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Vehicle: 98 Jim, 3" Lift, 235/75's

Post Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 6:23 pm 
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G'day guys, just a quick question. After cooking my motor, blowing my second auto and munching a cv in my '98 Jim, I've just bought a stat write-off donor vehicle for $1250.
It's a 2001 manual, m13a model. The plan is to swap the motor and box over but before I get stuck in, I just want to know if anyone out there has done a similar conversion and if there are any little things to be wary of.
Obviously full wiring, dash etc will be swapped over and it SHOULD be reasonably straight forward, being a complete car and not just a bare motor and box.

Flame on if you will.

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Post Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 8:35 pm 
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Sounds reasonable but I've heard the gear ratios are all different in the gearbox/transfer so you may need to fit the m transfer too.
Zukenutter is good at the details.

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Post Posted: Sun Sep 22, 2013 7:06 pm 
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Sounds like quite a task. i would have suggested replacing with same kiind, and perhaps an upgrade to G16.

The transfer cases are the same in the Mk1 and Mk2. It was only the electronic VVT models which are very different.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 5:37 pm 
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Bugsta wrote:

The transfer cases are the same in the Mk1 and Mk2. It was only the electronic VVT models which are very different.


Auto and manual?

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Vehicle: 98 Jim, 3" Lift, 235/75's

Post Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:44 pm 
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Yeah it's a big job, but I couldn't argue with the price.
By the time I sourced a g16, conversion kit, gearbox and all the other little things (clutch cable, pedal box etc) not to mention all the other goodies on the donor I'd probably be looking at double what I paid. Plus having a shell to scrap at the end.
And then at least this way I'm in a better position for a freaky m18/16 hybrid if this motor grenades too.

I'll count the turns on the transfer and let you know how I go if you like.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 7:14 pm 
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want33s wrote:
Bugsta wrote:

The transfer cases are the same in the Mk1 and Mk2. It was only the electronic VVT models which are very different.


Auto and manual?

From teh research I have done... I believe so.

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 7:28 pm 
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Kayday wrote:
Yeah it's a big job, but I couldn't argue with the price.
By the time I sourced a g16, conversion kit, gearbox and all the other little things (clutch cable, pedal box etc) not to mention all the other goodies on the donor I'd probably be looking at double what I paid. Plus having a shell to scrap at the end.
I thought a g16b would simply replace a g13b with no other mods or changes needed? and therefore the geawould just bolt up.rbox
Kayday wrote:
And then at least this way I'm in a better position for a freaky m18/16 hybrid if this motor grenades too.
Except that an m18/16 are VVT. m13a is not.

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Vehicle: 98 Jim, 3" Lift, 235/75's

Post Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 7:42 pm 
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For the g16 wouldn't I still also need a suzistore style conversion plate and mount?

Is an m18 bottom end with a non vvt m15/16 head not viable?

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Post Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 10:41 pm 
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I don't know the differences in block and heads. But I do know the ECU needs to know about it.

I have not seen any discussions on mixing m series blocks and heads. And I reckon you would open up a whole can of ECU questions having mismatched top and bottom. Not like the ol days of 'a smaller capacity head will give you higher compression' type result.

Perhaps someone can chime in - Is the m13a (non VVT) block the same as G13 or m13aa, and which does that make the gearbox bolt pattern same as g or aa? I think its the same as the aa model and hence the same as m15/16/18. And I believe that the g16 would bolt straight up to the gearbox you currently have, being that its a G13. Let me know if I'm wrong.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 5:07 am 
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G16 will need an adapter to bolt to any G13 gearbox.

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 5:16 am 
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want33s wrote:
G16 will need an adapter to bolt to any G13 gearbox.
Seems odd to me. Are these adapters expensive?

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Post Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 4:40 pm 
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BenT sells a kit.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Suzuki-Sierr ... 19e28348f6


Petroworks sell a kit.... http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... r-kit.html


Trailtough sell a kit... http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... r-kit.html


The other option is to weld lugs to the bellhousing. The two top bellhousing bolts already line up so you just have to widen the bottom two by about 15mm each if memory serves...

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Vehicle: 98 Jim, 3" Lift, 235/75's

Post Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 5:01 pm 
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Or Suzistore for a local option too... http://www.suzistore.com.au/onlinestore ... etail.html

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Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:22 pm
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Vehicle: Sj51t

Post Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 8:27 am 
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You wanna sell any parts of your write off jimny
I need front seats and door trims as my front seats are shot!?

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 4:50 pm 
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Where are you kayday?

If the rear seats are split (including base) I'd be interested in them.

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 5:00 pm 
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I have rear seat seat the spilt ones from Myn if you intersted
I am in vic tho

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Vehicle: 98 Jim, 3" Lift, 235/75's

Post Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 5:03 pm 
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Sydney. Let me strip her down then I'll throw up a sale thread. The interiors deadset immaculate, but it's a poverty pack (vinyl and plastic all round and wind up windows).

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:03 pm 
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They are all plastic and vynil all round. No Leather in tehse things

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Post Posted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:57 pm 
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I'll take seats and door trims and pob more

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Vehicle: 98 Jim, 3" Lift, 235/75's

Post Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 5:15 pm 
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So about 30 hours later, she's all done.
It was pretty straight forward really, with only a few little snags along the way.

My advice to anyone going to attempt the conversion would be get a half cut. The motor was pretty much plug and play but just be wary that powersteer and a.c. hoses are ever so slightly different. The a.c. bracket/tensioner is also different depending on whether the car has p/steer or not.

The m13 gearbox also sits about 25mm further back than the g13 auto and as such the holes for the mount don't line up, but it's nothing a quick re-drill won't fix.

The holes in the tunnels for the shifters differ as well, with the manual shifter needing a much bigger hole to fit through and the threaded holes for the boots are also differently spaced.

Chop out the footrest or you'll clip it with the side of your foot. (The pedal box physically fits with it in there, though).

The cluster is plug and play, the engine mounts are the same, just drop the steering to pull the pedal box there's no need to disconnect it and appart from that it's probably one of the easiest motor swaps I've come across in ten years in the trade. Very straight forward. Bring on Fraser Island.

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Vehicle: 01 Jimny softop

Post Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 12:32 pm 
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so just to confirm, you said the motor is just like a swap in swap out?

I'm considering doing a similar style conversion, only mine is a manual, and i am only thinking about changing the engine,

mines a g13bb out of one of the 2001 jimny Santana soft top
do you recon it'll work?

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Vehicle: 98 Jim, 3" Lift, 235/75's

Post Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 4:39 pm 
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It was quite straight forward, but I'd just confirm that the gearboxes are the same first.

You'll need the complete wiring harness and ecu from the m motor as well. Unless you can source it all quite cheaply, I'd also consider a g16 conversion.

In my opinion the m series motors are realistically superior in terms of design and technology than the g series, however a g16 would undoubtedly go harder than an m13 and the conversion would probably be just as straight forward (if not slightly easier) than an m13.

I hope that helps.

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