[ziggy]

Hey i was just wondering would it be worth putting a turbo charger on my 1992 1.3lt suzuki sierra? (Im a p plater)
And what turbo charger would i use and pricing?
If you've done it to your sierra or other zook please share information on it and maybe photos
Cheers
Ziggy!

[Teracis]

Are you even allowed to turbo a vehicle if you're on p plates?
Given everything people say about adding a turbo to a 1.3l zook (search there's heaps of threads like this one) you would be better off spending the time on your p plates learning to drive and 4wd the zook as it stands while gathering parts for a 1.6l conversion and do it once you're on your opens.

[Sixes350]

1.6 conversion is what I am saving the $ for although a snail off the side would be interesting.

As for the turbo on your P's, it comes down to power to weight ratio and somehow I don't think it would be a concern. Easiest if you call the WA transport office to confirm.

[Gwagensteve]

A snail on the side will most likely bankrupt you. Those that have done it quote $8-15k to build a reliable motor, which doesn't include building the rest of the driveline to take the torque, especially once you've added enough tyre to make the added torque of any use.

Steve.

[droverdave]

So many variables in cost, and so many variables in the defitinion of "reliable".

[VitNick]

If the laws are similar to NSW you can't drive turbo anything on your P's unless its diesel

[atari4x4]

you need nos

[sideways]

We can drive what ever we want on our Ps in W.A.

Put your money into a G16b conversion It'l take cubic dollars and time to get a turbo Sierra reliable and it's unlikely to be especially more powerful than a normal G16b powered Sierra. Having said that, there was a Sierra turbo "kit" for sale in the quokka for ages, dunno if it's still in there.

[dono1]

If your serious about doing it, have a look on outerlimits4x4 and search rhetts sierra...

[want33s]

dono1 wrote:

If your serious about doing it, have a look on outerlimits4x4 and search rhetts sierra...

Rhetts certainly works but it isn't reliable. He eats motors for breakfast.

[dono1]

want33s wrote:

dono1 wrote:

If your serious about doing it, have a look on outerlimits4x4 and search rhetts sierra...

Rhetts certainly works but it isn't reliable. He eats motors for breakfast.

Shit!
I was under the impression it was reliable..........


Any idea why he keeps destroying motors?

[mnemonix]

Because he bolted a turbo to a stock 1.3 and flogs the shit out of it under comp conditions? I thought that part would be obvious...

[atari4x4]

plus the fact it's on the bottle too.

[Red89]

mnemonix wrote:

Because he bolted a turbo to a stock 1.3 and flogs the shit out of it under comp conditions? I thought that part would be obvious...

[dono1]

mnemonix wrote:

Because he bolted a turbo to a stock 1.3 and flogs the shit out of it under comp conditions? I thought that part would be obvious...

I knew that but i thought it might be a tuning issue.
If it doesn't get flogged (and have nitrous) will it handle say 5psi?


I strapped a turbo to the side of my old engine, it blew the head gasket after 4 months. but it was on its last legs anyway and I couldn't get the afr spot on with the carby.
I'm thinking of putting a smaller turbo (ct12) on my new motor when I change it to straight gas. It hold be a lot easier to tune.

[want33s]

dono1 wrote:

If it doesn't get flogged (and have nitrous) will it handle say 5psi?

No.

[droverdave]

want33s wrote:

dono1 wrote:

If it doesn't get flogged (and have nitrous) will it handle say 5psi?

No.

In your experience what are the weak points in the g13a when it comes to adding forced induction?

ie what are the common failure modes that need addressing.

[want33s]

droverdave wrote:

In your experience what are the weak points in the g13a when it comes to adding forced induction?

ie what are the common failure modes that need addressing.

Apart from the block, the head, the rods/pistons and crank it's all good.

If you go nuts on specialty parts and fancy machinework then it IS possible to build a blown G13 that won't destroy itself but it WILL cost big $$$.

[droverdave]

Under what conditions have you seen the block fail?

[dono1]

Will a g13ba head fit onto a GTI block?

[TweakV2]

The g13b blocks are all the same if I'm not mistaken. Gti's have a forged crank which is a good start, buy some h beam con rods, low comp pistons, run the twin cam head with some port work. Probley want to o ring the block too. Like everyone has been saying, you only get what you put in.

[joel]

Just put a g16 in it ffs

[losfer]

I have seen every disaster in g13 engines you can imagine , and have photo evidence.

