[tassie jeeper]

murpha86 wrote:

does anyone know if its a roadworthy item to have head rests in you rear seats? mine are missing...

i cant imagine this would be an issue unless someone was sitting in the rear seat. i plan on removing mine and sitting them on the floor untill such time as i need them (can see out the back window better) its kinda hard with a 3" spare and i lifted the mound an inch as well so my back window is pretty useless

[Built4thrashing]

murpha86 wrote:

UPDATE! UPDATE! UPYOURDATE!

Problems: Still have a noisy lifter/maybe chain? its a constant ticking and doesn't go away when warm. im going to drop the oil and put fresh and do the 2000rpm for 20mins thing and see if it goes away other wise i ges the chain is comming off.... OR how hard are valves to replace? OR does anyone have any other ideas or fixes??

.

What oil filter are you using.......

Many have said you need to use a genuine Suzuki filter as its non return valve works better than the aftermarket filters.....

I'd try this before the timing chains.

[murpha86]

Idk. It's. Ryco filter. I thought they were one of the better filters? Any way the car is going in to get checked as I think is something more sinister which means ill have a wrecker to kill! Just about over this shit. Never had so much trouble with a car!

[tassie jeeper]

murpha86 wrote:

Idk. It's. Ryco filter. I thought they were one of the better filters?

many owners like myself whom have had issues with timing chain (ie noise, rattling etc...) have noticed substantial difference when changing to a genuine over ryco and running a lower oil 5w30/10w40

[Chop]

I'm running a cheapo nippon oil filter and the recommended oil weight in a semi syn and it doesn't rattle

[murpha86]

Im already running the lower oil tried 5w30 and 10w40 in it now with new filter. Heres a cupple of videos of it. its cold start but it doesnt really go away.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGQr4GIl-W w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsScAmZm4wI

[murpha86]

Blows a fair bit of oil smoke to on start up and if you give it a rev. but if you rev it up the sound goes away a bit it doenst get louder or worse sounding. Could this be timming chain slap??? seeing how its kinda constant on top and below the car and when you give it a rev (increase the oil pressure in the fluid tensioners) it goes away? They wrecker i bought it off reckons they pulled off the cover and replaced a tensioner but im thinking maybe do the whole timing chain kit?? I just want some one to tell me definitely of at least with a certain amount of confidence that thats what could be the problem.

[atari4x4]

murpha86 wrote:

Im already running the lower oil tried 5w30 and 10w40 in it now with new filter. Heres a cupple of videos of it. its cold start but it doesnt really go away.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGQr4GIl-W w
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsScAmZm4wI

that sounds brutal, how many kms on the motor.

[murpha86]

No idea? Ill say over 100,000 but I don't remember the wrecker saying. He reckons they replaced a tensioner but who knows.

[atari4x4]

email them a link to the video, i'd be pissed having received & fitted a 2nd engine that sounds as bad as the first one.

[tassie jeeper]

thats F%^$# throw it in the trash!
thats definitely timing chain but OMG i never heard 1 that bad mine does have a little noise but nothing like that!!
u keep driving that motor and it will detonate!!

[murpha86]

Going in to get checked today at mechanic. See what they reckon. I want someone to look at it so I can go back to the wrecker and let them know its shit. Want my money I think. No more rat shit engines. Pretty over this... Anyone want a rolling chassis and gear box.... Lol

[atari4x4]

what wrecking yard are you dealing with?

personally if i was in perth i would have gone with suzistore, at least they have a name & reputation to uphold. sure you might pay a little extra but i'm sure you would have got a decent engine the first time.

[russgt]

Dont give up yet mate! It sucks I know. That engine really does sound crap though!

[tassie jeeper]

try and find a vit they are wrecking which still has the engine in it so u can start it and hear it (u then know what u are buying) i know u cant always do this but if u can its worth th extra wait to get the motor out (also they might do u a deal if u help pull the motor out.

[murpha86]

The wrecker is Suzuki shop. I think I've paid too much as well, $2500 for block and head only? Any way it's at mechanic ATM and they seam to think it may not be too bad? But I have them doing some investigation on it so see what they turn up. It still drive great and has no loss if power and isn't getting worse so see what they say. I'm so keen to get it sorted so I can start with lifts and tyres n bull bars etc n get out and about!

