[killazook]

hey guys i have a couple of questions about the virtual lift its more just double checking that what i have read and the way i have understood it is right.
is this the section that gets cut out and gives you more clearance for the bigger tyres


And after i have removed the flare mount i will practically making this section in line with the highest part of the wheel arch


and this here is another example i hope i have understood it correctly

[tanshi]

pretty much

[just_cruizin]

Yes however it's not exactly that easy. As the inner guard is pressed its quite a bit of work especially without making a mess of the outer skin

[Blkfxx]

You'll also want to drill out the spot welds that hold the flare bracket on if you plan to use the stock flares.

EDIT: Never mind me, Just read you are already planning to do so.

[killazook]

Hey guys thanks for your replies so far and its ok Blkfxx i was wondering how i was gonna get them off with out making a mess and drilling seems to be the go

And Thanks for the heads up just_cruizin

After i have done this mod will 31s on 15x7s with -13 off set fit without scrubbing at all

will be running the ruf as well

[just_cruizin]

I take it you're not running a body lift. With a virtual lift and 2" body lift I run 35's with no issues - yet

[killazook]

Im not keen on a body lift because i would like to keep my COG as low as possible and so im keen to get it all done now cause it should be fairly capable yet good onroad

so is that where the tyres normally hit and i have had a zook (parts car) on 32x10.5x15 and it had a lot of bashing done to the wheel arches and on full lock the tyres would rub on the leaves will this be the case with the 31s on -13 offset or do i need more offset sorry for all these nooby questions i really want to get it right first go and i know you guys are the ones to talk to.

[just_cruizin]

Neg 13 on what? 7 or 8's.

I would say yes it'll scrub. Get some -24's it'll miss the springs but hit the firewall.

Really comes to how good you what the vehicle to look. Not bothered by looks, cut and bash away.

[Blkfxx]

just_cruizin wrote:

Neg 13 on what? 7 or 8's.

killazook wrote:

After i have done this mod will 31s on 15x7s with -13 off set fit without scrubbing at all

[tanshi]

NT the front spring spacing while your doing the RUF and your tyres shouldnt rub on the springs

[killazook]

Oh ok does that mean both front and back leaf hangers have to be moved in and spring mounts on the diff have to be moved in as well

[Blkfxx]

That's exactly it.

[killazook]

Far out thats sounds like a fair bit of work. Is it worth all that work to stop the tyres from scrubbing and how will nt spacing affect flex and how far do I have to move all the hangers for nt spacing I know noob question but I havent looked under a nt zook yet

[Blkfxx]

Bogfrog made this guide - http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=5293
That sorts the diff side of things.

And have a look at neofitou's current build thread, He is swapping from WT spacing to NT. Will give you a good idea on what needs to be done. http://auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=39049

NT spacing will make the car flex 'easier' since there is more leverage on the springs.

[just_cruizin]

and you will need to push the fire wall back a bit in the wheel arches. A lot of work to save the small amount your COG will go up with a body lift. It's a soft top WT so COG would go up about 10mm with a body lift. Body, seats and dash would weight about 150kg being conservatively heavy add you and 'stuff' 120kg so that 270kg of the probably 1300kg the thing weighs ie about 1/5

[killazook]

Its starting to look that way but I am still keen to give it a crack. ive got the gear, time and money so may as well. And thanks for everyones input so far very much appreciated.

[just_cruizin]

If you can do it go for it. I learnt heaps doing mine.

[Teracis]

I am half way through my second go at this. Make sure you are keen before you start, I've been ready to gas axe the whole thing down the middle and load it into a scrap bin more than once.

I did a lot of the welding on the first go and it came up looking shit, I still had a heap of rust repairs and floor to put back in (was gone before I got it) and I got a second body that came up on here cheap and nearly rust free. That's currently at my old man's work as of yesterday so we can work on it after hours and on the weekend. They will do much better welds than me, the panels are VERY thin and it takes time.

Completely doable though and I put a 33 x 10.5 r15 in one of the completed guards at the rear and it basically takes up the whole guard, i.e. the opening at the bottom is around 860mm, the 33 is around 825mm. Keep in mind that's just holding it up into the wheel well to see what the fit was like, as in, will it scrub one point or all the way around, kind of all the way around. This is however as I said, holding the wheel up into the guard, when it's mounted on the axle, with the body sitting hard on the chassis (no rubber or bodylift at all) there was HEAPS of clearance, let alone with the standard rubber blocks or the extra 50mm from the body lift.

Money to do the guard chop isn't that much if you're doing it yourself and you're not paying for cutting wheels, even if you were, maybe $200 all up including $50 for a sheet of steel, $50 for a 0.6mm roll of wire for the mig, a bunch of cutting wheels and paint. Assuming you're not factoring in the gas and you own a mig and don't cost your time.

Enjoy the process. If you want progress pictures and ideas, my build thread has a link to a bodywork album in which I tried to take pictures of all the parts I wasn't sure about before I started, specifically for someone like yourself to get an idea from.

Here is the link: Daisy
Bottom of the second page should have a link to the bodywork album.