[31zook]

Hey these may be simple questions but it just what i need answered, ill try to not be a dick in my own thread this time...

I'm over the carby and its going to a shop to get tuned now, now i wish to paint over all the bog and primer. How far down does the car need to be stripped? does all the paint need to come off or do i just need to sand the original paint to get it rough so the primer will stick?

I know you need to apply wax and grease remover to get it clean, and that painting outside is rubbish with all the bugs and dust. so I'm going to get a marque sticky tape it to the floor at work and plug an extractor on it.

What type of guns would you recommend, i heard from real spray painters that the gravity fed guns are the best? (i already have a decent compressor).

[want33s]

The more bits you strip off the car the better the overall finish will be but you can get away with taping a lot.

Not all the paint has to come off, just give it a good scuff. Feather in all edges.
Buy a tin of prepsol and some 'tack rags' for pre paint wipedown.

Your marquee idea sounds ok.. If you just seal it and run an extractor fan you'll cryovac the car in a plastic bag, you'll need a hole at the opposite end with a sheet or similar to let air in but no bugs etc.

Overhead guns are good but an underhead High Volume Low Pressure gun will work fine..
What type of paint will you be using?

[31zook]

Thanks for that it answered nearly all my quetion in one answer
Don't know, colour wise gun metal grey Ill be going to a automotive paint shop to see what they have. I would like to go 2pac, because i heard it is the hardest drying paint and wears the longest without fading, but i've been told it's the hardest paint to apply or at least setup.

[steve]

31zook wrote:

so I'm going to get a marque sticky tape it to the floor at work and plug an extractor on it.

that's pretty extreme for a Sierra

[31zook]

HAHA i want to have all things going for me... knowing my luck it'll look like a cricket board...

[ball]

Be very careful with an extractor fan. Most are not explosion proof and shouldn't be used in an environment with paint thinners.

You would be better off blowing into the room with filtered air and having it vent out.

If you do go the dangerous way make sure you film it for you tube

[31zook]

ball wrote:

Be very careful with an extractor fan. Most are not explosion proof and shouldn't be used in an environment with paint thinners.

You would be better off blowing into the room with filtered air and having it vent out.

If you do go the dangerous way make sure you film it for you tube

Hmm i have most of these items on hand atm... so im tempted to blow my self up...lol can you explain how to do this?

[atari4x4]

if it does go boom, you won't have to worry about putting it in an oven to bake it!

[ball]

Just turn your extractor fan around and blow into the room. You will need to have the fan drawing air through a piece of filter material.

Then all you need is a hole at the other end to let the air out. It helps to put a piece of filter over the exit hole to stop crap coming in when the fan is off.

If there are any panel shops around the area go and ask them if they have any of their old filters out of their booths.

If you want to go the way of explosions make sure you mount your camera on a tripod and secure it to the ground with some sandbags so it doesn't fall over

[31zook]

haha it will be the fastest bake you ever seen...lol

OK that's a good idea about turning it around... ill see if bunnings has any material that sort of fits the criteria, mostly because i don't know of any paint shop around ere...

[want33s]

Filter wool on the cheap can be the wadding used in doonas.. You can get it at Lincraft.

[31zook]

lincraft? Thats a shop right?

[paulv]

Lincraft = http://www.lincraft.com.au/
Spotlight = http://www.spotlight.com.au/

[31zook]

Im all set and ready to go now:D thanks everyone

[BAZZOOK]

I'd go the acrylic lacquer. use regular thinners not premium. I find premium thinners blead thru imperfections underneath. Wouldn't bother with a fan forced booth. just wear a face mask or you will be blowing black snot for a week. use good quality masking tape as cheap shit falls apart. If when you finish the job is a bit orange peely get some 1000 or 1200 wet and dry and rub back with water with a bit of dishwashing liquid in it.Wash, dry, Then buff with some cutters. I still use old fashioned lambswool. Small bugs disappear after the wet and dry. Two pac is harder as you get big runs and it takes a while to dry. also don.t paint when it's very cold as the paint blanches and has a white tinge.

