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Post Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 9:06 am 
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Hi guys,
If you do a axle seal on a jimmy does it look like this? the handbrake is also a lot worse (pulls right up does not much), but have just clocked over 21000K so might need pads too.
2 weeks ago
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Post Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 9:22 am 
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You'll definitely need pads. They'll be contaminated with gear oil.

Seal replacement is as per a Sierra - do a search on that - it's been covered heaps. I reckon it's a good time to replace the wheel bearings too.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:22 am 
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thanks steve. figured it had to be, that much oil, and the master cylinder is only down 10mm or so.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:27 am 
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Oh, I see, you were asking if it could be a wheel cylinder failure? Yes, definitely. how recently have you checked the condition of the linings/drums? They HATE mud and more than a couple of muddy day trips here in Vic will destroy set of linings.

If your drums and linings are worn you could be overextending the cylinder and it could leak. would also explain the wonky handbrake.

New linings in any case - brake fluid all over them will be about as bad as gear oil. Pull the drum and measure everything up. Looking at that it certainly could be the wheel cylinder that's the culprit rather than the axle seal.

Steve

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 12:14 pm 
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Jezza.

Put some oil on your fingers and smell it. Gear oil has an unmistakable smell. Brake fuid is thinner and does not have much of a smell. That should tell you which one it is but also pull off the drums and take a loook. The most common cause of a failed seal is a failed wheel bearing so while you have it off the ground check the bearings for movement and noise, compare both sides to get an idea of how they should feel. I am not sure if you have mud terrain tyres but if so the niose from these can be masking any bearing noise if you do have a failed bearing.

The hand brake not doing much is probably because the pads are oiled up but the additional movement of the hand brake lever could indicate worn pads.

Another tip is to replace both sides at the same time whether it be pads, wheel bearings or axle seals.

Mike

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 2:44 pm 
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ive ordered new shoes, and enough bearings to do both left and right.
i have never, ever maintained the drums and from what your saying i definitely should have been giving them more attention.
ill pull it apart when i get home and stick a photo on here see what you guys think. spare parts are airfreight only so will avoid pulling things appart too much untill they arrive.
cheers

Jeremy

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 2:56 pm 
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Jeremy

If you need to replace the bearings then you will also need the ABS tone rings and of course the axle seals. Removing the bearings from the axle without damaging the axle is a job for someone with experience so you if that is not you then take the axles to a workshop. They need to be pressed back on as well. Also check the wheel cylinders if they have been leaking for a while and extedned that far there could be damage to the seals but that should be cheap to fix with a new seal kit.

Let us know how you get on.

Mike

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 3:23 pm 
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If you haven't done rear brakes yet I'd say there's nothing left in there and it will be wheel cylinder failure.

Make rue you measure the drums up before you tip $$$ into linings, cylinder kits etc only to have the same thing happen in 6 months.

Steve.

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Post Posted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 4:55 pm 
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no ABS so that's no problemo.
99% of the time its been dry when im wheeling up here, but this wet its been nice and muddy so sounds like your onto it steve.
i will probably take it to toyota, but ill have to get in quick, theyll probably be booked out for a month or 2 after chrissie

home for 5 minutes and the car woman and dog are mia so there goes today's plans.

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:39 pm 
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Jezza

Just looked at your photos again and no ABS. So your is not a 2010 model then like your profile says? I thought the ABS was compulsory from some time in 2009.

Mike

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:49 pm 
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2010 Queensland only model. built very late 2009

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Post Posted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 7:15 pm 
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OK so there must have been different regulations for each state. Certainly in Vic ABS was mandatory on my 2009 model. Thanks for clarifying.

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 7:22 am 
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I thought abs was an ADR mandatory thing after 05-6ish???

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Post Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:52 pm 
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http://www.redbook.com.au/cars/research ... x=0&eapi=2
if that link works, note that the price when new is 3K lower than a interstate model because there is no ABS, electric windows or electric mirrors.
they run out EOY for 16990 drive away.
so yeh, queensland.

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