[goose46]

I have been searching tirelessly for a few days to weigh up the options for my 94 sierra. I've read all the pros and cons of SPOA and SPUA, RUF in all its variations and missing link/ladder/drop shackles. All mods I've been aware of for some time but never had any experience with as this is the first ZOOK I've owned. I love the little thing but it seems that Modding them is more complicated then the GQ SWB ute I loved to death before selling to my mate to use as a trailer rig after it ran out of rego. My question is about the Rocky Road bolt on RUF kit which features a bracket on the rear spring mount which essentially moves the mount back and includes gear to relocate the diff to stock position as long as you use Zook rear springs. It costs $80 US and the shipping is minimum $152 which is ridiculous considering I could make the bracket myself very easily, I just don't know how to relocate the diff. I know Rocky road have a crap reputation but all the other kits I've seen use drop shackles and I'm not keen on running whacky shackles, especially in the front. SO DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW I CAN GET HOLD OF PREFABBED BRACKETS CHEAPER OR IF I MAKE THEM MYSELF HOW DO I RELOCATE THE DIFF TO STOCK POSITION? Be nice please

[tanshi]

Dont bolt on your ruf. Cut relocate and weld. Its the best way

[goose46]

SO........... are you talking chassis extension or just about cutting the rear mount and moving it? If I cut, relocate and weld the rear mount I still have to relocate the diff. Either way I decide to go if someone could help me with the diff relocation that would be very much appreciated.

[Blkfxx]

Redrilling the spring plates and perches will allow you to move the diff back.

[goose46]

thanks

[alien]

Moph on here did a bolt on RUF i believe?

[tanshi]

not saying it cant be done. but its legal, at least in queensland, to do it properly so why not.

[neofitou]

x2 for Do it properly.
If you've only just got the car, drive it for longer and look at the terrain your driving and also go to a NBS or NSW/VIC Club meeting or some trips with folk from here and talk to people there before choosing your modifications.
There is a few ways to do RUF, so seeing it on actual cars will help you visualise what to do and what you get out of it.

From your reading, you probably also found out about the Narrow Track (NT) vs Wide Track (WT) positions, you have a wide track of course.
You don't need to make sure its in the stock position, but if it moves forward more than about 20mm the steering can start to bind on its self, if your using stock springs this shouldn't be an issue, or you can redrill the rear hanger as above.

My previous Sierra was already a NT so when I did by RUF I only moved the front hangers, but did an engineer spec chassis extension, new stronger front cross member and Power Steering (also further forward than stock) at the same time.
I only used the the stock OEM rears at the front, in the end I got 90mm more droop, I was planing on longer springs later, I would have got much more travel with but then sold it and came here.

My current build I've moved everything to the NT positions and am using Old Man Emu Rears all round, I also moved my rear hangers back a little to stop the steering binding.

[rob45x]

Ive done ruf on my wt
Redrilled the rear perches back and used ome rears up front
Also running 2 inch extended shackles at the front
Great flex but I get alot of bump steer. Every hole I hit it wants to pull
Might be a castor
Just havnt got around to put it on the wheel aligner

[shiv]

i had to 2" extended shackls on the rear of mine after the ruf cause the front was 50mm higher for some reason

[Teracis]

I haven't finished mine yet but I had a wrecked chassis which I chopped the steel from to do the RUF, it looks like it will be a lot of work but given we had all the correct measurements (obtained from A.Z.) it was really quick and easy to actually fabricate.

Chock up the front and undo the shackles and jack it up further to drop the springs away, chop off the spring perches, weld on the extension, weld on the spring perches, bolt the shackles back on and then do the same on the rear which only requires perches to be moved, no chassis extension. The plates to strengthen the front will be combined strengthening plates and bar mounting plates and also tied in to the heavy walled pipe we hammered through the front cross member ala shep and ball's super strong front bar mount technique.

tldr: Do it properly.

[SierraDan]

I did mine in 3hrs drive in drive out.

Got some RHS and 6mm plate. Pulled the diff out with springs attached. Cut off the shackle mounts. Welded on the rhs extension. Welded some 6mm plate under the lot. Then bolted on the main leaf of the new springs and setup the shackle mount location and shackle angles. Put the diff back in, made new offset/extended bumpstops. Drove it.

[N.T.]

Just curious, whats the downsides to just having extended shackles up front, putting rear leaves up front by redrilling the spring perches top and bottom without cutting , moving or welding anything. It just makes your shackles lay further forward. Mines a LWB WT if that makes a difference.

[Teracis]

Afaik you can get a proper ruf engineered but not extended shackles so that's the first reason.

[tanshi]

extended shackles tend top ruin your approach agle.
they are illegal
and you dont need them.

[Gwagensteve]

And they screw with caster and increase steering play.

Steve

[rob45x]

I had to run 2 inch shackals on the front after I done ruf because it was too low
I only drilled rear perch back
if I do proper ruf with extending chassis will I still need the 2 inch shackals? Cause my steering sucks

[Gwagensteve]

It's up to you- you can set it up for any shackle length.

Steve

[rob45x]

Ah ok. I guess all depends on length of springs etc
I wana run standard shackals so if I end up doing a chassis extension one day I'll do that
how much extension do most ppl give their chassis. 4 or 5 inches? Or is that too much?

[tanshi]

way too much.

you can get away with 1-2 inches