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Post Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 11:15 pm 
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looking at getting this http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271367451511&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

now off a few wiring diagrams i just run a (+) from battery to battery with the isolator in the middle. Earth everything individually, no (-) going from battery to battery.

What gauge/ size wire would i be looking at? something that has a high amperage?

Lastly an inverter.. to plug things into, match it or higher to my fridge wattage? as its going to be the largest drawing item? the fridge has a 12v cig plug but also normal power plug, also all my lights have your normal power plug.

any info would be good.


Last edited by Skippy on Wed Jan 15, 2014 12:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 11:44 pm 
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Buy a 12v fridge - you do NOT want to run a fridge off of an inverter.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 12:20 am 
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Edited..

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 6:20 am 
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If you can, skip the inverter - I have no idea what you mean by a "normal power plug" but if it involves normal utility AC power, you want to avoid it - for lighting you want LEDs (LEDs provide the most light "per watt" of power consumed) that get their power at 12V - wire size is going to be determined by the load you want to run, and not just by amperage - you need to minimize voltage drop also.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 7:21 am 
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Normal power plug as in the plug on say your kettle or toaster. The lights are the only thing that has that plug and the lights are those rope style lights.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 9:10 am 
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select a inverter to suit your lights, or replace the lights. you can get 10M of waterproof led light strip for under 30 bucks http://www.aliexpress.com/item/LED-stri ... 74914.html

if you can avoid using a inverter, your avoiding cost, wasted space and not to mention 240V electrical gear isnt typically designed to be used in a moving vehicle getting shaken up. inverters generate heat and thats wasted energy. 12 vlt is also dimable to save more power if you dont need additional brighness

the redarc is the best. my mate always has to use the override as his main battery is a few years old. very handy

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 11:19 am 
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Exactly what kind of fridge is it?

Is it a compressor style fridge that only runs on 12V

or a 3 way fridge that has 12V plug, a 240V plug and runs on LPG gas.

re reading your post is sounds like it is the second one? (3 way fridge)

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 5:43 pm 
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It's a 12V fridge essentially ( knock off waeco / engel ) but has a 240V adapter ( 12V female plug to a 240V plug with tranny / inverter in the middle) which i only use at home when i first start it up before i go away.

I think Jezza, i will just use my rope lights that have the 240V plug for when i am at powered sites and get some 12V LED stuff as you and Zukenutter said.

Also going to use a redarc SBI12 isolator, comes with the override switch as well and try not to mutilate the (+) on the stock battery that has the fuse on it too much, looks as though the cables are just nut & bolted onto the fuse.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 6:12 pm 
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i really, really rate the optima spiral cell batterys if you have the space for one. i have a 900CCA 75ah one in my boat. its amaizballz.
if your using a 12v to 240 volt inverter, your throwing 2-5% of your stored power out the window as heat, literally. 12 volt where you can, 240 if you cant live without it and its *only* avalible in 240v
like the idiots who take a thurmomix camping
*edit(vodkas fault)*

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 7:24 pm 
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i would like to get an optima battery, looked at one today but i don't have the $ just at them moment for one, too many god damn bills!!. Trying to get this put together and done before Easter. I spoke to Scales a long time ago and he was very happy with his century battery so I've been looking at the Century 68 as Scales has the Century 67 and i cant get them as easily as the 68.

Not bothering with inverters or anything just going to run 12V sockets and a volt / amp reader.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 8:07 pm 
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i actually have a 240 v inlet in the box behind the passenger's seat to run the fridge of my 15 amp lead, that way the fridge is pluged into both. fridge autoselects 240 even when its fed 12v aswwell.

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Post Posted: Wed Jan 15, 2014 10:19 pm 
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I'm running a 48amp/hr yellow top in the back of my jim on the same red arc unit. Cost me about $300 to setup.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:30 am 
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Is that price the isolator kit, andall your bits and pieces? seen a D34 at the shop when i was looking at batteries and they wanted $400 for it.

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:46 am 
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That was battery, isolator and a few bits and pieces... May have been slightly higher than $300

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:24 am 
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my setup is done the cheap way . second hand deep cycle battery , second hand heavy duty jumper leads ,new light duty jumper leads and new solenoid and fittings.
solenoid wired to ignition second battery wired to fused and switched rear cig lighter socket. about $130. not neat but has lasted 2yrs or so no problem.
Image

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 8:11 am 
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D34 $400 whut!
http://www.optima-batteries.com.au/
289 with free shipping on a D34/78 (http://www.optima-batteries.com.au/opti ... d3478.html)
http://www.optima-batteries.com.au/opti ... p-d34.html

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Post Posted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 12:15 pm 
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Yea I think I might get one from dank

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