To start with here are the issues with turbocharging a carburetted engine..
1. the pressure of forced induction will blow out firstly the rubber boot on the accelerator pump , spewing fuel everywhere out of the top of the carby . the carby needs to be boxed to make the pressure inside and outside the carburettor the same .
2. For every pound of boost you need another pound of fuel pressure to make sure that you are delivering the right amount of fuel so you need some sort of rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
3. a carburettor works on vacuum in the venturi to draw fuel through , carbies are stupid they cant see boost pressure and will not add extra fuel under boost which results in a "lean out" . this will happen in the blink of an eye , and i dont mean the tiny detonation that sounds like a few nuts and bolts loose in the head , i mean piston melting ring destroying detonation , and you dont know its happening until you are billowing trails of burning oil smoke down the road. not to mention blowing head gaskets
4. the distributor will need to be regraphed . Normally a carburetted engine wants to see a nice curve where the timing advances over the rpm range , well when we are talking forced induction we dont want the distributor to advance ,we want to retard the ignition timing when we are coming on boost . to get a happy medium between the engine running right on and off boost is not easy and will result in hiccups and flat spots.

If you are serious about turbocharging on a budget i would suggest a cheap programmable ecu and throttle body injection. even then you will only be able to run up to 8psi on a stock engine with a good safe tune.

[dono1]

I was going to run straight gas (got propane kit) to fix the carby issue.
The rest is upin the air at the moment! Might just get a cam for a bit more torque...
My 1st motor detonated from a lean out and I was only tipunning 4-5 psi!

[pezz]

what do you hope to achieve by turboing it?

why not consider a different motor?


if i were to upgrade my motor and box and was looking for a little more than the norm
i'd be looking at a mazda fe dohc hooked up to a aw4
130hp stock, no turbo, no supercharger

[losfer]

TweakV2 wrote:

The g13b blocks are all the same if I'm not mistaken. Gti's have a forged crank which is a good start, buy some h beam con rods, low comp pistons, run the twin cam head with some port work. Probley want to o ring the block too. Like everyone has been saying, you only get what you put in.

Mate dont mean to offend you but there is nothing valid in your post that can help this guy , you are just regurgitating crap that you have read on the internet with no actual experience of your own , or no thought to what he is trying to achieve.

the g13b blocks are not all the same there are some that have a meatier webbing at the base of the block , but this only matters when trying to build a big HP engine , something which he isnt trying to achieve.

Gti does have a forged crank , but even a g13ba has a great crank , the gti crank is 10.2 kg and the g13a/ba crank is 7.6 kg . the only thing that will break the crankshaft is reciprocating masses . where a gti crank will happily rev to 9000 rpm daily the g13a/ba crank wont take it.

as for the conrods , they are virtually bulletproof , i have run the gti conrods in 240 hp engines , i have run std g13a conrods in 180hp engines without an issue!!! once again it all comes down to reciprocating mass , its usually not the rod that fails its the connecting bolts that fails that allows stretch and then big ends fail . We run better conrods like spool or pauter for extra insurance in the engines but its not usually a rod failure.

low compression pistons are for high boost , if you want to run 6 psi you would be going backward using low comp pistons , a high compression n/a motor would tear you a new arsehole if you were running low compression and 6psi.

last of all , o'ringing blocks is what they did in the 1990's , suppose he should go out and buy a copper head gasket too .. maybe i should sell him one , i have 2 of them hanging on my wall i will never sell ...

[atari4x4]

pezz wrote:

what do you hope to achieve by turboing it?

why not consider a different motor?


if i were to upgrade my motor and box and was looking for a little more than the norm
i'd be looking at a mazda fe dohc hooked up to a aw4
130hp stock, no turbo, no supercharger

keep it in the family & bung in a J20a, has been done before & you can get fitting kits for them out of the US

130 hp (97 kW)

[pezz]

atari4x4 wrote:

pezz wrote:

what do you hope to achieve by turboing it?

why not consider a different motor?


if i were to upgrade my motor and box and was looking for a little more than the norm
i'd be looking at a mazda fe dohc hooked up to a aw4
130hp stock, no turbo, no supercharger

keep it in the family & bung in a J20a, has been done before & you can get fitting kits for them out of the US

130 hp (97 kW)

i like the fe
they are solid from what i have seen and you can pick up a complete sportage with the aw4 for stuff all

[Gwagensteve]

X2.

The FE and AW-4 would cost less than the dyno bill alone from trying to tune a turbo G13.

Steve.

[losfer]

you can buy three commodores for the price of a decent dyno tune ...