev up quick and change early so that it's a dog ?

[Gwagensteve]

I don't know. You could always shift it manually.

Steve.

[Bennyzarb]

Ahhh yea I didn't even think of that hahaha stupid me

[Bennyzarb]

Are the splines the same in the gearbox ? So it will fit on the gti engine ?

[jono165]

It doesn't have splines on the input like a manual gearbox, the torque converter bolts to the flex plate which replaces your flywheel. Output is same spline as jackshaft.

[Gwagensteve]

There's no splines involved. The flexplate bolts to the end of the crank.

Remove the flywheel off the back of the GTi motor, bolt on the flexplate from the g16a donor. That's why I said you need to be sure you get everything that bolts to the crank of the g16a- all bolts flexplate and the the doubling pads that sit each side of the flexplate.

I think you'll also want the starter from the vitara.

Steve.

- beaten by Jono

[jono165]

In all seriousness I think everything has been answered now. Once you have everything sitting in front of you it will be quite obvious how its all going to work with the Lucky13 adapter and the trail tough kit.

[Bennyzarb]

Why do you run a baring on the back in the kits can you just put a tail shaft on it to go to transfer ?

[Gwagensteve]

Aaaaaaaaaaaaargh! You're melting my brain Benny. Have you searched? Have you read anything at all about this swap? There is no bearing on the back of the auto. The output of the auto is supported by the vitara transfer input. Once you remove the transfer, there's nothing to seal the sierra jackshaft slip yoke or stop the fluid falling out.

Seriously, this has all been covered many times before. I think it is even explained on the trail tough website.

Steve

[atari4x4]

Grimbo wrote:

Search & read what people are posting for fucks sake

I miss grimbo

[jono165]

trail tough even give you comprehensive instructions that show you the process. just do as it says and buy a lucky 13 to bolt the boz to your gti.

https://workspaces.acrobat.com/app.html ... bM5chAU7MA

[fordem]

Gwagensteve wrote:

The AW-4 only locks the converter when in overdrive, and whilst I'm sure it's possible to manually switch the lock in in other gears, I'm not sure there's much to be gained.

Just thought I'd mention it - I've seen "non-Suzuki" AW-4 lock the converter in third, and I'm pretty sure the Suzuki ones will do it too - if I hit the "OD OFF" button on my Pajero, third effectively becomes top gear, and you can watch the tach and see when the converter goes in to lock up - if you then hold the throttle steady with your right foot, and gently press & release the brake with your left, the speed will remain constant, but the rpms will rise & fall as the TCU unlocks and relocks the converter in response to the brake signal input.

Also -manual control of the TCC requires just one wire to be switched (energize the #3 solenoid) - I once asked why folks saw the need to manually lock & unlock the TCC (I'm pretty certain it was this forum) and was told it made to low gear hill descents easier - being a "flatlander" this is something that I would never have figured out for myself.

[31zook]

atari4x4 wrote:

Grimbo wrote:

Search & read what people are posting for fucks sake

I miss grimbo

BHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

[Gwagensteve]

I'm pretty certain my early vitara aw-4 only locks the converter in 4th.

Steve.

[Bennyzarb]

How can you make it hold the gear ?
So you can really smash that gear

[Gwagensteve]

What?

[Bennyzarb]

In the auto can you make it hold 1st gear till limiter ?
Or how can you ?

[Gwagensteve]

Leave it in 1st and it will hold the limiter until the end of time. Likewise with second. The catch is that with a regular automatic valve body, the auto might kick down at low revs/high load, which you might not want. You can adjust the TV cable to make the auto less keen to kickdown.

You can use a manual valve body so the auto will never shift up or down, it will only ever hold the selected gear, but that's a bit of a pain in a daily driver. Also, many manual valve bodies delete compression braking, so they aren't practical offroad.

Steve.