[flexedup88]

small tip when doin home shed jobs earth the body to the ground to stop fluff n crap in the air sticking to the body, just use for example a metal garden stake and a jumper lead and jus clamp it to the chassis and the stake into the ground.small tip learnt at trade skool.

[DMAC]

ball wrote:

If you want to go the way of explosions make sure you mount your camera on a tripod and secure it to the ground with some sandbags so it doesn't fall over

A voice of experience by the sounds of it.

I used enamel on my bar work turned out OK and that's what I'll be using when I paint my zuk too. It's between acrylic and two pack.

Used a gravity fed gun with a 1.7 nozzle. R-77 from Trade tools for about $50. Sealing the marque is good idea. Wear a good quality mask with particle and fume filter unless you like pretty colours.

[xedent]

What paint did you end up using ? I did mine in enamel with hardener. Didn't know what i was buying either but turned out alright.

[31zook]

DANG bazook you know your stuff! So you wouldn't do a shed 2pac job... So whats this about acrylic lacquer? I've never heard of it before, is it more expensive and does it come up the same as the other methods? I would be happy to have a shine like xedent...mmm looks finished... wishes

[ajsr]

shed two pac job
its fine in a shed if its clean and you can get the inside temp between 15 - 25 deg c
* the trick to good two pac is to let it activtae properly before spraying.
* make sure the reducer and hardener speeds match what your doing.
* dont try and cover the car in one coat two pac needs a tac coat
* 3 coats is usually enough and works best out of a gravity feed gun with a tip size of 1.4 - 1.8
* on most two pacs 20 % reducer is the recommened amount but check before hand as too much thinner will run easily and the paint will tend to dull badly and too little will cause orange peal in the finished product.

not trying to stand on anyones toes but there is a lot of wrong or questionable bullshit in posts above
I was the victorian tech rep for wattle paints for a few years and also owned a panel shop for afew years as well PM me if you have questions and im happy to answer your tech questions

[2stroker]

As ajsr says good results can be achieved at home with 2 pack paint however you really do need to know what you are doing and have everything working in your favour. Bazook is right, I have done dozens of home paint jobs and touch ups in the shed or carport with no special equipment, I only ever use acrilic laquer, it drys so fast that you do not get bugs or contamination. Yes it needs to be buffed but when doing home paint jobs it is the easiest to use, any runs, orange peel etc can be wet and dry'd as Bazook says. Also touch up is so easy to do, it is less expensive than 2 pack and is readily available at any automotive paint store. Lots of cars were painted in Acrilic Laquer from the factory prior to 2 pack becoming widely used, I would not use enamel unless it is fast dry enamel and you are not to worried about the dust, bugs etc that will be with you forever. For an amatuer painter acrilic laquer is the way to go.

This is my mate Wayne's restored XUI, colour is original "Strike me Pink" painted in acrilic laquer in the shed at his house with no special equipment

[ajsr]

absoultely correct 2stroker
acrylic laquer was used on all aussie cars untill VR commodoe
and XF falcon
its the perfect paint for home use as its very forgiving and easily reworked if you fark up
its also the easiest to keep that showroom shine on if you look after it as it small marks are easliy buffed and polished out.
idealy an acrlic job comes up best if you leave it a couple of weeks to a month after painting before buffing as it hardens by the thinner evaporating out of the paint and this can take a couple of weeks to happen fully even though it touch dry in minutes

[31zook]

I thought about PM'n you but if im looking for help it's proberly nice to make all useful info avaliable...

Ok so with 2pac from what im learning its 3 different tin's of liquid. Paint, reducer and hardener? You need to do it in about 3+ coats, the more the merryer as long as its set before the next coat is applied. A gravity fed gun with a 1.4 tip is the go. But i don't understand (or heard of) activateing? And i sort of have an idea about hardener, but not reducer and what speed they need to be at???

[zookster666]

I painted this in the open on a dirt driveway with acrylic laquer and there is no bugs dirt dust or anything in the paint its really easy to paint with. Preperation is the key though i got lazy on the inside and it started to scratch really easy so i had to re do it all good now though.

[want33s]

Activating is simply the time you leave between mixing the paint/hardener/reducer and spraying... It is a chemical reaction like Araldite or bog.

