[Bugsta]

Line up the 2 Uni joints so they are in exactly the same orientation (phase) as each other. Thats it.

Uni joints actually change rotational speed slightly when not completely straight. And for this reason, the Unis need to be in phase and running within a few degrees of each other, regardless of the angle of the shaft. So a lift effectively changes this running angle (and castor).

[austuff]

Ahhh, you mean like this?



thanks again

[Bugsta]

correct

[Bugsta]

austuff. Let us know if it was out and weather it made a difference.

[austuff]

Will do, won't get on the hoist till Sat or Sunday, and i'll be damned if i'm gonna squeeze back under her again this week

Cheers

[Bugsta]

29's and a 3" lift means no squeezing

[austuff]

Vibration gone, loosened the ora t-case bracket bushes and I fixed the phase on the front tail-shaft (I was a couple notches out). Thinking the loosening of the bushes was the main culprit as the vibration was there in 2wd so the front tail-shaft wouldn't have been in play in 2wd (I guess). Although I'm glad I now have the uni's in phase

Now for some miracle tool to get at the filler bolt for the manual gearbox!

Cheers

[Bugsta]

Good stuff. What have you tried so far to get the filler bolt out?

[austuff]

Couldn't physically seem to get to it with a 3/8 ratchet and nowhere near it with a 10 mm drain wrench from ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Laser-Tools-Drain-Plug-Wrench-8mm-10mm-Square-3121-/231029890693?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item35ca745e85

Just doesn't seem to be enough space between the filler plug and the body of the car? Could they have made it any harder! Or am I missing something


Cheers

[jimny_timmy]

I got mine with a 3/8 ratchet. But it's considerably smaller then a normal 1/2 inch one.

Persistence is the key

[zukenutter]

Mine hasn't been out for a long time
Very stuck and stripped.

[Jezza86]

looks like i'm jumping on this bandwagon. $895 + shipping.

[Bugsta]

Ouch.

If you can wait a while, I'm looking at bringing in some Protrack gears that will mod your manual box.

[atari4x4]

austuff wrote:

Couldn't physically seem to get to it with a 3/8 ratchet and nowhere near it with a 10 mm drain wrench from ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Laser-Tools-Drain-Plug-Wrench-8mm-10mm-Square-3121-/231029890693?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item35ca745e85

Just doesn't seem to be enough space between the filler plug and the body of the car? Could they have made it any harder! Or am I missing something


Cheers

any one of these sockets on a ratchet should do the job http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= ... &_from=R40

[Jezza86]

Bugsta wrote:

Ouch.

If you can wait a while, I'm looking at bringing in some Protrack gears that will mod your manual box.

thanks but i think ill keep my 5s manual stock. if i get a m18 approved (and find a motor, and bring it here to gove) ill want the standard gearing for NT speeds (130+).
even if the pro track gears are 400 bucks cheaper ive got a entire redundant transfer if i bugger something up. it also means until i get approval for the things i already have everything is just bolt on mods that can be reversed if necessary.
cheers
Jez

[Bugsta]

Protrack will have 50% Low range only set. Which of course won't effect High range.

I'll know pricing for these within a few weeks I think.

[swb_ddis]

Bugsta wrote:

Protrack will have 50% Low range only set. Which of course won't effect High range.

I'll know pricing for these within a few weeks I think.

Cool news for Jimnys with electronic transfer!!

[Jezza86]

Gigity...
worked a treat, 1st gear is amaizballs with no real need for lowrange on soft sand, which is excellent as im not speed limited to 50kph on sand in lowrange.
4150-4170 rpm in 5th to hit 100kph, and the speedo is 100% perfect
you get used to the extra revs quite fast, but i do find myself reaching tor 6th every now and again.

[austuff]

What size tyres you running Jezza?

Cheers

[JayKay]

Jezza86 wrote:

you get used to the extra revs quite fast, but i do find myself reaching tor 6th every now and again.

Same here, thou my fuel economy hasn't really changed for better or worse.
Still get around 280-320 ish KMs to a tank.

[Jezza86]

austuff wrote:

What size tyres you running Jezza?

Cheers

30x9.5 bfgkm2 85% tread on 15x7 -15mm on speedy desert rats.

[Anfo]

[quote="Bugsta"]Protrack will have 50% Low range only set. Which of course won't effect High range.

I'll know pricing for these within a few weeks
So are the protrack gears available now or still in development? Either way sounds good

[Jezza86]

still under dev, and currently they request supply of a set of gears for modification in greece. 50% reduction will make 5th 5000rpm less than 30kph in most cases.

[Bugsta]

Anfo wrote:

Bugsta wrote:

Protrack will have 50% Low range only set. Which of course won't effect High range.

I'll know pricing for these within a few weeks

So are the protrack gears available now or still in development? Either way sounds good

Haven't heard anything but planning in emailing for an update soon.

[macguyverjimny]

Can someone point to the the part number for a auto vvt transfer case?

Would really help thanx,

[austuff]

Can't answer your question mac~ but if you didn't know I remember someone saying on here that you can't identify from any numbers/stamps physically on the t-case.

I was worried when shopping for a used one as none of the wreckers I phoned were aware there was a difference between the manual and auto ones, and one thought I was 'dreaming' when I said I knew for sure there was a difference. Guess auto Jimny m13aa owners have to be especially careful they know what theyre getting when shopping for used t-cases from wreckers

Cheers

[shep]

I bought mine from a suzuki wrecker in Sydney and he new exactly what I wanted and why. However he then went on to tell me that the best engine conversion for my car was a g16 so maybe I was just lucky that I got what I wanted.

[macguyverjimny]

Im having trouble to source a auto vvt,

So i am investigating if i cant buy the different parts from suzuki and perhaps change my vvt transfer to an auto one.
After some research on parts catalogues, it seems that there are only about two or three parts that would needs replacing, namely a chain an input gear and output gear, so in othe words the chain and both sprocket gears , but i am first investigating,

So thank you guys, if anyone have experience on an auto vvt and know if its planatary gears for lowrange or helical please let me know

Thanx for an awesome thread Shep, alot of good info here,

[Jezza86]

Previously ive heard on here a new chain can be upwards of 700 bucks so be prepared to order the 27% tj gears for the same result cheaper and retain the thicker chain.

[shep]

Now done 15000km on the auto transfer with at least 8000 of that towing a heavy trailer. No issues with anything and still loving the gearing