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Joined: Fri Mar 08, 2013 11:20 am
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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:33 am 
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All,
Am getting to that point of my build where I'm fitting a second battery (optima d34 yellow top) and now comes the question of the isolator.
I have done my homework and read through the posts.
I think I want a kit rather than the just the Isolator - but feel free to try and change my mind.

Based on what I found on people's builds and posts, here's some choice:
traxide SC80-CB 150$ http://www.traxide.com.au/isolators/sc8 ... ndard.html
Redarc sbi12 kit 351.80 $ http://www.redarc.com.au/products/produ ... g-kit-12v/
Redarc kit 235$ on ebay
Redarc sbi12 isolator only 180$ http://www.redarc.com.au/products/produ ... i_12v_100a
jaycar kit - 139$ http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MB3686
Projecta kit (SCA) 149$ http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... pid=292797
Revolution kit (ebay 105)
ABR Sidewinder kit 145$ http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page166a.html

rotronics was also mentioned but their website is total crap.

I am NOT keen on 350$ for an isolator kit, no matter how awesome redarc is. I'll be running a fridge for a couple days, that's it.

The Projecta and ABR kits have my interest.

What do you guys use, recommend for or against ?
Please keep it constructive :)

Cheers

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:41 am 
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i use a solenoid switched off my ignition because i am cheap.
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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 12:10 pm 
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I have abr. Love it. I like the option to be able to link the 2 batteries together if the starter went flat for watever reason by just flicking a switch.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 12:34 pm 
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zooks4life wrote:
I have abr. Love it. I like the option to be able to link the 2 batteries together if the starter went flat for watever reason by just flicking a switch.


You can do the same with a $30 solenoid. :wink:

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Joined: Fri Mar 08, 2013 11:20 am
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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 1:15 pm 
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Laurie, yep I saw your build during my search.

shep wrote:
zooks4life wrote:
I have abr. Love it. I like the option to be able to link the 2 batteries together if the starter went flat for watever reason by just flicking a switch.


You can do the same with a $30 solenoid. :wink:


as a matter of fact, only 25$ at ABR http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page81.html - looks exactly the same as Laurie's
it's .. quite a bit cheaper than redarc.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 2:06 pm 
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^ i have one of these. its mounted next to my extractors, and havent had a problem even though it gets bloody hot

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 2:35 pm 
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Had a traxide. Was never happy with how it performed and it failed within a year. Supplier suggested it was a dry solder joint that I could fix myself, but I decided against it. Why should I need those kind of repairs on a commercial unit designed for reliability and improved redundancy?
Went with an abr and have had no issues.

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 8:07 pm 
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i have a redarc SBI12, it cost me 90bucks delivered..
does what i need it to.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SBI12-REDARC ... 0c2&_uhb=1

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 8:55 pm 
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^ me too... I had an abr and it failed... Water got into it and it was shorting to the body of my engine bay... Supposed to be waterproof.

The redarc has been faultless for the past 3 years, and I know quite a few guys running these as well that are very happy with them :)

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Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:10 pm 
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Go a redarc and don't bother with a kit.
Go to these guys if you can, if you ask nicely you can usually get a decent discount and they will have jugs and everything you need.
(I don't have any affiliation, its just a great shop for auto electrics)
http://www.ashdown-ingram.com.au/branch-locator

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 8:27 am 
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I have something similar to this mounted above the glove box in my vit http://www.bluesea.com/products/categor ... /HD-Series
Complete control

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 12:03 pm 
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If you want the cheapest way. Just connect this inline to your ignition. I don't know why people bother with fancy kits. The only way this could cause problems is you AUX battery is completely drained and you leave the ignition on for a while and the batteries equalize.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Relay-100A-1 ... 3cd8cd1a73

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 1:41 pm 
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Cool stuff here. thanks for your answers.

mud_muncher: at 25$ a solenoid, I like the cutover over a relay. Especially after having 20$ relays fail after being splashed by water.

If I can source some decent thick cables (someone suggested hitting the wreckers) I might go the ABR solenoid way rather than a kit.

pyrohamish: their catalog is wicked. I'd like to know the prices though. But they have choice !

[edited] typos

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 3:11 pm 
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The 4 gauge wire used for stereo amplifiers is plenty and easy enough to get, along with easy fuse fittings. It's what I run in mine and it works no dramas at all :)

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 3:34 pm 
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Where is the batt being mounted and do u have a winch
16mm2 cable with no winch
35mm2 with a winch and batt at the front
50mm2 with winch and batt at the back

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 3:35 pm 
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ebay redarc@90 (is that a fake ?? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SBI12-REDARC ... 0c2&_uhb=1) + fuses + amp cables + plugs/sockets

150$ :) -ish

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 3:37 pm 
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^^^ I had a bloke from tjm tell me they were. Only difference between mine and his... MINE had made in Australia written on the box ;)

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 4:05 pm 
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i have used the redarc SBI12 in my current zook, my mazda camper van, my jeep, my triton, my old mans hilux and his current bt50... all of them have been from ebay at $90... non of them have failed

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 4:06 pm 
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mud_muncher wrote:
If you want the cheapest way. Just connect this inline to your ignition. I don't know why people bother with fancy kits. The only way this could cause problems is you AUX battery is completely drained and you leave the ignition on for a while and the batteries equalize.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Relay-100A-1 ... 3cd8cd1a73



Do you have any more info on this? I wanted to hook duals up and rewire everything so it all ran off the deep cycle and only cranking was ever off of the crank batt. But then again I also wanted to be able to (rarely) start off of my deep cycle if cranking batt was flat...