If I were you I'd use acrylic, much easier for learners and easier to fix mistakes.
Below is a pic of my new Zook bonnet.. I got it primed last week but didn't have time to paint it until yesterday. It's acrylic painted in the open in the backyard in the morning... Yes it got a bug or two but after a 1200 rub and a buff in the afternoon its fine.
I'll give it a light hand polish with some "Swirl Remover" and it'll be nice.

[ajsr]

ok 31 activating is what happens when you mix it the hardener and paint together, you really should give it between 5 and 15 minutes before application for the chemical reaction to happen and ideally the paint wants to be around 20 deg c before spraying for the vicosity to be correct (two pac is ideally thinned by using a vicosity cup not a percentage of thinner).
two pac flows a little after application the speed of hardner dictates how fast it will remain viscous or liquid.
you can get hardners in slow (ideal for hot climates over 30 degc) normal(20 deg booth painting) fast (what i'd use for a shed jod also for single panel jobs) and extra fast or express (used for cold climate 10 - 15 deg or spot/single panel repairs)

reducer is used only to get the paint thickness to a level where it will ideally flow though the spray gun tip you are using.
the less you use the better in terms of shine and finish but if its too thick you will get orange peal.

I'd use a fast in a shed job and normal in a booth, the speed is how fast it evaporates out of the job

[ajsr]

and more is no better when it comes to auto paints
anyone seen crowsfooting in paint??
it happens a lot in european cars jags rangies etc.
its caused by too much paint.
in australia we have much greater extreames of climate and it causes the paint to shrink and expand a lot and causes crows feet.
ideally the correct paint thickness is as follows-
*Two pac solid three coats if covered or untill covered if that is five of more you have farked up and need a ground coat of another color first.
*two pac metalic base coat untill covered and then two- three coats of clear dependant on brand.
*Acrylic solid covered and then two coats to allow for rubbing and buffing,allow and extra coat if youve never done it before.
*acrylic metalic cover car and 4 - 5 coats of clear .

new cars have the equiv of 2 coats of twopac from the factory so more is NOT better

[31zook]

For a novice im thinking that an Acrilic is better. Oh ok that makes sense i wouldn't have thought about the movement in paint i guess it pays to do your reasearch Is there any brands people know of that are to steer clear of?

So if i was going for an acrylic job what would i need? This is what im thinking...
Grav fed gun with 1.4 tip
About 4L of paint (will it be enough)
A can of high fill primer (i heard that with 2pac you need a different type of primer does that relate to acrylic)
Apply about 3 coats, then wet and dry it. Buff it up and look at it

Im prepared to be way off with how simple that sounds, if i am i would like to be corrected.

[ajsr]

you will find that a suction gun (pot underneath) is a lot more forgiving with acrylic as most gravity guns are actually specd for two pac and the tip is too small.
1.8 - 2.0 is a good size for acrylic top coats remember covered plus 3 coats so maybe 6-7 coats. a gun with a 2.0 tip will do 2 pac primer as well and the advantage of a suction gun is you can mix in the pot so no need for mixing cans. but if you are mixing top coat for a respray mix all the paint you will use in one batch if possible as it will all be the same viscosity and temp.
brand of paint?? well how much do you wish to spend?
dulux wattle standox all good although you may no be able to get acrylic easliy in these brands any more any know brands will be good as they spend a lot of money developing these paints.
where ever you get the paint from ask them for a data sheet for that brand and follow if all paint makers put them out as not all paints are applied the same.
two pack primer filler is a good start as it generally gives the laest hassles if you apply it properly and will acept any availabl top coat type

[31zook]

Are you talking about a pot attached to the gun by a hose or a pot screwed to the bottom of the gun? If i wanted an acrylic gun metal grey job, do i need to put down another colour underneath it to make it come out properly? Im not sure about paint mixing but have heard that there is a drip test. Take stick (clean) dip it in and count the drips in 30seconds... or something like that it's more as a general rule of thumb but i could never figure out how many drips i need. Or could i just get the shop i buy the paint off to mix it up so i can just spray it on? Or does it need to happen within a couple of hours of applying?