[chris77]

I'm a bit slow but reading a couple of posts this morning it dawned on me that when most people here refer to a g16a they are talking about a carbed 1600 and refer to the injected motor as a g16b .

Now I understand a couple of comments a bit better Just thought I would share my revalation

Cheers
Chris

[christover1]

Just to confuse the issue, the low K import engine in my vit is a G16A injected.

[alien]

yeah, the A or B engine number doesn't actually clarify if its carby or efi... the real difference between A and B, is that the B has more webbing cast into it which makes it less prone to cracking.

But yes - its commonly accepted that g16a is carby and g16b is efi when someone refers to one or the other.

[henno]

alien wrote:

yeah, the A or B engine number doesn't actually clarify if its carby or efi... the real difference between A and B, is that the B has more webbing cast into it which makes it less prone to cracking.

But yes - its commonly accepted that g16a is carby and g16b is efi when someone refers to one or the other.

Sorry to hijack the thread and/or ask the obvious questions, but what designation (if any) is used to differentiate between the 8v and 16v engines? I always made the assumption that the g16a was the 8v and the g16b was the 16v, regardless of EFI. Is that still true and coincides with the casting differences across both? (i.e. the 16a is 8v and has less webbing, the 16b is 16v and has more webbing in all cases?)

[alien]

the A or B thing generally applies (like, 90% of the time).

[sideways]

For aussie motors G16a = 8v carby and G16b = 16v EFI.

It would seem overseas it's mostly the other way around.

[vit1990]

alien wrote:

the real difference between A and B, is that the B has more webbing cast into it which makes it less prone to cracking.

From reading the webs I haven't heard of a G16A cracking but lots of G16Bs

[Gwagensteve]

G16A 16V EFI motors are a bit of a nightmare. They have quite a few different parts to the Aus delivered G16B, and that makes things a bit of a hassle if you need to source parts.

As an example, the timing belt has a different tooth profile between the two motors, so that means the crank and cam pullies are different along with the belt itself.

Steve.

[Rhinoman]

Generally speaking (and Vitara only) the G16A 16V is the earlier version with the Denso EFI and the Volume Air Flow meter. The G16B was fitted to the later version with the Mitsubishi EFI system with a MAF. The G16A was used on 8V carb, 8V TBI and the 16V MPI models. The G16B was only used on the 16V models.
The G16As certainly do crack but usually only on the higher stressed 16V engine which is considerably less common.

[losfer]

i dont think it is limited to the just to 16v mpi , im pretty sure ive seen a g16a 16 valve spi on a awd swift.

[christover1]

My G16A import had Swift 4x4 written on it.
Was told by seller it would be a post 95 model.
My Vit LWB is 93 which had a B originally.

[Rhinoman]

losfer wrote:

i dont think it is limited to the just to 16v mpi , im pretty sure ive seen a g16a 16 valve spi on a awd swift.

That's quite possible. I meant Vitara only to mean that I don't know that much about other models, we only got a carb 1.6 AWD Swift over here.

[Wazz]

Pulled a g16a 16v from a 95 swb at pickapart today, Someone had a go at removing it then got scared

Ill pull it down to inspect it as it had a holey welch plug and compare with my g16b i got half apart atm.

[Reubs]

vit1990 wrote:

From reading the webs I haven't heard of a G16A cracking but lots of G16Bs

I've had:
G16a transplanted into my Sierra - cracked (actually 3 cracks!).
G16a bought from a SWB carby vitara bought as a spare - cracked.
G16a from 92 LWB EFI vitara (probably not original motor) which I wrecked - cracked.
G16a in my 92 SWB carby vitara - cracked.
G16b in my current 94 LWB vitara - cracked.

Some of those blocks were cracked in the rear above the starter, some in the front just behind the water pump and one in both places but all cracks were in the drivers side.

The cars which I daily drove had no more noticeable loss of coolant after a chem-i-weld treatment as per the instructions however.

[Wazz]

My g16a efi.... cracked Cylinder number 2 cylinder liner.

[jonno_racing]

Dam there a shitbox motor

[mazdaspater]

When did the Baleno motors with the coilpacks come out? Trying to find a wreck with one but need to know when they came out.

[Gwagensteve]

There's two variants of coil pack motor.

One has the coil packs separate to the plug leads. The coil packs are mounted to the back end of the cylinder head, near the cam angle sensor

The other has the coils on the rocker cover, as per Jimny.

