[alexvitara]

Been watching the build for a while now and its looking good, I like the fact that its all been done for not much coin.

can you take the draw bar right through to the front of what used to be the box? that would add plenty of strength to it.

[christover1]

alexvitara wrote:

Been watching the build for a while now and its looking good, I like the fact that its all been done for not much coin.

can you take the draw bar right through to the front of what used to be the box? that would add plenty of strength to it.

I can, and I have been thinking about doing that.
Less strain on welded joints.
Was worried about extra weight, but could only be a few kilos.
But it could lower cog, too.
Todays measure up and thinking, including making sure my Vit rear door opens fully,
so by pay day will know what length box to buy..

[zukenutter]

x 2 on extending the bar. Moves the stress point and shares the weight.

[christover1]

Done me measuring, it is not going to add much length/weight to the bar, so it will be going through to the front of original chassis.
I measured the rear swing on the Vit, to make sure it will still open fully, on most angles.
All up only added 800mm to the bar, which won't weigh much.
I don't have the right rods, so no welding till after pay day.
Do a bit of grinding and cutting today, before it gets any hotter.
Then its Youtube videos and air con day

[christover1]

Got a tiny bit done, before my garage turned into an oven.
Have to wait for pay day and cooler weather, now, so catch up on some non camper jobs inside..
Piece of box I'll be adding measures 175cm
This will take it back to the original chassis, and give enough room to jack knife trailer without hitting the car.
Also plenty of room to swing the Vitaras rear door fully open, even when not dead straight.
Looks a bit longer than I pictured in my mind, but still fits in garage.

[missmyljdaze]

it wouldnt be hard to make that drawbar detachable for easier storing in your shed.......

stephen

[christover1]

missmyljdaze wrote:

it wouldnt be hard to make that drawbar detachable for easier storing in your shed.......

stephen

Had that thought, but decided to keep it simple, as it does fit.

Will measure everything again, before buying or cutting the box section,
as I want the draw bar as short as possible, but still be safe.

[christover1]

Another day of measurings, and sizing thinkings.
This is what I have decided upon.
Wanted to keep draw bar length from the new body about the same as it was on the original trailer body,
because that worked so well for many years.
Will be going thru to chassis front cross member.
Sticking with 50 x 50 x 5mm box, for easier construction and lighter weight.
Owners of big trailers kept putting bigger bars in my mind, but I Zooked it out of my head
I believe at only 750mm protruding it should be ok.

[zukenutter]

Tick, could always brace it if need be but 5mm should be strong enough. Do you have a total weight idea yet?

[christover1]

zukenutter wrote:

Tick, could always brace it if need be but 5mm should be strong enough. Do you have a total weight idea yet?

Stuff I have weighed so far has added up to less than what I took off original trailer.
But haven't weighed everything.
Original set up with tent weighed around 300kg.
I removed 110kg from trailer in stripping.
I reckon I have added about the same up till now.
My Vits allowed to tow 450kg unbraked, or 680kg braked.
But sincerely hoping to keep it under 400kg.
I will weigh bridge it when finished, to see if I need to alter compliance plate or rego details.

[christover1]

In my searchings I found 50 x 50 also comes in 6mm, could be an idea.

[zukenutter]

How heavy is the ball weight? Roughly.

[christover1]

zukenutter wrote:

How heavy is the ball weight? Roughly.

I broke my old bathroom scales measuring that on the old trailer
Can't remember what it was, but wasn't much.
Will measure that when its done, but I can adjust weights if needed.
IE position of any add ons, or even load positioning.
Will have to look up recommended ball weight.

[missmyljdaze]

Most bathroom scales are rated to take 150kg, and can be used to estimate weight of empty trailers, so I dunno how you broke the scales!

Put each wheel on a paving brick or block of wood that is close to the same height as the scales, then prop up the drawbar so it is level.

Jack up a wheel, remove brick [or block] and place scales underneath, [b]very slowly[/b], lower the wheel onto the scales and watch its reading-being ready to stop- just in case you overload the scales.
When the scale has all the weight- record its reading.

