[tanshi]

So im looking into the ins and outs of building a buggy.
I know that hydro steering is the way to go, but im wondering if you really need to go to the extent of buying orbitals, double ended rams, blah blah blah.

Could you not, just use hydro assist lines nfrom your steering box, hooked up to a ram but use it as the only method of steering and do away with the main drag link completely

[want33s]

It won't work unless the pitman arm has a load on it.

[tanshi]

ahh ok, is that how it works

[SierraDan]

You could use an orbital and run a single ended ram on a tie rod.

[royce]

tanshi wrote:

ahh ok, is that how it works

http://www.howstuffworks.com/steering4.htm

[31zook]

Single ended rams need different rotation in each direction. I.E 3 turns to the left 5 to the right.

And to got a double ended ram is only $350 and the rest of the hydro system works the same anyway.

[SierraDan]

Not true to that extreme josh. That was just how appsies went. Pretty sure its fixed now with his new orby.

[Zook_Fan]

Unless his orbital can increase flow/pressure in one direction the car will always steer slower one way than the other.

Pressure = Force of hydraulic fluid x Area of contact

Single ended ram for example:
To the left
Pressure = Force of hydraulic fluid x Area of piston
To the right
Pressure = Force of hydraulic fluid x (Area of piston - Area of the rod)

Double ended ram has identical areas for steering left or right, allowing the speed to be the same and the rotations of the wheel.

[SierraDan]

Yeah, they are uneven. But the 3/5 is bad. Its not that bad in other cars ive driven.

[Parry]

If you search around, hydro ain't all that expensive...

[SierraDan]

Nah, its not.

But say $200 saved in one spot can go somewhere else. I would get double ended, but tanshi may not want to for budgeting reasons.

[Zook_Fan]

The good quality gear isn't really that cheap either, depends how much you want a trouble free weekend when you want to wheel in my opinion.

[tanshi]

how can quality really differ? is it better to get cheeper rams and a better quality orbital? obviously you want the best of both but not every one needs a $3000 PSC kit

[SierraDan]

Pump and lines should be priority in my opinion.

Heavy duty lines and proper crimped fittings. A blown fitting is a pain in the arse. As is a damged hose.
And no good having good hydro steer if your pump cant keep up/handle continuous stress.

Keep it cool too.

[Zook_Fan]

I'm currently waiting to get a quote back from poly performance for freight but a PSC kit even from Australian retailers will not cost $3000 unless you've got one hell of a ram on there, it's looking much less from overseas if duty can be avoided.

I agree with Dan. For me you want a good pump, great cooling and a matched orbital and ram. Look at the flow rates, decide how much you want to turn the wheel lock to lock, make an informed decision and go from there. Lines and fittings need to be up to the task, they are the last line of having any control over your steering.

[SierraDan]

Have been a long way into a creek and damaged a front steer line. Was very difficult to get out.

Also been stuck after a reuseable fitting blew.

[rick1970]

SierraDan wrote:

Have been a long way into a creek and damaged a front steer line. Was very difficult to get out.

Also been stuck after a reuseable fitting blew.

Those fittings usually only let go for 3 reasons if everything this is otherwise good......
1. That have been reused...field attachable they are, reusable they are not meant to be...
2. Wrong fitting/hose combo
3. not fitted correctly

Since a properly set up steer system should only be running at a moderate pressure, screw on fittings should not be an issue. I would have no issue running a screw on type fitting and a 3/8 sized hose to 3500-4000 psi...steering would run at maybe 1500-1800 max psi if ram is sized correctly.

A single rod cylinder designed for steering will usually have a smallish rod, this will minimize the difference in turns L-L. Ag style cylinders are usually cheaper, but most use a larger rod and this will make the difference in L-L more noticeable. No reason you could not run 2 x smaller single rod cylinders, one on each side, either.

To be honest, I have never seen a 'cheap' orbital valve, plenty of Eaton (Char-Lynn), Danfoss and a few TRW/Ross and ZF's. They are, and really need to be, a fairly precision bit of gear.