[zukenutter]

Should be even easier than a Sierra transfer swap

[jimny_timmy]

Jezza86 wrote:

http://www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=32700
31.3% reduction depending on accuracy of rpm figures. auto transfer is supposed to be a 1:32 in high so pretty close. interestingly makes me question the accuracy of the percentages of the TJ gears. the 20% tj set mony had may hav been a 27% set instead as you have the same end rpm

It won't be 31.3%, the manual models have a different diff ratio to the manuals. 4.3 compared to 4.09 if I remember correctly. So Bugstas 27% is probs closer.

[Bugsta]

jimny_timmy wrote:

Jezza86 wrote:

http://www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=32700
31.3% reduction depending on accuracy of rpm figures. auto transfer is supposed to be a 1:32 in high so pretty close. interestingly makes me question the accuracy of the percentages of the TJ gears. the 20% tj set mony had may hav been a 27% set instead as you have the same end rpm

It won't be 31.3%, the manual models have a different diff ratio to the manuals. 4.3 compared to 4.09 if I remember correctly. So Bugstas 27% is probs closer.

Bugsta's 27% is 100% accurate. I have counted the teeth in both cases and reported this in the quoted thread.

ok.. 26.9%

[austuff]

Hi, received the t-case today but one of the connections wires has broken off probably in transit I guess. Can anyone advise what this is for (speedo?). And do you know if I can disconnect the one from my manual and use it instead on this auto t-case?





Is there a way I can check that this t-case is actually from an auto setup before I install it?


Apologies for my queries if they appear too noobish


cheers

[Bugsta]

It is not speedo. It is one of the 4WD sensors. Its just a Open/Close switch. I damaged mine the first time I swapped. A lot seem to have the wires facing out. I dug out all the epoxy, re-soldered, and filled with araldite. Good as new. Looks like yours has brokem the plastic so you are kinda half way there. But you will want to glue it all back together once you've fixed the wires.

You can rotate the blue part so that the wires face inward.

As for case type... Do a rotation test. Use a liquid paper pen or nikko to mark spots on the case and flange, on the input and rear output. rotate the input once. If the output has gone only about 3/4 of a revolution, its an auto. If it has returned to start, its a manual.

[austuff]

Hi, thanks Bugsta, did the rotation test and is indeed an auto

So if i can't manage to reconnect using whats left of the broken plastic bit on the end of the wire I should dig out the wires and solder them together and fill with araldite. Do you remember if the epoxy enclosed wires were colored to make it easy to match them up for soldering (know which wire goes where)?

Cheers

[Bugsta]

I would not bother with 'whats left' in that sense.


Chip away all the epoxy from both pieces.



Under the epoxy there are 2 vertical contacts with slits (possibly holes, can't remember) for the bare wire ends to slip into. De-solder the old bits, and solder the newly stripped wire ends.


There are 2 entry holes in the side of the blue unit. I suspect it has broken through these holes. Once soldered, glue the broken piece back on with araldite and fill the recess around the wires. They are not polarised. Its just a switch.

[austuff]

Thanks Bugsta really appreciate it (and hopefully this info with be handy for others one day as well)

Cheers

[JayKay]

austuff wrote:

Thanks Bugsta really appreciate it (and hopefully this info with be handy for others one day as well)

Cheers

Awesome Stuff!


Mines looking similar, swapping out next week.
Did anyone find out if they can be swapped from the Manual to the auto Case?

[Bugsta]

As I said, its just a switch, so yes.

[JayKay]

Bugsta wrote:

As I said, its just a switch, so yes.

Cheers mate

[JayKay]

Shep - thanks for the info mate.
Swapped my transfer in today, it was as easy as you said.
Even being my first time tackling something like this myself I still knocked it over in an hour n a half.

[shep]

Have ya been for a drive yet?

[JayKay]

shep wrote:

Have ya been for a drive yet?

Just got back, I love it !!!

