[[E-Z]]

Google yielded no accurate answer, does anybody know in cc how big the xl7 engine injectors are?
Thanks

[[E-Z]]

Bump, anyone have any ideas?

[klutched]

Probably be around the 300cc mark I'd say.

[[E-Z]]

Excellent. Maybe I should pull them off and get them cleaned and flowed to be sure.

[klutched]

What are you planning?

[[E-Z]]

low boost h27a turbo Xl7
S4 rx7 turbo, large ish rear for smooth boost (minimul shock) 10Psi
generic intercooler,
stock exhaust, 3 inch dump pipe.
fabricated J pipe from the stock manifolds
standard ecu and injectors, AFM before the turbo to read air flow.
should be good for atleast 250hp atw

[klutched]

Yes more boosted H Engines I'm tossing up between turboing the H27A and the H25a. There's not a lot of difference in them except the piston and crank apparently.

Do you know how much power the bottom end can handle? I'm looking for 300-350AWHP. Think I'll have to go forgies.

[henno]

klutched wrote:

Do you know how much power the driveline can handle?

[klutched]

henno wrote:

klutched wrote:

Do you know how much power the driveline can handle?

Not worried about the driveline. That will all be upgraded.

[[E-Z]]

IMO due to experience, most modern jap engines (1980-current) will handle 300hp with 350-400 reasonable to achieve standard bottom end, mind you this is on the limit and the tune would be what would give you longevity.
due to standard ECU and injectors, ill be limiting mine to wastegate pressure.
should be interesting!
IMO the h25a will suffice and would only upgrade to a h27a if your motor is dead,
good luck also.

[magnat]

How the heck do you fit it under the bonnet... there is hardly enough room for me to fit my hand down between the walls to get at the Oil filter let alone wack a custom header for a turbo ??

[[E-Z]]

Stock header, merged into an up pipe. Relocated battery. And turbo where the battery was

[magnat]

Stupid Question... but where did the battery go ?? (Dual Battery options seem possible if you relocated it)

[[E-Z]]

Boot, or under body, haven't decided yet

[GeckoXL7]

the injectors are 240CC/Min

The ECU is quite adaptable once it learns it tends to stick with it until reset.

Non mod, i once worked out should be good for 7-9psi (intercooled)

I was looking at a supercharger.

My engine is running E85 and handles that well, running that with boost im sure that engine would handle that nicely.
I have a separate computer that adds around a extra 15% fuel by a second pulse directly after the ECU controlled Pulse.

[GeckoXL7]

Just my work out spread sheet with some data you may be interested in.

[[E-Z]]

Awesome Thankyou! Will read at home on a pc. 240cc is disappointing. Was hoping in the high 200s never mind. I have boosted stock rb30 injector and ecu engine with great results 240 hp atw, with 230cc injectors.
Yes I have notice the adaption on the ecu. When I have disconnected the battery, it will take a good hour or 2 of driving for it to idle correctly.

[GeckoXL7]

To quickly make it idle normal quickly you start the motor with foot down reving at around 2500rpm for 30seconds then slowly let your foot of to the point it almost stalls let the engine pick up the idle as it usually does automatically if it doesn't rev it up and slowly let the revs down again. Once it works out the idle and compensates its ok after.

[Abraxix]

is this for all aftermarket ECU's or even STANDARD??

cuz i'd be so keen on resetting the standard ECU - then letting it adapt to the way we drive around. only having owned the car for 4 days so far!!! - hehehehe....

OR at least -- where do you buy an aftermarket PETTY computer / chip? i kow they do mountain loads for turbo's anything for pettys??

[GeckoXL7]

Its for the Standard ECU.

I had looked around for after market chips and there is none as they cant squeeze anymore out of the ECU than it already does.

I did have a after market computer that supposedly reprograms the ECU on the fly by changing maps etc but it didn't really do anything only thing i did notice was a tad more torque, I cut the wires to it a while ago.

One thing i was looking at is changing the Air intake temp sensor to a more responsive GM or other type and moving it to before the throttle intake, and increasing the Timming slightly if i can undo the damn nut holding the CAM angle sensor.

If you reset your computer and do what i said will fix idle, then turn it of and restart immediately after and take it for a good thrash eg reving it out to 6500rpm between gears and also do engine braking by changing down gears. The ECU will relearn the MAP for the full ReV range and be quite responsive and very willing to redline every time. People are impressed when they see mine take of up a sand dune. usually get comments like it seems to have no shortage of power.

