[mpress94]

ive read through the forum about virtual lift and while all the info has been very helpful i have one question left.
before i start: my NT zook is stock suspension with 29's, im looking at going 31's with BL later on. andddd before anyone mentions doing Sus Lift ive thought about it but dont see the point since it already hits bum stops (IMO)

So those of you who have done virtual lifts can you tell me what you'd change or how well it works with 31's+

Has anyone made new inner wheel arches? I had mine on cross flex and on full steering lock it just misses the inner guards. with bigger tyres and BL it should clear the guard lip (after cutting) but im worried about scrubbing on the inner guards. The front bumper and tube will be removed/shortened to allow for clearance.

im currently running stock sierra rims but have offset wheels that sit about 2 inch outside the NT flares. which will only make my scrub situation worse?correct?
ill measure up the offset when i get home (i was told theyre off a landcruiser?)

[Marko_SJ]

If they really are off a cruiser offset is probably not what would be bothering me.

Land cruiser is six stud?

Would 5 stud land cruiser (100 series and 79 on?) work?

[Matthew]

I think the cruiser 5 stud are 150mm pcd.

[Marko_SJ]

Matthew wrote:

I think the cruiser 5 stud are 150mm pcd.

As for the second part of the question, and I am wary of answering this as it is not from my own experience it should be right with just a VL and around -15 offset.

31's would fit mine fine and I only have BL and -15's

[31zook]

31s fit with some hammering and a 30mm bump stop spacer in the front.

If you don't want to run a bump stop spacer, you can cut the guards but it's allot more work. And for 31s I can't really see the point (unless you have allot of time and you like welding tissue paper together).

When I've done it for bigger tyres I didn't replace the whole inner guard just plated up what I took out. I cheated and used 3mm I had around and made it a whole heap easier to weld.

[TweakV2]

Yes land cruiser 5 studs are 150mm and won't fit suzukis 139.7mm 5 stud pattern

[just_cruizin]

Yeah VL is a lot of work for minimal gain ensuring it looks good.

[Fatzook]

just_cruizin wrote:

Yeah VL is a lot of work for minimal gain ensuring it looks good.

I wouldn't call it minimal gain at all. VL is a good substitute for a body lift.

And I can't believe that nobody has mentioned the OP's decision to skip over the suspension lift. Yes.... it will lift the car. No.... it will not give the tyres any more room besides when the vehicle is at rest, but it will give more travel, and a better ride ( thanks to longer springs ).

If it were my car, i'd be fitting RUF on 2" springs ( leaves removed of coarse ) and Virt lift. Bump stop spacers as required.

JMO
Peter

[scottiej]

I've done a few virtual lifts and you should be fine to clear 31s with no lift, I would agree that going ruf and 2" springs on the rear would be a good option.
This is probably the best thread to look at for examples viewtopic.php?t=34550

[just_cruizin]

For the amount of work involved I would say its minimal compared to the options. I would suggest new suspension, not necessarily with any lift. It should still flex but won't put it too high. It will lift the vehicle from where it is now but just what the springs have sagged.

[atari4x4]

apparently you need 3" springs, 2" shackles & maybe a bodylift for 32's viewtopic.php?f=4&t=42230

[mpress94]

Hahaha I saw that post Atari.

Yeah I'll be doing RUF soon so don't wanna buy new springs when they're just gonna be replaced in a few months.For the moment, low as possible with 31's is the aim, and then lockers and gears:)

ScottieJ how far into the guard did you cut? Just the lip or did you massage any of the inner guard?

[mpress94]

Eventually I want to get it to the point where it's similar to the purple soft top on here, I think maybe sierra Dan's

[sideways]

I did 30s with no lift on my 1l (NT), just trimmed the bumper mounts down and added bump stop spacing to the front. 31s would be easy as if you chopped the outriggers off.

[scottiej]

mpress94 wrote:

ScottieJ how far into the guard did you cut? Just the lip or did you massage any of the inner guard?

Have a look on Page 3 of the thread I linked in my last post, there's pics of two of the virtual lifts I've done showing how much was cut out. The first is on a mates with 2" lift and 31s, you'll notice in the second picture that there is a slit cut in the driver side inner front guard, so that you can bend the guard to follow the curve of the arch, also at the front of the inner guard there was a bit of persuasion with a hammer involved to blend in the guard to the cut. For 31s we just cut around the lower edge of the dimple in the bodywork and then persuade the inner guards to line up as close as possible, its not far off anyway.
On the next one I do, I'm going to drill out all the spot welds on the flare mounting lip so I can re-attach them with the original arches after the virtual for a "factory" look.

[mpress94]

Thanks guys:) Pretty much everything I needed to know I like the look of the tubs but probably something the boys in blue would pick up on pretty quick. I've got 3 widetrack flares at home so just need one more and then it's cutting time

[mmbls]

i have no photos of my virtual lift, but i helped usher 44 do his virtual lift after doing mine, which involved cutting the guard at desired height, removing inner guard completely (cutting below the headlight bucket area) and then remounting the inner guard at the new height, allows for a lot more up travel, looks a lot more legit
http://auszookers.com/forum/download/file.php?id=10535
can also move guard forward to accommodate a RUF