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Post Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:40 am 
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Not sure where to put this thread, so feel free to move it if it's in the wrong location.

I am looking for a trailer coupling that will allow me to go off road, ALTHOUGH, I still need to maintain my tow ball, as my dad will need to use the trailer for regular things, and he is not willing to swap his tow ball over.
I was looking at a Hyland Coupling (http://www.probar.net.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=49&products_id=441) but is it $300, I was wondering does anyone know of another coupling suited for what I need and where I could get it?

Thanks.

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Vehicle: Suzuki Sierra 1996 SJ80

Post Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 11:05 am 
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We have a Hyland on our jayco camper van.
It's awsome man. I'd just spend the 300 or look on the net for one of them!
Highly recommended

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 11:09 am 
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Bozy97 wrote:
We have a Hyland on our jayco camper van.
It's awsome man. I'd just spend the 300 or look on the net for one of them!
Highly recommended

My trailer is only tiny and cost me under $300 to make so I really didn't want to spend too much on it. I found an Alko one on gumtree for $175. A year old. Know anything about these couplings?

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Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:39 pm
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Vehicle: 1995 2.0V6 Vitara LWB

Post Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 2:38 pm 
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cut up an old driveshaft where the uni join is and weld 1 end to your trailer and 1 end to the square tube hitch receiver, then just slide it in and push in the pin

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:06 pm 
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tassie jeeper wrote:
cut up an old driveshaft where the uni join is and weld 1 end to your trailer and 1 end to the square tube hitch receiver, then just slide it in and push in the pin

Hahaha that is a pretty sneaky way of doing it on the cheap. Pitty I need to maintain a tow ball style coupling for my dad.

Has anyone tested the limits for a standard towball coupling's articulation? I might be able to go without one, It's just so I can get to a campsite, I don't intend on doing serious 4wding with it.

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:22 pm 
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karlmarkiewicz wrote:
tassie jeeper wrote:
cut up an old driveshaft where the uni join is and weld 1 end to your trailer and 1 end to the square tube hitch receiver, then just slide it in and push in the pin

Hahaha that is a pretty sneaky way of doing it on the cheap. Pitty I need to maintain a tow ball style coupling for my dad.

Has anyone tested the limits for a standard towball coupling's articulation? I might be able to go without one, It's just so I can get to a campsite, I don't intend on doing serious 4wding with it.

Welding an old uni joint is hell dodgy - although there is a proper offroad coupling that uses a large ('cruiser?) uni joint.

If you are just getting into a campsite or going up the beach then a ball joint is fine - think of all the campgrounds people get there trailer queens and trailered comp rigs to.

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Post Posted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:57 pm 
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karlmarkiewicz wrote:
I need to maintain a tow ball style coupling for my dad.

as long as u have a late model style hitch setup with the RHS that slides in and out with the locking pin and r clip than ud good to go just pull the pin on the towball hitch and slide the new 1 in tada...

Reubs wrote:
Welding an old uni joint is hell dodgy - although there is a proper offroad coupling that uses a large ('cruiser?) uni joint.
think of all the campgrounds people get there trailer queens and trailered comp rigs to.

i wouldn't say dodgy "illegal" maybe but there is no way that u will exert more load on your trailer hitch than u will a drive shaft or steering knuckle, hell some trailers just have a nylon block with cross drilled holes (like a plastic uni joint) and their all good ;)

its not a dodgy way its a budget way :mrgreen:

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:08 pm 
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Reubs wrote:
karlmarkiewicz wrote:
tassie jeeper wrote:
cut up an old driveshaft where the uni join is and weld 1 end to your trailer and 1 end to the square tube hitch receiver, then just slide it in and push in the pin

Hahaha that is a pretty sneaky way of doing it on the cheap. Pitty I need to maintain a tow ball style coupling for my dad.

Has anyone tested the limits for a standard towball coupling's articulation? I might be able to go without one, It's just so I can get to a campsite, I don't intend on doing serious 4wding with it.

Welding an old uni joint is hell dodgy - although there is a proper offroad coupling that uses a large ('cruiser?) uni joint.

If you are just getting into a campsite or going up the beach then a ball joint is fine - think of all the campgrounds people get there trailer queens and trailered comp rigs to.

Yeah, that is true. Well, I might see how I go with the tow ball setup then. I was just worried because I have been to Land Cruiser Mountain Park and Double Island point a few times and I know for LCMP there are a few water crossings/gullies you have to go through, and for double island point you have to drive over a fair few rocks. But by the looks of it, Tow balls have fairly decent articulation anyway.

tassie jeeper wrote:
karlmarkiewicz wrote:
I need to maintain a tow ball style coupling for my dad.

as long as u have a late model style hitch setup with the RHS that slides in and out with the locking pin and r clip than ud good to go just pull the pin on the towball hitch and slide the new 1 in tada...

I need the tow ball on the trailer, because my dad will use the trailer on his commodore which has a towball setup that can't be removed because he also needs to tow a boat with the towball. Good Idea though :D

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Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:39 pm
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 10:57 am 
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karlmarkiewicz wrote:
might see how I go with the tow ball setup then. I was just worried because I have been to Land Cruiser Mountain Park and Double Island point a few times and I know for LCMP there are a few water crossings/gullies you have to go through, and for double island point you have to drive over a fair few rocks. But by the looks of it, Tow balls have fairly decent articulation anyway.

I need the tow ball on the trailer, because my dad will use the trailer on his commodore which has a towball setup that can't be removed because he also needs to tow a boat with the towball. Good Idea though :D


aah i get cha now :oops: :lol:

as for the towball iv never had a problem taking our trailer camping iv taken our 7x4 box over the dunes (solo trip) iv taken her up forestry etc no issues with the ball yet it just bounces along behind ;) :lol:

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 2:15 pm 
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Not sure what you are actually after here, but I just leave a tow ball in each coupling i.e boat trailer, box trailer, saw bench then just do up the nut when you put the trailer on the vehicle. Works for me. Armsup Armsup Armsup

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Post Posted: Fri Oct 04, 2013 3:15 pm 
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tassie jeeper wrote:
karlmarkiewicz wrote:
might see how I go with the tow ball setup then. I was just worried because I have been to Land Cruiser Mountain Park and Double Island point a few times and I know for LCMP there are a few water crossings/gullies you have to go through, and for double island point you have to drive over a fair few rocks. But by the looks of it, Tow balls have fairly decent articulation anyway.

I need the tow ball on the trailer, because my dad will use the trailer on his commodore which has a towball setup that can't be removed because he also needs to tow a boat with the towball. Good Idea though :D


aah i get cha now :oops: :lol:

as for the towball iv never had a problem taking our trailer camping iv taken our 7x4 box over the dunes (solo trip) iv taken her up forestry etc no issues with the ball yet it just bounces along behind ;) :lol:

Oh really. Okay. I think I might have been over thinking it then, it sounds like it manages fine.
Thanks for the info.

krat wrote:
Not sure what you are actually after here, but I just leave a tow ball in each coupling i.e boat trailer, box trailer, saw bench then just do up the nut when you put the trailer on the vehicle. Works for me. Armsup Armsup Armsup

I don't think this is exactly what I want, But i get what you mean. :D

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