[buzbox]

I'm not quite understanding why Mr Suzuki would put the handbrake on the rear of the transfer case.

Can someone please explain to me why, and which would be better to use, rear drum like most other WT Sierras, or the transfer brake.

Thanks.

[Gwagensteve]

Initially, simplicity. Jeep, land rover, Nissan 4wd's and many trucks used a drum on the back of the gearbox/transfer. I also suspect its related to having non-self adjusting drums. In some markets, the transfer drum didn't meet design standards so a diff lock was fitted to allow the transfer drum to work on both rear wheels.

Suzuki moved the park brake to the wheels with the WT.

My preference is the transfer drum. It's simpler and allows the use of front callipers all round. I like less stuff rather than more stuff down on the axle.

Steve.

[charged88]

doesn't it also have mechanical advantage of the diff ratio....

[speedyblue]

The transfer drum brake gives much better decent control. If you getting too much speed going down a steep slope and pull the handbrake on a rear drum set-up, you'll have a bad day. Drum on the transfer slows front and back axles down nicely if the engine braking isn't enough.

My landy is one of the isuzu ones, so has very good engine braking and a good low range. I've still needed a few clicks on the handbrake to further slow the car while reversing down a slipery hill I didn't quite make it up. Better option than touching the brake pedal.

[rob45x]

Do you guys think the transfer case hbrake might get caught up on more rocks ?

Also when you put a transfer case hbrake on a wide track you have to change the rear tailshaft flange to a smaller stud. Will that make the driveline weaker ie easier to snap studs off the flange ?

[pezz]

my transfer normally plows the rocks befoer the drum get to them

[buzbox]

speedyblue wrote:

Drum on the transfer slows front and back axles down nicely if the engine braking isn't enough.

Ahh now that's clever.

[pezz]

buzbox wrote:

speedyblue wrote:

Drum on the transfer slows front and back axles down nicely if the engine braking isn't enough.

Ahh now that's clever.

correct gearing works even better
i would imagine mr suzuki designed the hand brake to hold the car in place once stopped
rather then to slow the car down

i have replaced a few truck gearboxs due to bent output shafts from miss use of the hand brake

[just_cruizin]

Handbrake on rear drums for those without lockers can apply enough load on a spinning wheel the force drive onto the opposite tyre.

[Zook_Fan]

speedyblue wrote:

The transfer drum brake gives much better decent control. If you getting too much speed going down a steep slope and pull the handbrake on a rear drum set-up, you'll have a bad day. Drum on the transfer slows front and back axles down nicely if the engine braking isn't enough.

My landy is one of the isuzu ones, so has very good engine braking and a good low range. I've still needed a few clicks on the handbrake to further slow the car while reversing down a slipery hill I didn't quite make it up. Better option than touching the brake pedal.

If the front and rear diffs are connected without a differential in the transfer case how can the front spin faster than the rear regardless of the position of the handbrake? As long as either your rear diff is locked, or both of your back wheels are on the ground a rear handbrake will still stop the front diff from accelerating because they are mechanically linked through the drive shafts and transfer. If you lift a front wheel it may allow the car to run away on the other wheel but the point is mute as it would happen regardless of the handbrake type.

Also with a transfer handbrake if you are crossed up, a wheel on each end of the car off the ground, you will not have any control using the handbrake whereas on the axle one side will still brake.

rob45x wrote:

Do you guys think the transfer case hbrake might get caught up on more rocks ?

Also when you put a transfer case hbrake on a wide track you have to change the rear tailshaft flange to a smaller stud. Will that make the driveline weaker ie easier to snap studs off the flange ?

Yes it may be more susceptible to rocks, wouldn't hurt to guard it. When putting one on a WT you can either change the flange at the diff or change the yoke on the drive shaft. The yoke on the diff will need the diff out to do it properly as you won't get the right preload on the pinion if you swap them with the centre in the housing. The yoke on the driveshaft would be better.