[shep]

It's a huge difference hay. Best thing I have done to mine

[JayKay]

shep wrote:

It's a huge difference hay. Best thing I have done to mine

I agree 100%

[austuff]

Hi, got the transfer case in this afternoon and it went in well so big thanks to everyone for these posts. I have a problem though and not sure if I should start a new post or not?

When selecting 4wd i am hearing the click from under car than after about 4 seconds getting a single flash of the 4wd light and its then it stays off. I think it may be stuck in 4wd high range even though I see no light on.

I did replace the bolted on switch (mentioned above) with my good one from the removed case but the new (auto) t-case also had damage to the wide black switch housing and bent pins on that switch think it has about seven pins and its on the bottom, rear passenger side of case, the motor?


Maybe I best get it in to Suzuki, or an auto electrician? Any ideas you guys?


Cheers

[macguyverjimny]

Sorry for the silly question, but where do you guys source these auto transfercases?

Ebay? Or on the classifield section on here?

Would live to get the gearing done please help.

Thanx for all the info:) well done

[JayKay]

macguyverjimny wrote:

Sorry for the silly question, but where do you guys source these auto transfercases?

Ebay? Or on the classifield section on here?

Would live to get the gearing done please help.

Thanx for all the info:) well done

I got mine off a forum member

[shep]

I got mine from a wrecking yard in Sydney

[austuff]

Mine from eBay ($395 + freight) but pretty sure they just yanked it out of a wreck without un-clpping all the wiring
Cheers

[JayKay]

austuff wrote:

I did replace the bolted on switch (mentioned above) with my good one from the removed case but the new (auto) t-case also had damage to the wide black switch housing and bent pins on that switch think it has about seven pins and its on the bottom, rear passenger side of case, the motor?


Maybe I best get it in to Suzuki, or an auto electrician? Any ideas you guys?


Cheers

I swapped the one above no Drama's from my Manual case.
Dunno about the other one sorry dude

[austuff]

Having a look around the net I think maybe I've lost the ball behind the 4WD switch when I've swapped them over I'll have a look at home tonight

Cheers

[zukenutter]

How recently had the old transfer be in 4WD? Was it definitely engaging?
Could it be an unrelated coincidence?

[austuff]

No idea about the history of this box, problem with Darwin hard to check stuff out properly before you buy. All good now though, rummaged through the old oil and found the small ball bearing that sits in the 4wd switch assay quickly put it back in and 4WD working again now. Duhhh, some people just shouldn't play at mechanic hey

Have a deep vibration sound in first and second gear at about 3500RPM I hope might be related to over-tightening the new ORA t-case brackets and bushes. I'll check that out next weekend as I can have some hoist time at work. Maybe I overtightened them or maybe I stuffed up the alignment on the front tail-shaft slip joint (hope not).

I'm thinking to drop the oil again to see if any metal comes out of this new transfer-case after a couple of floggings in the scrub

Love this gearing, thinking I can safely go to 235 muddies now instead of the planned 215's. I'll post back the revs and speed for 225/75r15's once I find and charge the old GPS

Made a quick hop out & walk-along clip in low range 1st gear, car can idol along nicely itself now in some sand. Put it here



Thanks again posters to this topic

Cheers

[zukenutter]

Glad it was an easy fix.

[jimny_timmy]

I have had the vibration from over tightening. You'll see it straight away if it your cause of vibration, the bolt head or but will have pushed through the rubber bush.

[Jezza86]

is there a part number for a transfer case? im having some trouble finding one...

[Bugsta]

austuff wrote:

...or maybe I stuffed up the alignment on the front tail-shaft slip joint (hope not).

Personally, I would hope SO. this is the easiest fix.

[austuff]

Hi, Bugsta, pal, buddy

If my mark was umm lost (read rubbed off by now in the sand yesterday) when I marked slip joint what is the best way to proceed with getting it back in the right notch? Manually trying each one ?

Cheers