The first type seems to be pre 2000, the coil-on-plug version definitely from 2000 on, although some are earlier.

I'm not sure there's a hard changeover date. Always buy with a photo.

Steve.

[rayzooker]

G'day all, I'm new to the forum and have just found this thread. I have just bought a Jap import G16A (Japanese designation) 16valve MPI to replace the G16B (compliance plate in engine bay) in my 93 LWB Vitara, do I need to be concerned about all this talk about cracking? I guess, since I have outlaid the money and since my donk is in serious need of an overhaul, I'll go ahead with the swap anyway but is there anywhere I need to look specifically to check for cracks? And should I do a chemiweld treatment straight up?

On another note, the import engine has a couple of slight differences, mostly due to the Japanese emission regulations, I guess, but also the possibility that it is a later year. There is an extra hose from the intake manifold across to the air box that I don't have on mine, does anyone know if I can just block that hose off? I can post photos if I can work out how to do that, I'll see how I go.

Thanks for any help, Ray.

PS As you can see (hopefully) I worked out how to attach the files which should be self-explanatory; first pic is my current engine, other two pics show new engine intake with hose etc. So, can I just block it off or would it be better/easier to swap intakes? Thanks again.

[christover1]

I swapped everything off my Vit engine onto the import.
Was easiest way to get everything right.
I also replaced all the welsh plugs, water pump, etc to help prevent future crackings.
I personally think the crackings are just 20 year motors past their prime.
I hope.

[rayzooker]

Thanks Christover, I was wondering if I should do that and I'll probably take your advice, cheers,

Ray

[chris77]

The generally accepted reason they crack on this side of the ditch is put down to the exhaust manifold being a double walled tube and the inside tube buckling and blocking the pipe . Most import vitara's run aftermarket exhaust and manifolds . There were pic's on the next back in the day of a sectioned pipe showing what it did . Still the internet , what do you believe ...

Cheers
Chris

[Gwagensteve]

Cracks above the starter are definitely a G16A thing.

As for G16B's, I like the idea that the exhaust manifold can contribute to head cracking. There's photos of the broken double walled engine tubes from my G16B donor, however, there have been a few cracked blocks between the cylinders. Not sure how the manifold could contribute to that.

Overheating them does no favours though, I can tell you that from bitter experience.

Steve.

[rayzooker]

G'day all, I've just got my Suzi back from getting the heart transplant, going good now! Turns out that they just swapped most things over from the old donk and it started first time too, thanks to all who offered help and opinions.

Now for a new question: is it worth a dose of chemiweld before anything can go awry?

[christover1]

Chemiweld is great for an emergency fix in the bush.
But even though they claim it won't block anything up, I have my doubts.
It kept my dying engine alive for an extra year.
I personally wouldn't use it in a good engine.
I have no tech to back up my opinions, though.

[rayzooker]

christover1 wrote:

Chemiweld is great for an emergency fix in the bush.
But even though they claim it won't block anything up, I have my doubts.
It kept my dying engine alive for an extra year.
I personally wouldn't use it in a good engine.
I have no tech to back up my opinions, though.

Thanks Christover, sorry to be so long in replying, got distracted by some urgent stuff.

Ok, so until I hear some compelling advice to counter your good advice I'll not put any in my engine, thanks for getting back to me,

Ray

[Wazz]

So another question, Got another spare engine from a 97 vitara. The engine number states a g16b but there is still g16A on the backside of the block ?

[bristlenose2008]

Reubs wrote:

vit1990 wrote:

From reading the webs I haven't heard of a G16A cracking but lots of G16Bs

I've had:
G16a transplanted into my Sierra - cracked (actually 3 cracks!).
G16a bought from a SWB carby vitara bought as a spare - cracked.
#######

ditto , I've returned several blocks to the Suzuki wreckers when I pulled them apart and they were cracked on the internal walls.
They were all Imported low km 16valve G16A motors with distributors. Had I not pulled them apart I probably wouldn't have ever known and it may have lasted many years to come.

[Rhinoman]

Wazz wrote:

So another question, Got another spare engine from a 97 vitara. The engine number states a g16b but there is still g16A on the backside of the block ?

Someone in the US has just said the same thing, apparently a 97/98 engine.

[jonno_racing]

Gwagensteve wrote:

Cracks above the starter are definitely a G16A thing.


Steve.

Sorry steve but i had a B from a dizzy bal that was cracked above the starter and one of my best mates has a vit B and its cracked in the exact same spot. mine was also cracked in the head and in between cylinders