[murpha86]

ok mechanic said it just looks like a timing chain issue. he thinks its just a case of doing the replacement and should (fingers crossed) be ok. SO thats my next thing, get a kit and have a crack ad changing a timing chain. If anyone in the Rockingham area has done one before and feels like lending a hand that would be ace! I will provide food and beer! haha

[atari4x4]

ninjamoses has done timing chains on a H series, but i don't think he's in rocko.

i've attached 2 pdf's showing what needs to be done/procedure

[murpha86]

AWSOME! thanks man ill check it out. I know its not the easiest of jobs but im keen to save the $1000 + to do it lol

[ninjamoses]

Complete other side of town unfortunately and I don't even have enough time to fix my own junk at the moment

It is easy enough to do yourself though mate, just follow the instructions atari posted above very closely and you will be fine.
That said, I did it before I dropped the motor into the car. Reckon you are going to need the patience of a saint though to do it with it in the vehicle. I'm sure beer will help though

Be warned of some of the super cheap timing kits on ebay. Two of the tensioners I got in my kit were completely shit (one had been designed back to front, the other has a piss poor ratcheting mechanism). A lot of people recommend aftermarket chains/guides but with factory tensioners. I'd probably just get an aftermarket kit still if I had to do it again, but avoid getting the cheapest one possible (think my one was from streetfire or similar - avoid it).

[murpha86]

Ok i just bought one from ebay,
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 1130002481

The guys have near perfect feed back on over 21,000 sales so hopfully its ok. How much are factory tensioners?? my thoughts are not cheap?
The instructions seam pretty good. will need a torque wrench though so will head out and get one of them to i guess. Its half tempting to rip the motor out and do it out of the car! haha im getting pretty good at it! I have the old H20 sitting there in the shed so might pull it apart so i know what im looking at.

Thanks for you help guys MUCH APPRECIATED!

[atari4x4]

4wd_products/Greg are really good to deal with, i'm sure it would be one of the better kits on the market.

this was my mate Jack's only worthwhile contribution to the place before he went all prosooky sooky lala

offroadjack wrote:

not bad, but still only very basic info on where timingmarks etc are.
sure, when you get to the stage where you are going to install the gears and chains etc it's the right info.
it's the little things that can catch you out before you get to this stage not mentioned in any manual, not even the genuine one i have on disk which is more detailed then this one.
it tells you, to name one, to remove the sump which is a lot of work and not really needed.
reason for that one is the cover won't come of if you don't, because of the 2 little studs in the bottom of the cover going through the sump.
as i'm in a good mood today i'll let you in on that little issue that saves a hell of a lot of time.
the studs come out very easy with some pliers in no time at all and that allowes you to take the cover off without removing the whole sump..the studs can be replaced with 2 bolts later.
it might have been covered on here somewhere as you always say and think i'm a know it all, but hey, i DON'T know it all and never will, but if it hasn't been covered you can thank me later.

[bigrig91]

If your not comfortable doing it mate do what i did. Buy the kit, pull the engine out and drop it off at a reputable mechanic. Cost me less than 300 in labour all done with warranty. Too easy.

[bigrig91]

I say pull the engine out because they will be alot nicer to you cost wise as in the car its a MAJOR PITA.

[murpha86]

ok cool. Has anyone removed the harmonic balancer on these?? is the retaining bot/nut reverse or standard thread?? Cheers

[murpha86]

ok cool as atari. Thanks! i only ask about the harmonic balancer as im pulling apart the H20 as we speak and im stuck on the bastard lol

[atari4x4]

standard thread, you'll need to lock up the motor somehow & use a breaker bar + extension, it will be proper tight!!!

[murpha86]

yes, its foooooooooooooking tight.... ok thanks ill keep trying.... maybe some heat?? ive got the motor locked up with a shifter in the hex parts of the cams. but bit worried it too much tension on them.... ll have a look at a better way of stoping it. Thanks

[ninjamoses]

Breaker bar resting against the floor or chassis rail + hitting the starter motor will do the job.
Failing that a beefy rattle gun - from memory there was just enough room with the radiator and crap out of the way.

EDIT: If the motor is already out of the car -> rattlegun is the way to go. I'd be hesitant to lock the motor by the hex on the camshafts. That is a whole shit load of pressure being applied through the timing chains/gears etc.
I've read some people lock the motor by using nylon rope or similar down a plug hole, but will be far easier to acquire a rattle gun

[atari4x4]

try locking up the flywheel end of the crankshaft