Jack it back up, place paver / block back under the wheel and repeat for the other side.

Then follow the same procedure for the tow hitch, and add all 3 figures for your total weight.

To reduce the load on your scales, you can temporarily remove stuff- like your loose floorboards, as you can weigh them seperately.

If you have 2 sets of scales- you can put them next to each other with a board over them, then zero the scales before lowering the wheel onto the pair of scales, this halves the weight on each scale.
Add the 2 readings for a figure.

I have done this a couple of times over the years- and been within 2 or 3 kg of what the weighbridge later said.

A warning- best not to do if your missus is home or due to pull into the driveway while your trailer is on the scales- and make sure there is no traces of muddy tyre prints on the scales either - or it will get very noisy [or frostily quiet....] this can only be fixed if you buy new scales and expensive dinners and chocolates and stays in fancy hotels and stuff.

[sandwichmaker collects hotel stays pretty regularly]

stephen

[christover1]

Fortunately I am single,
allowing me to bring work into the house when needed,
and allowing the use of household equipment, pot, pans and stuff for more important uses

Quote:

carefully lower

I didn't put any load spreading plate on scales, and also dropped trailer jockey wheel onto it too hard
It bent concave in the middle, and mucked up its already poor accuracy.

Present scales are cheap glass ones, so can risk it,
but too awkward at the moment, so will weigh it when its easier to move around.

[christover1]

As a guide, I weigh 97kg. If I sit in the back without a support leg, it flips the front into the air.
Found this out the hard way.
Old trailer had no overhang on the rear, so I developed a false sense of security.

[zukenutter]

A couple of questions

Are you including a water tank anywhere
Are you installing rear supports for when it's at camp

No reason, just wondering

[christover1]

Water tank may be a future addition under the front head end of bed,
have left room for future plumbings if needed,
but for now I will carry boxes of water under there.

It will only need rear support leg/s if not connected to the Vit.
Rarely did I use the leg on my old set up.
So no hurry, but yes it will get something at some time.
Can still use original leg if needed, but it is now 400mm underneath the back end.

[christover1]

I read my owners manual.
It recommends ball weight to be approx. 10% of the total trailer weight.
But not over 50kg. So I have a figure to aim at.
Will post up all weights once I have them.

[christover1]

Real metal looks better than my photochop.
Happy with the length.
Fitting has to wait for cooler weather, I've run out of give a's.
It weighs 11kg ish by my highly accurate dodgy scales

[christover1]

Time to start work again, thank goodness it has cooled down.

This is the most likely colour scheme,
due to cost, availability and practicalities.

[zukenutter]

I'm jealous

[christover1]

I'll have to paint the Vit to match it

[zukenutter]

I'm a bit worried that the tread decal won't stick to the textured surface. The decals I have on my plastic panels peel away quite easily

[kenn]

Maybe a few coats of clear, from a spray can, might help.

[christover1]

Could be an issue, no idea.
I can always make a stencil, and use the same paint I am using.
Or try one before buying too many.
Or just think of a plan C or D

[christover1]

I forgot how much I dislike welding and grinding.
Thinking this is why I put the draw bar extension off till now
I trust my welds will hold up, but they never look very pretty.
Still going with hi tensile bolts as a back up.
With glue/sealer to help keep moisture out of joints where paint won't reach.
There will be no close up photos of welds

[zukenutter]

christover1 wrote:

There will be no close up photos of welds

You'll never see a close up of mine too.

Just splurged my M15A money on a new welder

[christover1]

Got the safety chains on.
I made the plate for the hitch bigger than needed.
Mainly to give me welding room for the chains, and for possible future hitch changes.
Hitch itself not welded yet, busted off the grease nipple somehow, so had to fix that.

[christover1]

I did a rough weighing of the ball weight.
Scales said 38kg in its present position.
I am happy with that.

I lashed out on dearer rods than usual, cigweld, it made a big difference.
Still can't weld, but it was much easier than when I last used ozito rods.