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Post Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 12:44 pm 
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Hey all just wondering is anyone has ran a set of 35s on stock diff ratios using 6.5 transfer gears?

After Chrissy I'm up for a new set of tyres.... Not sure weather to stay with 34s or go 35s.. More 35s to choose from...

But am thinking I will have to run vitara ring an pinion to pick up some low range?

Cheers guys

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 2:05 pm 
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Cant be much worse then 34's can it?

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 2:52 pm 
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Depends... I reckon a lot 35s would measure bigger? I had 35s on my old 4x4 and they just looked way bigger then my 34s! Haha

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 3:58 pm 
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You probably wouldn't notice it, unless you're going from some worn out 34s that actually measure 31-32" to a large 35 then it'l have virtually no effect.

Either way, 35s and 6.5s will be geared 12% to high in high range, if you care about your high range. That's like running a 29.5" tyre with no gearing. Obviously your low range will be a lot better than stock.

Stick the 4.5s from low range in it. They'l be 22% lower than stock WT gears, stronger and awesomer.

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 5:09 pm 
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in run 35's with 4:1 transfer and stock 3.9 diffs. but i do have a 3spd auto. so yes it can be done

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Post Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 5:59 pm 
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I already got the 6.5s! So don't have to worry about that! Haha

Not real fussed about high range with the 34s I only use 2wd and low range as 4 high I find useless...

My 34s are fair rooted now! I reckon they would measure in about 33ish...

Guess there is only one way to find out! Haha

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Location: chch new zealand
Vehicle: Sj413k,35" silverstones

Post Posted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 6:03 am 
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I run 35" silverstones with standard 3.9s in the diff and 6.5s find it works perfect.. Mind you im over here in nz so our terrain is a little different to over in aus...I'll often be driving round in 4-5th and hill climbs an bog holes it's 2-3rd for the small amount of rocks I have around to play on 1st is perfect..

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 7:49 am 
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Do it Nath - you know you want to

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 12:57 pm 
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Albie I'm doing that now anyway! Haha so I guess it should be sweet! Are you running chromo rear axels?

And Andy I do want to! But that's bloody big rubber on a little car! Haha

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Post Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 9:20 pm 
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it will be fine
mine runs 6.5 and standard diffs

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 5:24 am 
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You running 35s now? Do you fun much difference between the 34" swampers and a 35?

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 8:08 am 
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The trolley tug ran 35.5" measured on stock diff gears with 6.5:1 Rockhopper series 3 gears and a clapped 1.3

It was slow on the road (5th was pretty useless, as you'd expect) but absolutely fine off road except for the normal carby problems.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 9:04 am 
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However, you would be better off gearing the diffs as well. The trolley tug is crazy hard on transfer arms/mounts because all the reduction is in the transfer.

It's not as much the small increase in diameter, there's also an increase in weight and traction (on high traction surfaces) with the bigger tyres that adds load to the driveline.

You're going to get no joy out of 5th gear with stock diffs and 35's, even though low range will be fine, but if you put 4.6 diffs in the car, you'll have 3800 rpm cruising at 100 km/h, which will be pretty good for offsetting the weight and drag of the tyres, left etc.

Crawl goes from 88:1 to 109:1. 109:1 is pretty low, you won't use 1st low much, but it's still a useful gear.

The bigger problem after all this is your contention "you can get more tyres in 35 than 34" - well, maybe. I can really only think of three useful sierra tyres in either size. In 35" there's Krawlers, 35 12.5 LTBs, and 35 10.5 Silverstones. Other than that, there's really nothing worth running IMHO - radial "mud terrain" tyres are too stiff and have inadequate void to be useful in my opinion - there's no point swapping from a 34 LTB to a 35" Federal Couragia, for example, as what you gain in size you'll loose in traction and construction, with the radial having a much stiffer tread.

Obviously, Krawlers are massive, (as in heavy and wide) LTB's are hard to get.

Your rear axles are going to be on borrowed time. Again, it's not so much the diameter, as the weight and offset required to clear a 35. (Assuming you run the same rim offset all round) With a semifloat rear axle, increased offset adds leverage to the whole axleshaft, which is why we don't have a car in the club running 35's without a floater now.

By all accounts the cromo rear axles available are like cheese. Actually, they aren't like cheese per se, but the problem with the sierra rear axle isn't material choice for the axleshaft, but due its semifloating design. If the problem was purely torque, better material is likely to help, but add more torque, a tyre three times heavier than stock, 40% taller, and twice the width, and you're way beyond what can be achieved with a 1" thick shaft.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 10:39 am 
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Gwagensteve wrote:
The bigger problem after all this is your contention "you can get more tyres in 35 than 34" - well, maybe. I can really only think of three useful sierra tyres in either size. In 35" there's Krawlers, 35 12.5 LTBs, and 35 10.5 Silverstones. Other than that, there's really nothing worth running IMHO - radial "mud terrain" tyres are too stiff and have inadequate void to be useful in my opinion - there's no point swapping from a 34 LTB to a 35" Federal Couragia, for example, as what you gain in size you'll loose in traction and construction, with the radial having a much stiffer tread.

Obviously, Krawlers are massive, (as in heavy and wide) LTB's are hard to get.

35x12.5 Bias Creepy Crawlers ? My 38's grip well at very low pressures and without beadlocks.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 10:51 am 
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Yeah, maybe, I do reckon they are pretty stiff though. We have a car here in vic running 37 12.5's and they seem to work very well, but that car is heavy (60 series diffs) and runs them on 10" beadlocked rims. I don't like the way they crown on 8's. I don't think I'd run beadlocked 10's on suzuki based diffs, and it's not a road driven car, so maybe the compromises required to get them to work well mean they aren't an ideal choice for a road driven/suzuki diffed car.

A few of us have been giving them a lot more respect since we've seen the work though. I haven't seen them really work on greasy climbs though.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 11:16 am 
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Yer even on 10's mine crown pretty bad, but at around 3 psi they grip pretty well and for some reason Maxxis's seem to hold the rim well without the need for beadlocks from what I've seen. And yes my Lux diffs probably help in my case a little.

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Post Posted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 6:37 pm 
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Cheers gwagon makes a lot of sence!

I have 1 brand spanker 34" tsl here that if I can find 3 somewhere ill buy as my first option to check out!

After that they would be the silverstones in a 35....

The rear axel thing I have had mine out a few times and have been twisted so waiting for one to let go.... Got another set at home but once try are gone I'm guessing a floater rear end is the only option...

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