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 4:22 pm 
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mud_muncher wrote:
If you want the cheapest way. Just connect this inline to your ignition. I don't know why people bother with fancy kits. The only way this could cause problems is you AUX battery is completely drained and you leave the ignition on for a while and the batteries equalize.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Relay-100A-1 ... 3cd8cd1a73



they bother with them to make sure there starting battery is always at a full charge state before their aux battery accepts charge, its a mighty big strain on a alt to charge two batteries that are both down on charge.

31zook wrote:

Do you have any more info on this? I wanted to hook duals up and rewire everything so it all ran off the deep cycle and only cranking was ever off of the crank batt. But then again I also wanted to be able to (rarely) start off of my deep cycle if cranking batt was flat...


i have the aux pull in wire on the smart solenoid wired in to my winch wiring and via a oil pressure switch so when winching with the engine running it draws power from both batteries, but if the engine is off(i.e. no oil pressure) it only draws from the aux battery, thus leaving my start battery fresh to start the car..

as for wiring in to be able to start off my aux battery, i didnt bother... i can manually override the smart solenoid to engage both batteries,(via a spring release button, so i cant accidentally leave it overrided. if i get a flat start battery i can just disconnect the earth of the start battery and then manually engage the smart solenoid, thus not allowing the flat start battery to pull current from the charged aux battery

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 4:42 pm 
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2 flat car batt shouldn't pull more then 50a charging so if u do a alternator up grade u will have plenty of power to charge 2 flat batt at once

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 5:58 pm 
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i have a 100amp alt, but i have always been in the "if you can be gentle on it, why not" camp
ramping a load compared to dumping it on is the difference between a push and a punch
either way will work
each to their own though.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:03 pm 
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mud_muncher wrote:
If you want the cheapest way. Just connect this inline to your ignition. I don't know why people bother with fancy kits. The only way this could cause problems is you AUX battery is completely drained and you leave the ignition on for a while and the batteries equalize.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Relay-100A-1 ... 3cd8cd1a73


Or when you crank on both batteries and fry the wiring and relay
Or when the main batt is flogged and you start starting on the aux without knowing
Or when the aux is stuffed and it steals just a little every time you crank and make it jsut a bit harder to start
Or you run around with too much load on and the batteries both drain and you don't know

Having a Voltage cutout point doesnt solve any of the problems with charing one battery first or charging batteries correctly but its a start
if you want to do it properly something like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CTEK-D250S-D ... 4e5&_uhb=1

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:37 pm 
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As Royce said....


I run a engle 45ltr, 2 USB ports and a camp led strip of my 2nd battery.
2nd battery is a sealed AMG thing at 100 amps or what ever the rating is........


CTek, keeps things charged and running well, I drive about 500 kms a week...... fridge runs at 2 degrees permanently, battery never goes any where close to low charge.


Only thing is CTek doesn't allow you to use 2nd battery for cranking the engine....

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:40 pm 
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gregwatkins75 wrote:

Only thing is CTek doesn't allow you to use 2nd battery for cranking the engine....



i'd imagine if you disconnected the crank battery earth, you could run jumper leads from your aux battery to the positive of the other battery and throw the earth onto the engine block

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:45 pm 
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pezz wrote:
gregwatkins75 wrote:

Only thing is CTek doesn't allow you to use 2nd battery for cranking the engine....



i'd imagine if you disconnected the crank battery earth, you could run jumper leads from your aux battery to the positive of the other battery and throw the earth onto the engine block



Yes you can if it comes down to it... I have my 2nd battery mounted in the boot as it suits my power needs better, and means only one power cord running from front to rear, the power cord powers the CTek..

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 7:48 pm 
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i guess if you found yourself in need of a self jump you could just remove the aux battery..
its alway nice to know you can do it

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 8:16 pm 
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My redarc is into its fourth year, 2nd vehicle. My fridge has been running non stop in the rear since the october long weekend.
Even with the 45 degree days and heatwaves we seem to be copping and not driving anywhere for a few days it hasn't missed a beat.

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Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 9:25 pm 
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Chop surely you've replaced the alternator ?

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Post Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 5:29 am 
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Why, when it works perfectly fine? Ive got two good batteries and the redarc takes care of the rest.

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