[GeckoXL7]

Oh for your Auto just take it for a thrashing bit hard to redline all gears but your transmission is also adaptive and the harder you drive the more responsive the trans gets too. XL-7 Trans computers are pretty complicated, has geforce sensor, angle sensor, and also locks the Torque converter in low range. It works very closely with the ECU

[MacDaddy]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

My engine is running E85 and handles that well, running that with boost im sure that engine would handle that nicely.

You use E85, ok, do you know the handbook says a Max of E10 ?

[[E-Z]]

the hand book also doesnt say to turbocharge it

[MacDaddy]

[E-Z] wrote:

the hand book also doesnt say to turbocharge it

That be true...

[GeckoXL7]

. It's been running e85 since 40,000 is now on 203000ks and not one issue with motor or fuel pump.

[MacDaddy]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

. It's been running e85 since 40,000 is now on 203000ks and not one issue with motor or fuel pump.

Well, there you go...

[Chop]

GeckoXL7 wrote:

. It's been running e85 since 40,000 is now on 203000ks and not one issue with motor or fuel pump.

Hard to start in 40 degree weather after hard driving? Split rear fuel hose?

[GeckoXL7]

Not related to fuel hard starting was the uni filter oil going on map sensor. Rear hose was from the hose being to tight and the clip rusting and cutting into the hose.

[Abraxix]

sorry so:

i can re-train the ECU in my new car to learn the way we drive and get better fuel economy....
how does one reset the ECU / computer to then take it driving and such to relear or does this do it by itself now we've bought the car it'll automatically adjust and adpat over a few months??

Si!!!

[GeckoXL7]

I found it can adapt to driving styles/ fuel types in around 10min, its quite quick. But overall around 150K is when things start adjusting completely and to modifications like exhaust etc or ECU Reset.

To reset the ECU you just disconnect the battery for 5min, but just make sure you got the radio security code if it has one.

When i first used E85 it took around 300k to iron out the flat spots usually when taking off. Now i can switch when ever with out noticing any difference apart from E85 does run better and standard fuel tends to make the engine idle low for the first minute.
But after a ECU reset E85 is still ok, might be sluggish for 10 or so minutes but relearns quicker that it did the first time.

The ECU seems to have alot of play room with what it can adjust the motor too eg Ignition Advance, Fuel injector pulse length.
Engine load seems to be limited at around 85% Cruising at 60 in 5th the engine is at 31%, accelerating flat out the engine is usually around 65-80%, i have never seen it get to around 90% even with a 970kg camper on the back.

Just out of interest this is the data you can get from the ECU (get more if Auto)



air-fuel ratio control feedback Close
air/fuel ratio control feedback BANK2 Close
engine load 31 %
water temperature 88 ℃
air/fuel ratio correction rate BANK1 7.0%
air/fuel ratio adaptation correction rate BANK1 20.3 %
air/fuel ratio correction rate BANK2 6.2%
air/fuel ratio adaptation correction rate BANK2 20.3 %
manifold absolute pressure 1913mmHg
engine speed 1641 rpm
vehicle speed 62 km/h
ignition time 34 deg BTDC
intake air temperature 42 ℃
air flow 13.95 g/sec
throttle opening 8 %
O2 sensor BANK1 0.12 V
O2 sensor BANK2 0.10 V
target idle speed 752 rpm
throttle sensor 1.00 V
fuel injection duration BANK1 5.52msec
fuel injection duration BANK2 5.52msec
barometric pressure 956 mmHg
ISC valve opening 51 %
ISC flow control 333 l/min
air/fuel ratio correction rate monitor BANK1 28.9 %
air/fuel ratio correction rate monitor BANK2 28.1 %
battery voltage 13.4 V
canister purge valve opening 47 %
EGR valve opening 28 %
fuel pump 0N
fuel cut 0FF Note: Fuel Cut gets activated when decelerating Fuel injectors switch off
A/C switch 0N
forward speed signal D-Range
idle speed switch 0FF
power steering switch 0FF
start switch 0FF
blower load signal Inputting
air compressor clutch 0FF
O2 sensor working condition BANK1 Active
O2 sensor working condition BANK2 Active
electrical operation load 0FF
stop light switch 0FF