[christover1]

[jesse_vit]

christover1 wrote:

Got me stubby sorted.
The actual price was less than quoted.
$240 total including tax
Nice to get a good surprise.

my dad made one of these up for me on the weekend looks exactly the same as this one. and we changed the diff drop brackets so that it mounts off the 3rd member aswell. the edge of the flange that the cv bolts to sits 20mm out from the housing. the cv seems to bottom out when its fitted just wondering how far out everyone elees one sat.
cheers jesse

[Fatzook]

Polar_Bear wrote:

joeblow wrote:

seriously people, if you are heading down this path DONT cut and shut an axle.

as in cutting up a cv and welding on a flange, or cutting up an axle and re-spline it. Is either of them really that bad, if done properly wouldnt the cv give up before the axle shaft?

I don't see a problem here. I did this for a mate MANY years ago, and he had absolutely no issue with CV's OR modded axle.

[DarkHorse]

jesse_vit wrote:

my dad made one of these up for me on the weekend looks exactly the same as this one. and we changed the diff drop brackets so that it mounts off the 3rd member aswell. the edge of the flange that the cv bolts to sits 20mm out from the housing. the cv seems to bottom out when its fitted just wondering how far out everyone elees one sat.
cheers jesse

'Bout this far:

[joeblow]

[atari4x4]

show~off

[joeblow]

....bye bye CV's..........

[got_bar_work]

Let's us in on the plan Joe
Will this be a uni with a slip yoke shaft to Sierra cromo

[joeblow]

What you are looking at there IS the CV replacement. That shaft goes in the hub end and will be joined to a similar at the diff end with a tailshaft and uni's.

[Joe]

joeblow wrote:

What you are looking at there IS the CV replacement. That shaft goes in the hub end and will be joined to a similar at the diff end with a tailshaft and uni's.

you making these for GV's yeah?

[got_bar_work]

Wats the operating angle of the uni's
More then stock cv
U should make some thompson coupling
Instead of uni so we can run more
front droop

[joeblow]

got_bar_work wrote:

U should make some thompson coupling
Instead of uni

yes, lets fail one of those out in the middle of knowhere and wait ages for a replacement. This is just an experiment by the way. And yes GV's will just be a longer version.

[got_bar_work]

Good point
How strong are the uni's u will be using
As strong as a Sierra cromo cv

[ms1991]

Joe... I hope you go ahead with the cv replacement for all vits, Id give you a deposit on one today.. great idea mate.

[ms1991]

joeblow wrote:

What you are looking at there IS the CV replacement. That shaft goes in the hub end and will be joined to a similar at the diff end with a tailshaft and uni's.

any progress mate?

[Chairman]

Is the guy who made the black nylon bush still around ?

I'm in the process of converting from alloy too steel diff, an after having a read of the blog i'm super keen to give this short side axle a go .

[atari4x4]

yep the bush man is still around, PM Bruce for the RHS axle support bush.

[Chairman]

Cheers man, i have a question for you atari4x4 if you don't mind?

To get the steel GV diff to fit in place of the alloy one, did you need too make or alter the mounting brackets ? Or will it line up with the alloy diff mounting brackets ?

[atari4x4]

the early ones will bolt straight up, the later ones have a different pinion mount & will require the mount from the GV. it will bolt to the crossmember.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8335&hilit=gv+steel

[jimnynutter]

Ok so for the "bullet proof front diff" not be


I need the steel front diff from a 1998-04 gv with the 3rd mount? (I have a 93 manual vitara so I've got 5.12 ratios I believe I can just swap ratios)

Then for the rhs to lhs cv swap.
I have to PM Bruce and get the bearing thing for the driveshaft support?

Then get a spare set of driveshafts both left and right with stubby and have the stubby modified in what way? (Sorry bit confused

Sad then stock up on left side driveshaft s?


Somebody pleased be kind and spell it out for me

[atari4x4]

yep, pretty much it... there are a few ways you can go about making the stub axle.

you want the complete GV diff & a 26 spline LHS shaft if you're upgrading to a 26 spline locker ARB RD88/RD208 (being a 93 you're most likely 22 spline)

eg housing & "3rd member" (the bit that holds the ring & pinion & the front driveshaft bolts to)

this is what the yanks call a 3rd member... pinion carrier is another term for it.

[jimnynutter]

What's the advantage of a 26 spline over 22 spline?

[atari4x4]

stronger, it's a larger diameter axle by a fair bit.

[jimnynutter]

Oh, so for that its 26 spline hubs, Cvs, diff gears?

[atari4x4]

RHS inner CV spline & LHS inner axle & diff side gears/RD88 or RD208, the outers & FWH are common

[jimnynutter]

Cheers for the info
Don't know it this changes anything.
But my car being a 1993 by rights should be a 10 bolt rear diff,

Slight hitch, mines the runout factory hodgepodge model last of the 1993 it's got 12 bolt rear diff, but had the old axle design of the wheel studs in the brake drums, so would it be fair to say that being a hodge lodge factory model of suzuki clearing the old model stock. Mine may have 26 spline front?

[atari4x4]

all wagons had a 12 bolt from memory & didn't you swap the rear diff over to the later style, the one you got from larry & the original one had the bold on drums?

front will be 22 spline, wasn't until late 95-96 when they went to the nice round dashboard they the 1.6's got 26 spline fronts

[jimnynutter]

Yeah I've got Larry's axle housing with the updated design.

[stem1]

From reading this thread, it appears that the cause of breakage of the alloy housing is from the added leverage that larger tyres provide, being transmitted to the housing mounting bolts, eventually loosening them, causing play which adds shock load to the lever, then failure. Is it common to find the mount bolts loose upon periodic inspection as described?
Have studs been tried?
Is the housing better supported in its original location, compared to dangling from drop brackets?
Do the mount bolts tend to come loose in the stock location with larger wheels?

[atari4x4]

not always... they're just piss weak & should have never been made from alloy in the first place.

this one cracked in the housing from pretty gentle wheeling & there have been a few others that have done similar.

Chop wrote:

The crack is slightly raised not pushed in. Moved the car earlier and noticed oil where it had been sitting. Oh well steel diff it is